NB (99) Curiosities

(I have searched most of these, can't find any of the ones that AREN'T opinion based)

So... I bought a nice example of an NB this weekend (50k miles, original window sticker, original hardtop, pretty straight and rust free) and I have a few questions:

(I have owned three NA's, but this is my first NB)...

I will be driving this 3-4 days a week, mostly highway, but want it to be pretty comfortable in the twisties...

Passenger side window rolls down about 1/4-1/3 the way, then just stops... acts like it's getting bound on something... any ideas?

Any opinions on a good softtop? I am looking at the Robbins sunfast defroster glass seamless with a new rain rail, but if there's a better option for my ~$625, I want to know! on that note, any precautions here on install? (I will be doing it myself)

Sway bars... should I just go ahead and call up FM and order a set? is there a better/cheaper option?

The rear end acts like it has an LSD, but the VIN (called mazda) says otherwise...who's right here? (I did the grass/pavement test and it acted like a torsen)

Foamectomy on NB's: can I do this?

Good source for an OE front lip?

Is the little fabric pouch between the seats where the harness bar would go on a cage an OE peice?

I'm already shopping the parts to do actuators and a keyless system on it (<~$100)

any little NB specific tips/tricks?

I'm sure I will come up with more questions

As for the lip....

Either your dealer, or this guy will often have a big selection of NB trim stuff:

http://stores.ebay.com/Spare-used-Auto-parts/_i.html?_nkw=miata&submit=Search&_sid=9340991

Or Rev9 sells a good OE copy at a somewhat reasonable price.

You can do a foamectomy on an NB.

I'd get the FM bars, i haven't found a cheaper set anywhere.

Not sure what the fabric pouch is... i have a storage net on mine? Is that what you're talking about? In front of the wind blocker?

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: I'd get the FM bars, i haven't found a cheaper set anywhere. Not sure what the fabric pouch is... i have a storage net on mine? Is that what you're talking about? In front of the wind blocker?

FM Bars: Roger. I will make the order on payday

Fabric Pouch: yes, that's what I meant... I didn't realize that was a windblocker, does that mean I may have a more upfitted package that included the Torsen and I just didn't realize it?

Autolex wrote:

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: I'd get the FM bars, i haven't found a cheaper set anywhere. Not sure what the fabric pouch is... i have a storage net on mine? Is that what you're talking about? In front of the wind blocker?

FM Bars: Roger. I will make the order on payday Fabric Pouch: yes, that's what I meant... I didn't realize that was a windblocker, does that mean I may have a more upfitted package that included the Torsen and I just didn't realize it?

Well, you may not have a windblocker... I don't know. Is there a thing behind your seats that you can fold up or down?

I don't remember what package they came on, though. Thought it was with bose-equipped cars, but i could be wrong. I just bought a Mazdaspeed so i knew it had a limited slip diff of some sort.

I'm assuming it's the same problem as my NA the window cable is hooking on the bottom of the glass. I just zip-tied it out of the way. I've been really happy with the Robbins top I got...took a few hours to install, but it all fit and works great.

Wow, having one of those for 12 years now, I figured I may be able to help. But no- no questions that I've had to encounter.

Well, except I thought it was hard to get a '99 w/o the Torsion. Mine's pretty basic, yet has it.

Having owned a 99 for almost a year, I've got nothing. Except that you can do a Foamectomy. And I have and like the FM sways, although the rear sway makes an autocross course slippery.

spritedriver28 wrote: I'm assuming it's the same problem as my NA the window cable is hooking on the bottom of the glass. I just zip-tied it out of the way. I've been really happy with the Robbins top I got...took a few hours to install, but it all fit and works great.

Thanks! this actually sounds like the exact issue as the window tries to cant towards the frame right when it stops (indicating it is hung up on one side only; the rear end)

That is exactly what happened on my NA as well. The cable came out of the clip. I just took the panel off and snapped it back into the clip on the door.

99s like to light up the check engine light with an EGR code. Dont't replace anything. Just read the internet solutions.

I've had a 99 base edition for several years now. It has the check engine light on - reads exhaust ineffeciency. Doesn't affect how it runs. I'll have to do more research on what Otto stated. I have open diff since it's a base. Haven't had the window issue so no help. Mine has manual hand crank windows. And don't know what fabric pouch or storage net is and don't have wind blocker. It is a base after all. Plus one for the Robbins top, put a Robbins cloth top w/glass & defrost on mine. Don't know the price diffierence on the FM sway bars and the RB ones, I run a RB front and stock rear bar on mine.

I've owned my 99 since new -- 13 years now. :)

On the soft top, personally I'd probably stick with the OEM one. I dunno what they cost, mine's only been replaced once and that was under warranty (factory defect), the current top is 11 years old.

Sway bars, most of the "kits" out there have way too much rear bias for my taste. FM's kit is a 1" front and a 5/8" rear, that's a huge jump over the stock 11mm (or 12mm sport) rear. I like the 1" front with the 12mm sport or 14mm Mazdaspeed rear bar.

Mazda's probably right on the Torsen, unless the previous owner swapped it.

Random NB stuff -- if you have the factory stereo unit with the CD player and tape deck, you can take the tape deck out and with a couple bucks in parts build an cable to use the tape deck input as a line in for an iPod. No charging or song title display, but it sounds much better than using a tape adapter.

EvanB wrote: That is exactly what happened on my NA as well. The cable came out of the clip. I just took the panel off and snapped it back into the clip on the door.

Fixed it last night and threw a zip tie on it to make sure it doesn't go anywhere... thanks everyone for this quick fix!

codrus wrote: On the soft top, personally I'd probably stick with the OEM one. I dunno what they cost, mine's only been replaced once and that was under warranty (factory defect), the current top is 11 years old.

I hear good things about both: is the factory top a Vinyl one? does the window zip out? (not being a dick, just don't know)

codrus wrote: Sway bars, most of the "kits" out there have way too much rear bias for my taste. FM's kit is a 1" front and a 5/8" rear, that's a huge jump over the stock 11mm (or 12mm sport) rear. I like the 1" front with the 12mm sport or 14mm Mazdaspeed rear bar.

I've had the FM kit on an early NA and I do agree, unless the front bar is set full-stiff it can be a bit more oversteer-y (which I would prefer to understeer and body roll! )

codrus wrote: Mazda's probably right on the Torsen, unless the previous owner swapped it.

It does have tweeters and the wind blocker, I assume these could have been added later? I want to swap to a 3.909 anyway, so I guess it doesn't much matter (save for resale of the old open diff?) since the new one will be a torsen.

codrus wrote: Random NB stuff -- if you have the factory stereo unit with the CD player and tape deck, you can take the tape deck out and with a couple bucks in parts build an cable to use the tape deck input as a line in for an iPod. No charging or song title display, but it sounds much better than using a tape adapter.

The PO upgraded to a decent sony cd and a pocket, luckily it already has an aux in.

another riddle me this: The airbag light is flashing 4 slow, 9 fast (the 49 code). I noticed the "passenger airbag off" light is burned out/not plugged in: could it be as simple as the switch being not connected/bulb out?

Thanks for everyones help so far!

I need to replace the air filter today: it looks like it's ingested a tree because it's so full of leaves!

I have always been pleased with the Robbins tops. I have a vinyl one on mine, and I bought the "larger window, sunfast canvas" one for my wife's NA. The canvas is really lovely looking. The larger window is great, but it doesn't unzip. I miss that.

Installation was straightforward -- not a "breeze" -- but not rocket science.

On the 99 check engine light issue. I had success with the intake vacuum line reroute discussed in the Miata.net Garage write up.

As to the keyless remote options, I recommend not bothering to lock the car. I try not to leave anything of value in the car, and I would rather have something cheap stolen, than to have some idiot cut my top to steal my sunglasses!

Not all check engine lights on 1999 models are ignorable. Those cars seem to be prone to failed coils, and the raw gas from the misfires will quickly destroy the cat.

You can do a foamectomy on an NB seat. Heck, I've done one on a 914 seat.

NB tops are constructed differently than NA ones. The windows don't unzip. And yes, the stock ones are vinyl with the exception of a few of the mazdaspeed models.

It's true that our sway bars tend to be set up a bit more towards oversteer (especially the 1.6 ones), but they are adjustable and you can make the car handle according to your preference. Autocrossers seem to like a more understeery setup as the cars are always in transition.

No CEL's at all (yet)

I fixed the Airbag warning light (the bulb that indicates the passenger side airbag being turned off wasn't seated all the way into the socket) and it seems okay now.

I did some Armorall and checked the upper shifter seal (of course, it's torn, I ordered a new one from the Mazda dealer next to my work pre-emptively though last week).

Two immediate things left to do: Replace the shift knob that I somehow twisted the leather loose on while putting back on (I assume I can get a decent one from FM salvage?)... and then there's THIS... (I can't believe that I didn't notice it before! it totally explains the bad body roll!)

Can I just get another stock end link? (passenger side) or is upgrading my best bet? (Keith?)

All in all a good Florida day in October!

Those end links look the crappy ones on my wife's Protege5 -- and they are always broken.

Go FM. Save the frustration.

Yep, screw those endlinks. Time for a decent aftermarket solution.

any suggestions? I'm sure the FM's are solid kit, but maybe a bit overkill for stock bars (for now)

Eh, no sense in throwing stock back on there, to be honest. Anything that breaks is an opportunity to upgrade. May as well just make the upgrade once so you're set to go when you upgrade the bars.

I think Racing Beat and 949 Racing both make endlinks as well.

I bet it would handle better with just the RB monster front bar.

If "more understeer" is better, yes :)

Honestly, the stock links don't break often. I'd just put another stock one back in. If you are going to change them out, the ball-jointed ones are a better choice both from a lifespan and a range of motion aspect than than RB or Generic Heim Join options. But expensive.

Keith wrote: If "more understeer" is better, yes :)

I don't see many ES, STR, or CSP Miatas with FM bars :)

This is one of those topics that would be hard to find an answer that isn't purely opinion.

The 949 Racing endlinks use spherical bearings and are much nicer than the RB ones. I have them and FM sways on my 99. Front bar is tight, rear is set loose. It is a bit tail happy, but to be fair it also has a low spooling turbo. It's also the only bar combination I've had on the car, so have no basis to compare. I'd like to try a RB hollow in the front or a stock bar in the rear and see what happens. I used an FM in the front and stock in the rear of my previous turbo 1.6 NA. Too much oversteer with the FM rear bar in that car.