roninsoldier83
roninsoldier83 Dork
4/14/25 9:24 p.m.

This wasn't supposed to go like this. But, here we are. Again. 

I bought a 2010 NC2 Miata Grand Touring 6MT w/Sport Package a few months back. I was planning on getting back into autoX and with all the new SCCA classes that the NC would be competitive in, it seemed like a good idea at the time. For reference, I've owned an NC2 in the past and loved it, so it seemed like a good idea to jump back into the water and get another one. 

Fast forward a bit and just as I was finishing up my latest round of projects on my 128i, I realized that I accidentally built it to the hilt of the rules to run in a local BMW CCA autoX class. I was planning on using the 128i for the occasional track day, but when I realized I already set it up well to run local autoX, it hit me: why would I build a second car to dodge cones when I just finished one? 

So, I was on the fence about what to do with the NC. They're great cars and a blast to drive. I was going back in forth in my head about what suspension to pick up... researching 2.5L swaps... ITB's... and of course, patiently waiting for the new FM turbo kit to start hitting the shelves. In the meantime, I have just been pitching it around on the street, enjoying it in stock form. 

Today I burned a day at work (I have about ~700 hours worth of time in my banks-I need to burn a bit from time to time). I had absolutely nothing planned, so I figured I would go on a test drive and maybe write a quick review. It's been a long time since I've driven an NC back to back with an ND. 

I found a dealership about 1.5 hours north of me that just picked up a 2020 ND2 Club 6MT w/Recaro/BBS/Brembo package and only 4000 miles on the clock (single owner, no accidents, etc). Apparently an older couple just traded it in due to them not really driving it over the past 4-5 years. Since they're a bit tough to find used in this spec, it seemed like a good idea. I had a long drive up there in the NC2 and took it on a full hour-long test drive, so I could really compare them. You know, for science. 









My thoughts: 

-The interior ergonomics are interesting... the legroom is rated at being identical in both cars; which, I'm not convinced that's accurate. Granted, I have modified the seats in my NC2 a bit, but the NC certainly felt like it had a slight edge in total legroom. It also has more lateral room to splay your legs out just a bit. Normally, this leads to less irritation in my touchy right knee... but on my hour-long test drive, I noticed no pain in my right knee in the ND, despite the fact that it was pressed into the center console almost the entire time. I can't say why- but my only guess is maybe something to do with the floor-hinged gas pedal (in the ND) vs the floating gas pedal (in the NC). 

The NC is a wider car- it has more shoulder room and the seats are more accommodating to wider drivers. I'm not sure if this matters much, but I certainly noticed it. The Recaro seats in the ND also keep your legs pushed a bit closer- which might not be the case in the cars with the base seats, but the Recaro ND2 certainly felt a bit more confining in the lateral space department. Granted, these seats only have 4000 miles on them, so they might loosen up just a bit with time (for the record, my NC2 only had 29k miles on it). 

Headroom was difficult to judge, as I've cut up my NC2 seats a bit, so they're a bit lower than stock. If both cars were stock, I would say they would be pretty even. 

I can't really say which I found more comfortable, as they are very different. I'm inclined to say the NC is more comfortable- the seats felt a bit softer and cushier and there's a bit more room to spead yourself out, but for whatever reason, I kind of enjoyed the ergonomics of the ND. 

-The transmission in the NC is good- very good. In the past, I think I found the 5MT was a bit smoother, but compared to anything that isn't a Miata or an S2000, the NC 6MT was excellent, especially once is has a bit of heat in it. The ND2? Yeah, it's better. It just slots into gear a bit smoother. We're not talking night and day, it just feels like a more refined gearbox. I understand that it's not nearly as stout as the NC's beefier 6MT, which makes sense, as it feels like a lighter box in general, that's just a bit easier to work. 

Both of them have featherweight clutches that are easy to work and pedals that are perfectly setup for heel-toe downshifts. 

-I'm not really much of a fancy interior guy, but the ND is a much newer, more modern car. Of course it's going to be nicer and include more tech. Not really a fair comparison due to them being separated by a decade. 

-Handling was a mixed bag... the ND2's front end is just a bit more eager to change direction- I believe it has a faster steering rack ratio, and you can feel it. The NC's hydraulic steering rack has considerably more feel than the ND, but for an EPS setup, the ND isn't bad, it's just not old-school good. 

In my estimation, both of these cars have far too much body roll. Steady-state, single direction cornering isn't terrible, but quick back and forth transitions (I took quite a few roundabouts on my test drive) make both of them feel sloppy and all over the place. In this arena, the NC actually feels slightly more composed, but that's not saying much. Dear Mazda: when you release a car with a "Sport Package" or "Club" package, please consult Honda when choosing spring rates. 

They're both fun cars to pitch around at speed, but neither of them are nearly as sharp as say, an S2000 that you can buy for similar money. 

-Brakes... I don't know if this is fair to compare. I have no idea what pads are in the NC and the ND has Brembos. While the ND's stock Brembo calipers don't give a ton of feel on initial tap, they have more stopping power when pushed. 

-Freeway ride. This one shocked me. The NC was alright at ~75mph speeds for over an hour, but it never really felt planted, per se. No, I haven't checked the alignment, but I don't believe it was really out of spec. I think it's just a short wheelbase car that wants to change directions. It's a bit bouncy on concrete freeway expanses, but certainly livable. It's a bit harsher than I would have guessed for a car with such soft spring rates. 

The ND rides a bit smoother at the same speeds and inspires more confidence while doing it. I'm sure there's some EPS programming that goes into this voodoo, but I believe they also run considerably more positive caster. All I know is that the ND rides smoother at 75mph, tracks straighter and feels more confidence inspiring during freeway lane changes. It's nuts that the ND actually has a shorter wheelbase... if I didn't know better and you put me behind the wheel of both cars, I would have guessed the ND had the longer wheelbase on the freeway. 

-Power... ahhh, yes, power. I'm in Colorado. We're at high elevation and these cars aren't boosted. Neither of them are going to blow your socks off... but there is a noticeable difference. The ND2 feels considerably faster than the NC2. Despite the fact that they both rev to ~7500rpm, neither of them feel like an old school VTEC machine- no crazy cam-switch induction noise or high RPM pull... but both of them have pretty linear torque bands. The ND just has more of it. I know they're only rated ~14hp apart (167hp vs 181hp), but they feel further apart than that. A good bit further. I know the ND is ~150 lbs lighter, but if they were the same weight, I would guess the ND2 felt like it has 30+ more horsepower, with a healthy helping of extra torque. The ND2 feels like it would keep up with an AP2 S2000 (at least at lower speeds), even if it doesn't quite have the same engine character... the NC2 feels playful and has decent midrange, but there's no one in their right mind that would say it would keep up with the ND2. 

-Fun factor. They're not terribly far off, but the ND2 is the more fun car to pitch around. It's a lighter car, with better brakes, a shorter wheelbase, a better gearbox, a more mongoose-like front-end and noticeably more power. That sounds harsh and I really don't mean it to be. They're not that far off- the ND is just a bit more fun in almost every respect. 

Although the NC isn't without it's charms- there's a bit more space inside the interior, the hydraulic steering rack offers more feedback through the wheel, the transmission is far more robust, the aftermarket for it has exploded and they run a simple, carbon-build-up free port injection motor that offers greater ease in the realm of aftermarket fuel/tuning solutions. But on this day, as much as I love the NC, I had to concede that the ND was more fun to drive. 



When I came back from my ND2 test drive, they offered me a sum of money for the NC2 that I wasn't willing to accept. I made a fairly aggressive counter offer, letting them know if they met my terrorist demands, I would buy the car. I was expecting them to politely say no. After a minor wait, they came back and shook my hand. They gave me nearly as much as I paid [retail] for the NC2 just a few months ago and cut the price on their ND2 by a couple of grand. It was an offer I couldn't refuse. E36 M3. I really wasn't trying to buy a car today, but this thing followed me home. 










Well, so much for the turbo NC idea. 


I now have a couple of questions for all the ND owners out there: 

1. I would like a bit more headroom. I've seen the three options- Paco, Aurora and Jass- what's your recommendation? I'm not sure if it's relevant, but I would like no loss of legroom (I need to keep all of it!) and I prefer to keep the stock rake if possible (my right knee is a bit sensitive to aggressive seat rakes). Suggestions? 

2. Due to spending a small fortune on mods for my 128i and now buying an ND2, I'm going to be poor for a while... translation: I'm going to lack the funds for large upgrades of any kind for a while... but this body roll is no bueno. Recommendations on the most cost effective way to get this car to stop swaying back and forth like an alcoholic during happy hour, without ruining the car? 

ShinnyGroove (Forum Supporter)
ShinnyGroove (Forum Supporter) Dork
4/14/25 10:14 p.m.

Congratulations!  I've moved on from my ND2, but I still think it's one of the greatest cars I've ever owned.  Mazda designed a geniune halo sports car for a regular car budget.  The BBS/Brembo/Recaro options are totally worth it IMO, as long as you're comfortable in the Recaro seats.

I have mixed emotions about the Paco seat rails I installed.  On the one hand, I wouldn't have been comfortable in the car without them given my height and size.  They added significant rearward rake, which was probably even more important to me than the height difference.  On the other hand, they were a nuisance to install and use.  Do you like car projects where you need hands that are half of their actual size, or an extra elbow somewhere in the middle of your forearm?  If so, this is the project for you.  If you ever have to move the seat position for different drivers, I would look at the other options with sliders.  It was also a PITA to remove them and put the stock sliders back in when it came time to sell the car.  If you're comfortable in the car without lowering, I might just drive it that way for a few months to decide if you really need them.

Similar thoughts on the body roll.  I've heard all the complaints, but I think the stock ND2 club suspension is really nice.  I thought it was very well behaved despite the body roll and I had a riot hooning it around the track.  If you decide you just can't live with it, sway bars are probably the most cost effective next step.  The front one is a PITA to install, although having a lift probably helps.  If it were me I would wait until I had the funds and do the shocks/springs/sways all at one time just to save on labor. 

I bought mine with FM sways and Ohlin suspension already installed; a few months after getting it, I drove my friend's completely stock Club and thought "huh... THIS is how it's supposed to handle."  The Mazda engineers put a lot of work into spring and shock rates that matched the roll centers; even simply changing the ride height means you have to do some experimentation.  I eventually got it dialed in but it took a long time.  If I'm being honest it would be hard for me to say that the final result was "better" than a stock car, at least for casual performance driving.

If I were to do it all over again, I would get the exact spec that you just bought and keep it completely stock.  Put some good tires on it and whip it like a rented mule.  Just one man's opinion.

Floating Doc (Forum Supporter)
Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
4/14/25 10:32 p.m.

 Congrats on the new one! I am occasionally codriving an ND2 club that the owner drives in C Street autocross. Other than tires and wheels, it's 100% stock, including shocks, sway bars, even alignment. I agree about the body roll, but the car is still super capable totally stock.

If I would make a single change on your car, I would do a front sway bar, but only after consulting some experts. Call flyin miata.

EchoTreeSix
EchoTreeSix Reader
4/14/25 10:34 p.m.

Nice pickup! I have nothing to add, except seeing the Miatas at autocross body roll so much was entertaining. But they were fast and just.. stuck. 

I would guess the weather change has to do with your solid trade in offer. Been watching the prior gens shoot up in price ever since it got warm. 

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner MegaDork
4/14/25 10:54 p.m.

Congrats! And we're THIS close to releasing that kit, too...:) Seriously.

A good alignment helps the ND2 steering. And they are remarkably fast for their specs. 

Aurora is good stuff but spendy. I haven't seen the Jass brackets in person but they look pretty good. The Paco ones aren't his best work. , 

maschinenbau
maschinenbau PowerDork
4/15/25 8:37 a.m.

After owning a ND and spending the $$ on the Aurora seat track, I would happily do it again. Retaining a seat slider is such a nice convenience. 

Embrace the body roll for now. She likes to dance and you will learn her moves. It's part of the Miata charm. You can always upgrade later for track days and whatnot. 

I miss mine so much. I am big time jealous. 

DancesWithCurves
DancesWithCurves New Reader
4/15/25 9:36 a.m.
maschinenbau said:

Embrace the body roll for now. She likes to dance and you will learn her moves. It's part of the Miata charm. You can always upgrade later for track days and whatnot.

Big ol' +1 on this. Get familiar with stock so you can make educated comparisons to your upgrade options; look for ride-alongs or codrives to sample said options.

Also, full lean on stock suspenders makes for more dramatic track photos. Gives the Miata a happy-scampering-puppy look.

dculberson
dculberson MegaDork
4/15/25 9:48 a.m.

Body roll means your suspension is working. Getting rid of body roll can end up with you defeating your suspension and having slower lap times, just more level ones.

roninsoldier83
roninsoldier83 Dork
4/15/25 9:55 a.m.

In reply to ShinnyGroove (Forum Supporter) :

I appreciate the feedback! 

With the Paco rails, if I wanted to reduce the rake, could I just use shims in the rear to adjust the rake to close to stock? I know that would give up a bit of the drop, but I try to keep my hips roughly level with my knees to avoid knee pain from my right knee creeping in. 

When it comes to the suspension, I just don't much care for the excessive body roll. For a fun street car, I prefer something more akin to an S2000, or sporty BMW, or even an old NA/NB in terms of body control. I'm not really thinking track car, just something more confidence inspiring in the canyons or roundabouts. 

roninsoldier83
roninsoldier83 Dork
4/15/25 10:03 a.m.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Thanks Keith!

I'm assuming you guys will eventually figure out some sort of forced induction kit for the ND2/3? Looks like all the FI applications are for the ND1. I've read it was due to the injector and tuning limitations of the ND2+. I know you guys have gone to great lengths to make everything you release CARB legal. Any chance you're working on an ND2+ solution? 

The wife and I signed up for Flyin' Miata Summer Camp a while ago. We were planning on taking the NC, but it looks like we'll now be taking the ND. We signed up for one of the track days. I believe you guys essentially use a go kart course, which didn't look like it was too hard on the cars. Any recommendations on minor upgrades before the FM Summer Camp track day? I was going to run some higher temp fluid, make sure all the maintenance was up to spec, etc. With the factory Brembo's, would you recommend I pick up a set of more fade resistant pads? I wasn't sure how hard the small course is on brake pads. 

roninsoldier83
roninsoldier83 Dork
4/15/25 10:15 a.m.

In reply to maschinenbau :

Thank you! 

About that Miata charm... this is my 8th Miata (9th if you include my wife's former ND1). I've owned two NA6's, an NA8, and NB1 Sport, a Mazdaspeed NB and the two NC2's- this one rolls the most, by a pretty good margin. I've also owned a couple of other, somewhat "rival" Japanese roadsters in the form of two AP2 S2000's. I understand the idea behind the excessive body roll, I just prefer more body control. I'm not looking to build a track car, but I actually have more fun pitching a car around when it isn't rolling all over. Ideally something more skin to a stock S2000 or sporty BMW. 

I don't mind driving the car around as she sits right now, but eventually, I know my preferences and what general direction I would like it to head towards. 

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner MegaDork
4/15/25 10:26 a.m.
roninsoldier83 said:

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Thanks Keith!

I'm assuming you guys will eventually figure out some sort of forced induction kit for the ND2/3? Looks like all the FI applications are for the ND1. I've read it was due to the injector and tuning limitations of the ND2+. I know you guys have gone to great lengths to make everything you release CARB legal. Any chance you're working on an ND2+ solution? 

The wife and I signed up for Flyin' Miata Summer Camp a while ago. We were planning on taking the NC, but it looks like we'll now be taking the ND. We signed up for one of the track days. I believe you guys essentially use a go kart course, which didn't look like it was too hard on the cars. Any recommendations on minor upgrades before the FM Summer Camp track day? I was going to run some higher temp fluid, make sure all the maintenance was up to spec, etc. With the factory Brembo's, would you recommend I pick up a set of more fade resistant pads? I wasn't sure how hard the small course is on brake pads. 

We don't talk about all of our development projects, but you may notice that we did just buy an ND3. Read what you will into that.

We had that ND3 out on our track in bone stock form a couple of weeks ago, they're fully track capable for that track out of the box. The track is not hard on brakes but it is hard on cooling. There's a good chance you've got 50% antifreeze in that car, the easy cooling upgrade is to go to 30%.

Interestingly, our 2024 doesn't seem to roll as much as the earlier NDs, even though the sway bars are the same as is the rest of the suspension tuning. KPC really works.

ShinnyGroove (Forum Supporter)
ShinnyGroove (Forum Supporter) Dork
4/15/25 6:02 p.m.

The Paco rails sit directly on the mounting humps on the floor. You could try to jack up the rear with a few washers but you would also need to get some longer bolts. Trying to keep the washers centered while you inserted the bolts entirely by feel in a tiny dark space that you can barely reach with one hand would take an already frustrating install to new heights. Please get some video so we can laugh along with you!  ;)

Rodan
Rodan UberDork
4/15/25 6:27 p.m.

Congrats on the ND!  

I've also been guilty of a couple of total impulse buys when it comes to vehicles, so I get it... cheeky

 

roninsoldier83
roninsoldier83 Dork
4/15/25 6:41 p.m.

In reply to ShinnyGroove (Forum Supporter) :

Copy that! 

Sounds like a good time. I remember that feeling of navigating a bolt in the dark with limited space via a seat I bolted directly to the floor in my old DC2. I remember removing/inserting one bolt taking me ~10 minutes with a ratcheting wrench and wanting to beat my head into a wall the whole time. 

I've done something similar with using washers to shim things in the past. What I found worked best was to tape the washers together, then tape them to the mount and punch a hole in the tape so I could run a bolt through while they stayed taped in place. 

At this point, I'm leaning towards the Paco rails, only because they're the only company that mentions their rails actually add legroom. With the stock seat all the way back, I can still fit my finger between the back of the seat base and the rear bulkhead, so there might be a few millimeters to be gained. I'm curious to test their claims and noticed no such claim of additional legroom with their competitors. 

As much as I would like a bit more space between me and the soft top, I'm not willing to give up precious legroom in order to increase headroom. I have no idea about the Aurora rails, but I'm wary of the Jass setup based on my recent discoveries related to their NC lowering brackets. They claimed their NC brackets retained full seat travel... I measured, photographed and documented everything, finding that to be a false claim, as they actually reduce legroom by about 1.25 inches. I actually wrote a full blog article about it: 

 

 

CyberEric
CyberEric SuperDork
4/15/25 10:11 p.m.

Damn man, you go through cars like I go through milkshakes! 
 

Congrats, I love them!

roninsoldier83
roninsoldier83 Dork
4/16/25 7:42 a.m.

In reply to CyberEric :

 

Thanks, man! I think I’ve officially passed gambling on the list of financially questionable hobbies.

My personal best was my former 2008 S2000 I somehow kept for just over five years. Anytime I see someone say, “I’ve had this car for 20+ years,” I’m genuinely impressed by their immunity to automotive ADHD.

At some point, I should probably stop test-driving everything with four wheels and pick a cheaper coping mechanism.

 

roninsoldier83
roninsoldier83 Dork
4/28/25 10:39 a.m.

For the record, I ordered a set of Paco Motorsports seat lowering rails/brackets... yes, installing them was a royal pain in the neck- specifically just threading in the two rear mounting bolts blind with limited space. Lots of profanity ensued. 

As per my previous experience with the Jass lowering brackets on my NC, I was wary of legroom claims, but since the Paco rails were pretty cheap and completely reversible, I figured I would give them a shot. Spoiler alert: not only is legroom not improved, it's reduced. 

Before I removed the stock rails, I slid them as far back as they would go and marked a spot in the center of the throttle pedal as a consistent reference point. I pulled out a soft tape measure and pulled it tight, while having my wife help me take a photo. Stock rails: 



After I installed the Paco rails (on the most rearward slots) and slid them as far back as they would go, I performed the same measurement: 



It looks like they lose close to 3/4 of an inch worth of legroom. I suppose there's an argument to be made for the measurements being a bit skewed due to the lower seat height, but most of the lowering seems to be at the rear of the seat (less pronounced at the front) and while dropping it an inch might result in a slightly lower measurement, there's no way it's going to result in a 3/4" loss based on a slight angle change. There seems to be a bit of a placebo effect of "increased legroom" due to the additional seat rake, but in reality, the seat just doesn't slide back as far as it does on the stock rails. My guess is due to limited seat pan clearance. Either way, I'm a bit disappointed to say the least. 

For reference, the OEM rails swapped back on with ease. While the extra headroom would have been nice, due to some longstanding issues with my right knee, I'll take extra legroom over extra headroom every time. So, the stock rails will be staying on the car. 

WonkoTheSane
WonkoTheSane UberDork
4/28/25 11:12 a.m.

Welcome to ND ownership!
 

Everyone's covered everything I think needed saying on the mod front, but I will say if it's on the stock tires, I recommend putting an additional 4-6 PSI in them for highway/street use.  On my ND2 I think the door placard says run 32 PSI, but I found the it felt a bit like you describe... Pillowy? on initial turn in and bouncy after that.  I put them at 36-38 and it transformed the feel for me on the street.

I will say that I wasn't the biggest fan of the stock tires, either, but they're totally serviceable until they wear out.

Tom1200
Tom1200 UltimaDork
4/28/25 11:18 a.m.

In reply to roninsoldier83 :

Fixing the body roll issue is simple; pretend the car is French...........bam done.

If that doesn't work I would imagine a stiffer set of sway bars will fix it. I'm a fan of softer springs and bigger bars on a car. You end up with a decent ride and less roll.

The softer springs don't have that instantaneous feel of stiffer springs but they allow the car to build more mechanical grip.

Andy Hollis
Andy Hollis
4/28/25 2:51 p.m.

Welcome to the Club

I'm at 45K miles now on the Triple Threat ND2 and it still puts a smile on my face.

And if you want some quantified data on how various mods affect performance, look no further than the project car page for that one.

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner MegaDork
4/28/25 3:01 p.m.

Keep in mind that the current suspension on the Triple Threat is not available anymore.

I'm testing a new coilover suspension on our ND3 along with a set of our sways and it's become a real street weapon with a ride quality very close to stock. It's been a long time since a car has egged me on this much. I'll have it on track this weekend for final sign-off, but I've already had it down the rowdy mountain roads.

roninsoldier83
roninsoldier83 Dork
4/28/25 3:16 p.m.

In reply to Andy Hollis and Keith Tanner :

Gentlemen, I believe I have a lot of reading to do! 

Keith, I'm excited to hear about the new setup you guys are developing! Hopefully you'll still have it on the ND3 next month at FM Summer Camp- if so, I'd love to go for a ride! 

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