Oil for 1984 Scirocco

What oil should we use in an '84 Scirocco? Currently it has Royal Purple 10W-30 but it seems like people use thicker stuff IIRC. 1.8 8v

If I was going to beat on it I would use thicker oil (20-50).

If I was going to race it I would use 50W and warm it up first.

Any of the major brands of oil will work. Since this engine is well broken in and you haven't mentioned any issues with low oil pressure then use the current weight oil you have been using. I prefer to use either Shell Rotella 10W-30 or 15W-40 or the synthetic version. This is an oil intended for diesel engines but can be used in gas ones. It still has some zinc additive where oils intended for newer gas engines have had it removed completely. It has something to do with reducing the efficiently of the catalytic converter as an engine gets older and starts to use/burn oil.

I race a 16V VW and DD a 2012 TDI Jetta.

In reply to jimbbski:

+1 on the Rotella. All of my VWs and Alfas have loved the stuff. Something about that high zinc content...

It is purely an autocross car so beat on a lot

93EXCivic wrote: It is purely an autocross car so beat on a lot

so no extended use... and as another poster already mentioned... you didn't mention any oil related issues... I'd say keep it 10w30 or if you must 10w40.

M1 15W-50 or 0W-40?

M1 oil doesn't seem to be very good for VW lifters. 10w-40 synthetic lubromoly oil with a dealer, Bosch or Mann filter (you can get much bigger than stock ones) would be my choice.

Mazda787b wrote: M1 15W-50 or 0W-40?

This.

Travis_K wrote: M1 oil doesn't seem to be very good for VW lifters. 10w-40 synthetic lubromoly oil with a dealer, Bosch or Mann filter (you can get much bigger than stock ones) would be my choice.

Really? My buddy runs 15W-50 in his 16v Scirocco. 160k miles when the odometer broke, still sees redline constantly. Not arguing here, just curious what the issue is.

Anything will do, it's a JH, can't hurt those things.

ansonivan wrote: Anything will do, it's a JH, can't hurt those things.

This. As long as you don't use water, its good enough.

ansonivan wrote: Anything will do, it's a JH, can't hurt those things.

This

I always ran 15w-40 or 20w-50. Awesome old VW motors. I used to have a garage full of them and never had one break.

Mazda787b wrote:

Travis_K wrote: M1 oil doesn't seem to be very good for VW lifters. 10w-40 synthetic lubromoly oil with a dealer, Bosch or Mann filter (you can get much bigger than stock ones) would be my choice.

Really? My buddy runs 15W-50 in his 16v Scirocco. 160k miles when the odometer broke, still sees redline constantly. Not arguing here, just curious what the issue is.

A couple of people I know have used that oil in 8v engines and had weird lifter wear a lot quicker than you would expect, and didn't have the problem using other types of oil. Its hard to say for sure if its the oil, but since its easy enough to just get something else, royal purple or lubromoly (since they are both easily available in my area)are the usual choice.

I wonder why it is that most of todays OHC engines have solid tappets and don't require any special oils, yet have no wear problems.

Maybe VW had some weird metallurgy on the shims.

I've never had lifter wear issues with hydraulic head VWs when using all manner of oils - generic 5W20-20W50, Mobil 1, Brad Penn, Delvac, even ATF a time or two. I'm still new to the solid lifter models though.

I do understand that you do not use the wrong oil in a newer TDI on pain of frighteningly rapid cam/lifter wear.

Speaking of weird VW wear... what is it with forced induction 136mm rod engines and rapid rod bearing wear? The G60 I had had disgusting looking bearings. The first three Audi turbo fives I pulled apart had horrible looking bearings in as little as 60,000mi. Bottom shell looks great, top shell worn to copper on the edges at around the 11 o'clock mark.

Knurled wrote: Bottom shell looks great, top shell worn to copper on the edges at around the 11 o'clock mark.

Likely the high wear where you describe is likely do to it being in the thrust position @ ignition. a better rod would likely fix that issue

I wouldn't put Royal Poo-Poo in my lawn mower. But that's just me.

iceracer wrote: I wonder why it is that most of todays OHC engines have solid tappets and don't require any special oils, yet have no wear problems.

Sliding finger rockers or direct overhead cams are a whole nother animal than a pushrod motor with its narrow lobes and often questionable geomentry.

Kenny_McCormic wrote:

iceracer wrote: I wonder why it is that most of todays OHC engines have solid tappets and don't require any special oils, yet have no wear problems.

Sliding finger rockers or direct overhead cams are a whole nother animal than a pushrod motor with its narrow lobes and often questionable geomentry.

Also note Ford CVHs that have major cam wear issues. They basically put a 351C valvetrain in the engine without the pushrods.

Still doesn't explain why some feel that older VWs have cam issues. I know that the solid lifter cams have a different base circle than hydraulic. I also know that the valve lengths are different. Could the larger base circle be affecting things? Are the solid heads longer or shorter valves? (Is valve weight an issue?)

I pulled apart a Jag/Ford 3.0 and it used 33mm shim-over buckets just like VW used to use, haven't heard a peep about valvetrain wear with them. Then again the cams are smaller in base circle, much milder, and are operating valves with half the weight and maybe a quarter of the spring tension.