How about an old fashioned repair. Grind to good metal and solder that $#@&^%.
How about an old fashioned repair. Grind to good metal and solder that $#@&^%.
Noddaz said:How about an old fashioned repair. Grind to good metal and solder that $#@&^%.
That is actually a good idea since it can be done with a solder gun and no flame.
I found a low temp silver solder that I use to attach fittings to NiCop lines. Says you can do it with a lighter. All I know is that it requires no flux and it sticks to stuff that plumbing solder falls off of.
Talked to my indy yesterday, and we agreed that an aluminum pan is the way to go. I'm checking local yards for a used one, and I've got new gasket, bolt set, and OQS on order. Once I've accumulated everything, I'll get it flatbedded down to him; I don't have a lift here, and doing in on my back in the driveway just seems like a recipe for discomfort. Plus, the low-torque aluminum stretch bolts make me nervous. He told me they break all the time, even without disturbance - they had a car come in recently with a dozen of them still in place but broken and needing to be extracted. Better him than me.
In reply to 02Pilot :
Oh yeah, they break all the time in service. Fortunately, because they break in tension and not because they were bottomed out, and they don't corrode to the magnesium block (the reason why BMW is afraid to use steel), they just spin out with your fingers.
Torque is something like 4 N-m plus 90 degrees. They don't make it to 5 N-m, that 90 degrees is all stretch.
I think this is what you need.
Way back in College I had a 92 Ford Crown Vic as a winter beater. It had a rusty oil pan (apparently a known problem for these cars) and it was leaking like a seive. I think on the drive from Upper Michigan to Grand Rapids, MI I put in like 4 quarts of oil. I had to top it off every couple of days after I got there.
I was broke and had nothing to lose so I drained the oil, cleaned the pan as best as I could with degreaser, and put a nice big fat wad of JB Weld or some similar metal epoxy product on it. I let it dry for a few hours and filled it with oil again and prepared for it to fall off any day after.
Somehow it stopped the leak completely and it was totally fine for MONTHS!!!! I think about 6 months later I had finally scrounged together enough money to have a shop replace the oil pan when I had to bring it to a mechanic for some other work.
Car is done. I'm told there were really no issues with using the aluminum auto pan, and everything in the bottom of the engine looked nice and clean. For five hours of labor and the cost of parts (the biggest of which was the new OQS), I'm happy to know it's more or less permanently resolved.
Awesome! Now hurry up and go drive on those salty roads before all the snow goes away! :)
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