I'm working on a nieghbors 2007 Rio. It won't start, has no voltage to the starter terminal on the back of the ignition switch even with a new switch installed. It also has no headlights, the owner says the two problems started at the same time. The car doesn't appear to have a security system. No blown fuses or faulty relays that I can find. Dash lights up as normal when key is switched to run position.
Is this a known problem, and where can I find a wiring diagram?
Bump for the week day crowd.
In reply to HappyAndy:
This probably isn't much help, but when I had my '07 Accent I seem to remember the FSM was available somewhere online for free, because I used it when I changed my water pump & timing belt. I'm thinking it was on/linked from one of the Hyundai forums, but it's been a long time ago.
My Rondo had a very similar problem when the transmission interlock switch got worn out. If parked on a hill sloping down, the car would not start although everything appeared normal. The easy way to diagnose it to try to start it in neutral, or just rock the park lever a bit and see if you can get it to start. You can of course check the switch as well, it's a $25 part.
In reply to pinchvalve:
I already tried the trans switch in neutral.
I think that there are two separate circuits powering up the ignition switch, and one that supplies power to the start switch circuit is not powering up. I need a wiring diagram to confirm this.
Pin 2 is a blue wire and is powered from the 30A IGN-1 fuse in the under hood fuse box. Pin 5 is a green wire and is powered from the 40A IGN-2 fuse in the under hood fuse box. Pin 4 is a yellow wire power out for accessory. Pin 3 is orange power out in "on" Pin 6 is pink power out in "on" Pin 1 is white start signal to "start" fuse in the dash fuse box.
To sum that up you need B+ on pin 2 blue and pin 5 green wires. FYI Hyundai Kia locked down their tech info sites sometime in 2014, so no more free info for everybody.
If you don't have power at pins 2 and 5 check those two fuses under the hood. If the fuses are good it will have to be in the wiring harness as there are no connectors between the fuse box and ignition switch.
In reply to appliance_racer:
Thanks appliance_racer, I don't think that pin 5 has power. That gives me something to go on.
Is Bobzilla in the penalty box for his comments in the recently locked thread? He's usually pretty quick to reply in K mobile threads.
No.... just missed it. Still not sure why what I said was so bad. History is history. but whatever.
Power and ground cables on the older Korean cars are terrible. They were much better by around 2008-ish.
I think that I've got a diagnosis on this one. It had an intermittent problem for a while, that when she turned the key switch off, it would momentarily engage the starter before the engine stopped running, she also said that every so often the starter would grind when they went over a bump. The ignition switch was for a fact a melted mess and fell apart when I pulled it out, but the damage was more extensive.
With appliance_racer's help I found that the 40a ignition 2 fuse was also bad, although it looked intact. The starter relay is also extra crispy. With a new fuse and swapped in Aircon relay it tried to work, that is until the fuse blew again. I'm saying dead short in the starter. I checked every wire from the ig 2 fuse all the way out to the starter and found no evidence of a short to ground.
Maybe pull the signal wire off the starter and try the ignition key again. If it doesn't blow the fuse you've got a toasted starter. If the fuse blows again then you've still got a wire shorted.
From what you've found so far with the damaged ignition switch and relay I'm bettin you've got a cooked starter solenoid. They aren't the most robust solenoids out there.
If you pull the intake tube off the throttle body you can reach the starter from the top.
You'll need to log in to post.
