TVR Scott (Forum Supporter)
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) SuperDork
3/15/21 8:22 p.m.

I need to relocate the shifter in my TVR, and first need some info.  Transmission is a 6 speed from a 2006 NC Miata.

I only need to move it forward about 1-1/2", so I was going to lop off the upper half of the shifter shaft and then weld in a plate to move it forward.  Question: does this assembly come apart, or do I just chop and go as it is?

I can tell the sliding reverse lockout mechanism is all housed inside the shifter shaft.  Looks like the shaft is just swaged onto the lower assembly.

Just hack at it?  Or is the heat going to ruin everything when I weld it?

And since I never find things like this, please tell me if there's an off the shelf NC shift lever with adjustable location!

Teh E36 M3
Teh E36 M3 SuperDork
3/15/21 9:12 p.m.

In for the info- I have the same issue and questions. 
 

do we rochambeau to see who cuts it and figures it out?

TVR Scott (Forum Supporter)
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) SuperDork
3/16/21 8:06 a.m.

In reply to Teh E36 M3 :

Good to know I'm not the only one with this idea in mind.

If you're all fired up to cut stuff, please let me know what you find!

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner MegaDork
3/16/21 8:42 a.m.

Can't help, sorry. 

If you want to spend some time testing ergonomics before you cut metal, you could just make an extension out of a piece of bar. Drill and thread it so it can screw on to the end of the level and use a jam nut (or two?) to lock it in place. Then  put a stud in the other end for the shift knob. You can adjust the length with multiple holes until you know what your dimensions look like.

FMB42
FMB42 Reader
3/16/21 8:59 a.m.

I had a 2" or so extension welded to the lower section of my Japanese 4 speed transmission stick many years ago. This welding did no harm to the stick (drove it for ~150K afterwards).

As for taking that stick apart; it looks like there might be a 'gold' colored retaining tab in the photo. Not sure about this tho. I'll try to find an expanded diagram of the stick assembly...

OK, the expanded diagram seems to indicate that the stick can be disassembled.

https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/images/parts/mazda/fullsize/EN00511.jpg

But I could be wrong.

TVR Scott (Forum Supporter)
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) SuperDork
3/16/21 11:11 a.m.
Teh E36 M3 said:

do we rochambeau to see who cuts it and figures it out?

Sounds like we're going to have to break some new ground here.  If you're worried at all, just watch along.  I'm ready to chop mine and see what happens.

TVR Scott (Forum Supporter)
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) SuperDork
3/16/21 1:44 p.m.

SURPRISE!!

It's rubber filled:

So probably welding on it is not going to be much fun.  Must be for added weight and reduced NVH.

I'm thinking I'll cut it off where the taper starts and then make an adapter plate that clamps onto the shaft.

Anyone have a stock NC shifter they want to get rid of?

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter)
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
3/16/21 1:47 p.m.

I had the rubber in my t5 shifter i modified for my miata. I just cut it all off. Used a drilled piece of 1x1 tube as my dogleg,  and put the two rubber-less halves back together shaped like a z.

Teh E36 M3
Teh E36 M3 SuperDork
3/16/21 1:59 p.m.

Well you are brave man. I'm not quite at that point yet and I thank you for sharing. So what's the plan?  My concern is partly the reverse lockout and how to undo that or make it work with a relocated lever. 

TVR Scott (Forum Supporter)
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) SuperDork
3/16/21 2:37 p.m.

In reply to Teh E36 M3 :

I think I'll get the two parts fully separated, and then formalize a plan.  Probably I'll design an adapter bracket to create the offset.  I'll start with a 3d print to verify fit and function, and then machine the finished version in aluminum.

Unless something else makes better sense.  We'll see.

TVR Scott (Forum Supporter)
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) SuperDork
3/16/21 7:57 p.m.

Did a bit more destructive-investigation.  I used my dremel to cut off the rest of the shift lever.  I cut a bit too deep in part of it.

The lever itself seems to be pressed onto the lower shaft.  You can see the roll pin on the top that keeps the sliding lockout mechanism from falling out.

I've got a test part printing right now.  I'll see if I like the offset tomorrow.

 

Teh E36 M3
Teh E36 M3 SuperDork
3/16/21 8:38 p.m.

I'm looking foirward to see what you come up with. 
 

are you relocating  the shifter forward?

TVR Scott (Forum Supporter)
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) SuperDork
3/17/21 3:10 p.m.

In reply to Teh E36 M3 :

It's relocating forward, and just a touch toward the driver's side.

Here's my mock-up.  Very reminiscent of a bicycle stem.

Teh E36 M3
Teh E36 M3 SuperDork
3/22/21 8:15 p.m.

Nice- I have to move mine a few inches so that might not work for me but it looks good. Thanks for sharing. 

TVR Scott (Forum Supporter)
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) SuperDork
3/22/21 8:59 p.m.

In reply to Teh E36 M3 :

FYI That offset is 2-1/2".

I'm not sure at what point you'd want some sort of remote linkage.  The cobra guys get away with a pretty huge dogleg on their shifters.

JayRoi
JayRoi New Reader
9/22/24 11:14 a.m.

In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :

What lockout mechanism does the roll pin hold in? Does that "octo nut"-looking thing slide along the rod under the spring, or does that rod push in as well? I'm planning on doing something similar to my ND, and want to understand the assembly before I cut it up (I assume the mechanism is probably identical, the part is very similar) 

TVR Scott
TVR Scott UltraDork
9/22/24 7:41 p.m.

In reply to JayRoi :

It's been a while since I worked on this one.  The lockout mechanism is all in that upper part of the shifter.  The whole shifter slides up and down where the spring is.  You can see the sliding shaft portion.

No guarantees this is anything like the ND shifter, though.  You may be starting with something totally different.

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