Rattle can question...

Since my painting skills fall into the "Paint it till all the runs merge together" category, I prolly shouldn't attempt this, but I've painted trailer wheels before, so I'm gonna try to paint some 22.5 steel RV rims.

They are a white powder coated now, bare used rims, and they will be black when I'm done. I would scuff them up with a scotch bright pad, but the powder coat jst thinks that is funny!

Will something like this self etching primer bite in enough to the smooth surface?

I don't actually know what "self - etching means, but I think it helps it bond to metal? What is the difference in this, the auto primer in a rattle can, and any of the other primers in a can?

The rustoleum "Rust Converter" tends to be my go to to protect rusty metal, do to the minimum prep work. The black "sort of sand blasted look" after a top coat of semi-gloss black comes out well for me, and is a look I like on a lot of stuff.

They also have a "rusty metal primer" (brown), but is it really much different than any other rattle can primer?

In VA, I had access to a shop that made tombstones, and as long as ya weren't in a hurry, he didn't charge much at all to throw something in, if he had enough other stuff to spend several hrs. blasting. Don't know if such a place exists, these days!

This does not need to be a pro looking job, but I'd like it to last past the first wash!

Use something more coarse to scuff the powder coat (I don't know which Scotchbrite you're using but it does come in different grades...)

Self etching primer etches into bare metal, it wont have much effect on powder coat.  As Stuart said, get something more agressive to scuff them up.  Make sure they are clean and well degreased.

stuart in mn said:

Use something more coarse to scuff the powder coat (I don't know which Scotchbrite you're using but it does come in different grades...)

Yea, thats the problem... powder coat is tough stuff. even the coarser stuff slides across too much by hand. I normally use the red (ish) pads for something like this. I don't actually know what "grade" that is, just by color!

JThw8 said:

Self etching primer etches into bare metal, it wont have much effect on powder coat.  As Stuart said, get something more agressive to scuff them up.  Make sure they are clean and well degreased.

I was afraid that was right! Is there anything chemical to take the outer "glaze" off the tough as nails powder coat? If not I'll have to find something for some mechanical persuasion. What spray can primer would you recommend for them, after roughing them up and cleaning well. A few minor rust places, naturally in the nooks and crannies, where getting to bare metal would be a sob.

I think I'd hit them with 600 grit, wash with soapy water, and hit with rust converting primer.  Then a normal primer or just go to top coat.

OR have them media blasted and do the same thing knowing you probably don't have rust issues but want to play it safe.

Consider using plasti-dip in a spray can instead of paint.   It adheres pretty well to almost any clean surface.  I "dipped" all the chrome trim on my truck with no more than a wipe down with degreaser and its holding fast.

In reply to JThw8 :

That's what I was thinking as well . Full can of paint for each wheel. Split a can of glossifier to give them shine. Wipe down the rims with degreaser. Dump the cans in a tub of hot water to raise the internal pressure. Go to town. Don't stop when you think it looks good, use the whole damn can. Move from wheel to wheel with the glossifier until empty.

I would use the Rustoleum Professional (Tall, Silver cans) primer and paint. I swear by it. Not only does it do a much better job than the regular rustoleum, a can also lasts much longer. The downside is it takes longer for the top coat to dry. 

In reply to JThw8 :

My only experience spraying plasti dip was a miserable failure! I do freely admit it was my ineptitude, not the product; unfortunately, I don't think I got better by accident, since then

After some prep work by me, I do have a friend that would prob. be good at it, and would hold the button down on a can or two for me. I know a lot of guys paint their car rims with it, but on a big RV, (not my Big Boy - its on Alcoa's) they usually get washed at Blue Beacon truck washes. I don't know what the chemicals they use to attack rim dirt would do the plasti dip? The hired hands there are also used to being a tad agressive...

In reply to Appleseed :

I assume the glossifier is sold next to the cans of plasti dip? And is not the same as clear gloss paint?

As last post, durability on the 22.5 dually rims has me wondering.

I paint wheels with appliance epoxy.  It sticks to anything with minimal prep.

You will NOT be able to color sand it, though.  I don't think anything less coarse than a cheese grater will touch the stuff.

To give an idea of "minimal prep" - I painted the inside of my wheelwells with the stuff after a powerwash and that's it.  I've had to touch it up, and painted right over dirt.  Paint don't care.

03Panther said:

In reply to Appleseed :

I assume the glossifier is sold next to the cans of plasti dip? And is not the same as clear gloss paint?

As last post, durability on the 22.5 dually rims has me wondering.

Glossifier is Plasti-Dip's clear gloss.  The basic colors are flat. Dont use regular paint on dip. The solvents mess it up but good. I made that mistake trying to protect the Murdercycle's tank that I dipped in Glo-n-the-Dark blue. They also have gloss with pearl silver or pearl gold. The silver on black rims would look almost gunmetal. Each additional layer gets more and more silver or gold. 

The key to Plasti-Dip is thickness. That's why I recommend at least a whole can per wheel. Problems arise from wimpy coverage.  You can never make it too thick. Don't  like  the color? Spray a different color right over the old one. 

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

I've heard the appliance rattle cans are tougher, but I haven's seen them to be. I know a 2 part epoxy would be tough enough, but don't have te equipment to spray. I have heard of two part rattle cans (break the seal on one chamber), But I don't know if they ever caught on.

I assume you mean spray? Could that be done with a super cheap airless sprayer?

In reply to Appleseed :

The silver clear on black would be a great look. Do you think it would survive the harsher cleaning environment? I know its very popular on car rims, but have not seen enough to have a clue how durable it is.

In reply to 03Panther :

Not sure on super aggressive washes or solvents. Maybe do one wheel in basic black. Use the whole can and try it. You'll be out an hour of time and $5 for the can. 

If it fails the test, I'm thinking Pete's appliance paint might do the trick. It comes in spray cans, too.

In reply to Appleseed :

I get my blinders on sometimes (often!) so thanks for reminding me that sometimes trying something is an awsome thought! So thanks fot the 2x4 to the head (grew up hearing that joke... I'm not the only hard headed Scandihoovian in the family) The wheel is bare already, Im just trying to reinvent it, I guess.

I had not seen the appliance paint in a can in epoxy... I thought epoxy implied "two part"

In reply to 03Panther :

Just the spray cans at the hardware store.

put this in your drill. Scuffy scuff scuff. hit it with some old school automotive enamel spray paint. Rusto makes it still. Don't get any of that 2x paint and primer E36 M3, that's for furniture

In reply to Mndsm :

It's a really good idea to wear a respirator or mask while using those wheels.... they put a LOT of crap in the air!

Also, I've discovered they make 'art' nozzles for most spray paint cans.  These really do work better than the ones that come on the spray cans (Rustoleum, at least), especially if you're looking to cover a large area.  They're a little spendy for what they are, but if you're looking for a nice finish they do work.  I found the ones I used on Amazon.

Appleseed said:

In reply to 03Panther :

Not sure on super aggressive washes or solvents. Maybe do one wheel in basic black. Use the whole can and try it. You'll be out an hour of time and $5 for the can. 

If it fails the test, I'm thinking Pete's appliance paint might do the trick. It comes in spray cans, too.

I used this on a set of white wheels from the junkyard with excellent results.
 

I washed them with scotch bright pads and Dawn dish soap, then wiped them down with alcohol. I let them dry for a full day in the sun after the first washing, and again for a couple of hours after the alcohol.

Edit: I think I washed them, let them dry, then scuffed the finish with some sandpaper. Then I followed up with the scotchbrite pads and dawn.

After spraying them black, I didn't like the gloss finish so I went over them gently with some fine steel wool to cut the finish. That resulted in a very OEM looking semi gloss finish.
 

After several years of use there were no scratches through to the original white, and no chips at all. It held up really well. 

Later on I tried to do my air cleaner lid, but made the mistake of priming it first. That never really worked, it didn't have the hard epoxy finish that it should have. Apparently, the epoxy wasn't compatible with the primer. 

In reply to Rodan :

Thanks for the heads up, never knew such a thing existed.

I paint wheels almost exclusively with duplicolor wheel paint. It's supposedly designed to resist brake dust, which is why I use it.

9 times out of ten I don't prime, and when it's not too hot/too windy/too dusty/too buggy, results can be nice. 
 

Rodan said:

In reply to Mndsm :

It's a really good idea to wear a respirator or mask while using those wheels.... they put a LOT of crap in the air!

Also, I've discovered they make 'art' nozzles for most spray paint cans.  These really do work better than the ones that come on the spray cans (Rustoleum, at least), especially if you're looking to cover a large area.  They're a little spendy for what they are, but if you're looking for a nice finish they do work.  I found the ones I used on Amazon.

"Art" paint works a lot better too. Designed to be a lot stronger and more vibrant on a variety of surfaces. Allegedly. 

Thanks to all for the replies. 

I was off grid for a bit, but poped  on to thank ya!