I'm getting absolutely sick of my Mazda3 hatch (automatic), and the abhorrent fuel mileage it returns. I want to get into something a little more fun, as I now live near mountains and valleys and would like to take advantage of driving them in a spirited manner. I have the C4 Audi S6, but it isn't exactly made for canyon carving, as fun as it is...
Fiance has been hinting at wanting a MINI for quite a while, and I think the R53 fits my needs and hers, quite well. We like the versatility of a hatch, but don't need a 5 door. Even in supercharged guise, the MINI gets better mileage in the city than my 3 does on the highway... Sad, just sad...
Whenever we go anywhere, it is just the two of us, and occasionally the dog, but he's a small basset hound, so he'll be fine in a back seat or hatch.
Optimally, I'd be looking for a non-sunroof car under 10K with about 60-70K miles. Color isn't really a consideration. I don't really like the chrome wheels that some of them had, but it'd probably get RPF1s sooner rather than later, anyhow.
Anybody know of a reason this is a bad idea?
I'd prefer a Miata, but I don't really fit in them that well. I'm even a little too tall for an NC... Seem to fit in MINIs okay, though.
They are super fun to drive. Good thing you don't like the sunroof, they leak and eat up the wiring I guess. Otherwise, the interiors are more rattly pre-05 thanks to a dash that is five pieces instead of three, the Xenon headlight levelers break and the windshield defroster is a little inadequate for northern winters. Get a guard for the power steering fan so that it doesn't commit suicide by plastic bag, also get a belt tensioner stop so you don't accidentally kill your supercharger. That's all I can think of, I still want one myself. Have fun!
mndsm
UltimaDork
12/4/13 9:32 p.m.
Mine just hoovered what I suspect to be a rod bearing.... But other than that, it's been fun.
In reply to SlickDizzy:
Never had a problem with the sunroof, rattly dash or PS fan, but the headlight leveler module took a E36 M3. The module is ~$450, and REQUIRES dealer programming. The windshield defroster isn't "a little inadequate" for northern winters, rather, it's a berking joke. The "Sport" seat option is a bit punishing on longer drives.
It was still a blast to drive, especially in anger, though.
Ian F
UltimaDork
12/4/13 10:28 p.m.
Maroon92 wrote:
Optimally, I'd be looking for a non-sunroof car under 10K with about 60-70K miles. Color isn't really a consideration.
We've gone over MINI pitfalls fairly recently...
Good luck. If you see such a beast, jump on it quickly as they don't last long at that price.
I searched for a few months for a non-sunroof R53 JCW. Book values are all over the map. Websites say one thing... asking prices are something else. Not even in the same zip code. Of course, being autocross focused, I was looking for a bit of a unicorn: 2006 (only that year) R53, factory JCW, non-sunroof. Oddly enough, if I wanted a GP, there are a number for sale, but are put into a rough autocross class (DSP).
Ian F
UltimaDork
12/4/13 10:33 p.m.
RealMiniDriver wrote:
The module is ~$450, and REQUIRES dealer programming.
Find a better indie shop. I know of two that can do that programming.
EVERY car I've been in - and I've been in dozens of them since 2003 - has rattled like crazy. Especially sunroof cars. Hell, my '95 Cummins that was slapped together out of two trucks by some hicks in western PA had fewer dash rattles. Sometimes I swear MINI owners get so used to the rattles they don't hear them anymore.
In reply to Ian F:
I no longer have the car, so the headlights aren't my concern, anymore.
SlickDizzy wrote:
They are super fun to drive. Good thing you don't like the sunroof, they leak and eat up the wiring I guess. Otherwise, the interiors are more rattly pre-05 thanks to a dash that is five pieces instead of three, the Xenon headlight levelers break and the windshield defroster is a little inadequate for northern winters. Get a guard for the power steering fan so that it doesn't commit suicide by plastic bag, also get a belt tensioner stop so you don't accidentally kill your supercharger. That's all I can think of, I still want one myself. Have fun!
My 2006 MCS never did any of that. 100k miles on it now. Owned since new.
PS fan guard is OE on the 05 and 06. Belt tensioner sounds like a good idea but hasn't been a problem for me. At least not yet.
On the other hand, it has gone through 4 pax motor mounts, 2 sets of LCA bushings, PS lines leaked and the auto trans is dying.
Fun to drive too.
mndsm
UltimaDork
12/4/13 10:41 p.m.
Ian F wrote:
RealMiniDriver wrote:
The module is ~$450, and REQUIRES dealer programming.
Find a better indie shop. I know of two that can do that programming.
EVERY car I've been in - and I've been in dozens of them since 2003 - has rattled like crazy. Especially sunroof cars. Hell, my '95 Cummins that was slapped together out of two trucks by some hicks in western PA had fewer dash rattles. Sometimes I swear MINI owners get so used to the rattles they don't hear them anymore.
They rattle? Its quieter than my ms3.
I've heard the Auto trans is a piece of garbage (not that I'd want one...)
No joke on the Mazdas rattling, mine is a rattle trap, and it drives me nuts. Then again, the Audi drives as though it's hewn from solid granite, and yet it has rattles like Hans hid 50 maracas in the interior.
Most MCS I've been looking at locally are sub 80K miles for about 8500. I figured 10K was pushing the budget a little.
mndsm
UltimaDork
12/4/13 10:55 p.m.
Well... My ms3 isn't stock either. But my Cooper s rode like a Buick in comparison. Fun cars... Not that bad to work on in reality with patience and adequate tools.
This one looks like what I'm looking for.
They don't have pictures of it, which bothers me. Price seems good, though.
!!!!!!ALL MINIs CUP REAR TIRES!!!!!!
Rotate your tires religiously! I've never seen a single car so consistently cup to such an extreme degree. Every single one. ROTATE ROTATE......ROTATE!!!!!
Do not do 15K mile oil service. Do not do 10K oil service. Do 5K oil service. Wahh wahh cry cry, it cost nothing over the life of the car. Spend the extra 100-200 per year to make sure your engine stays happy. They burn oil pretty good, but MINI also says they allow 1liter per 1000 miles. Holding less than 5 liters of oil, you do the math.
I see these at our shop pretty regular, as we can do all the programming, and the BMW dealership in our area can not, as they are not technically a Mini dealer (that's right, we have to order the dealer parts from them, but they send a Mini to us to get programming done.)
The Cooper S is pretty good overall. No major pit falls that would cause a complete loss of value. Non-s auto have CVT trans, regular failure. The later model Mini, just stay clear. Major problems with chain guides, and tensioners going, regularly have to R&R chains and guides. Local joke is that every single one needs the chains (and 2 out of 3 do, even under 50K miles).
Mushroomed strut tops, leaking oil, leaking power steering fluid, leaking coolant, typical BMW problems (bushings, etc), pain in the ass to work on, an absolute blast to drive.
Edit: also crank pulleys fail. But the good new is Pelican parts as write ups on about everything.
amg_rx7 wrote:
My 2006 MCS never did any of that. 100k miles on it now. Owned since new.
PS fan guard is OE on the 05 and 06. Belt tensioner sounds like a good idea but hasn't been a problem for me. At least not yet.
Yeah, most of the issues I refer to plague the 02-04 cars, the 05 refresh fixed a LOT of problems. The tensioner stop is more like an insurance policy; if you keep a good belt on you'll never really need it, but boy it sure would suck to buy a new supercharger because your belt broke and the tensioner wreaked the havoc it is known for when the tension is released...
blaze86vic wrote:
Do not do 15K mile oil service. Do not do 10K oil service. Do 5K oil service. Wahh wahh cry cry, it cost nothing over the life of the car. Spend the extra 100-200 per year to make sure your engine stays happy. They burn oil pretty good, but MINI also says they allow 1liter per 1000 miles. Holding less than 5 liters of oil, you do the math.
You'll hear no complaints from me. I grew up on 3K oil changes. I've since extended that out to 4 or 5K. I try to check the oil at every fuel stop, but lately I haven't been doing that...
blaze86vic wrote:
The later model Mini, just stay clear. Major problems with chain guides, and tensioners going, regularly have to R&R chains and guides. Local joke is that every single one needs the chains (and 2 out of 3 do, even under 50K miles).
FYI, MINI finally(!!!) recalled the R56 for this. Had mine in last week.
mndsm
UltimaDork
12/5/13 10:36 a.m.
Yeah, I hate to say it, but I think the 15k's are what cost me my engine. I was going more frequent than that, but it seemed to run into more and more and more starvation issues as it got older. I knew it had a leaky pan gasket, this was no surprise. My right front strut tower is hosed, but that's not a problem because I can do that when the motor is out. BE WARNED. These motherberkeleyers EAT tires- and they love aggressive camber.
mndsm
UltimaDork
12/5/13 10:38 a.m.
93EXCivic wrote:
Mushroomed strut tops, leaking oil, leaking power steering fluid, leaking coolant, typical BMW problems (bushings, etc), pain in the ass to work on, an absolute blast to drive
Also, they DO suck to work on, if you're not properly equipped. I went from HATING to work on this car, to not having a problem with it, the minute my BMW buddy bought a 4 post. I bring beer, he cranks tunes, we work on car. I have no issues with it.
Ian F
UltimaDork
12/5/13 6:11 p.m.
In reply to mndsm:
Yes. MINI's became exponentially easier to work on when I bought the scissor lift. Getting those bitches on jack stands can be sketchy.
A pair of Ireland Engineering fixed camber plates does wonders for helping reduce tire wear when driven aggressively. They'll also essentially eliminate tower mushrooming as well. I consider them the #1 mod for a street driven MINI.
mndsm
UltimaDork
12/5/13 6:15 p.m.
Ian F wrote:
In reply to mndsm:
Yes. MINI's became exponentially easier to work on when I bought the scissor lift. Getting those bitches on jack stands can be sketchy.
A pair of Ireland Engineering fixed camber plates does wonders for helping reduce tire wear when driven aggressively. They'll also essentially eliminate tower mushrooming as well. I consider them the #1 mod for a street driven MINI.
These are on my short list once mine is mobile again.
Never had tire wear issues on ours but we don't drive it particularly hard. The wife drives it most often as a commuter. I still have the stock suspension on it. One of the few cars that I've driven that didn't really get better with an aftermarket suspension. Odd.
However, the rear suspension certainly is a bitch to align for toe. If you don't have a guy/shop with experience aligning the rear of the Mini, they will either give up on it and get it 'good enough' or not even try. There are 3 bolts/nuts at the front of the rear subframe that control toe settings. The toe changes as you tighten down the bolts/nuts. I think you have to tighten them down in a certain order a little at a time in order to maintain the alignment numbers you are shooting for. Only watched it done once on my car and it took a good 30 minutes for each rear corner.
amg_rx7 wrote:
However, the rear suspension certainly is a bitch to align for toe. If you don't have a guy/shop with experience aligning the rear of the Mini, they will either give up on it and get it 'good enough' or not even try. There are 3 bolts/nuts at the front of the rear subframe that control toe settings. The toe changes as you tighten down the bolts/nuts. I think you have to tighten them down in a certain order a little at a time in order to maintain the alignment numbers you are shooting for. Only watched it done once on my car and it took a good 30 minutes for each rear corner.
That's actually very easy once on an alignment lift (though most people don't take the 30 seconds to figure it out). That design (just like the E36-E46 suspension) is very easy to get VERY precise toe on. It's so far away from the wheel it makes it less sensitive to adjust. And with .01° being the precision, it's very appreciated.
And I will second the crank pulley failing. We have seen a lot of those as well. Had one come in for overheating and lack of charging. It had separated but was just spinning inside the of itself, not even a whisper of a noise came from it.
Aspen
New Reader
12/6/13 10:33 a.m.
If you think the sedans rattle, try the verts.
Anyway the S auto trans is not that bad. Get a stick if you can. The main issue with the tranny is a poor valvebody design. You can swap in a rebuilt one with better components for $1000. Also the tranny fluid should be changed every 40k or so despite what MINI says.
The strut towers mushroom on just about every car, likely cause of tire wear. They leak oil a lot too.
In general that are many maintenance issues on these cars and the dealers charge a fortune. If you can DIY you may be OK. There are safer choices out there for reliability.
The fuel mileage is nothing spectacular. My wife manages about 25mpg US in town and maybe 34mpg on the highway.
Despite the above, I plan to keep this thing a long time. It's fun and cute and the mileage is good enough. It is reasonably well build and the issues are known and can be resolved for reasonable money and a few aftermarket parts. I plan to run 16" tires and Koni FSD struts to tame some of the harshness for street driving.