Cord reels are nice for both air and electric. I've got one of each in the middle of my shop and I use both constantly. Those work well with high ceilings.
Cord reels are nice for both air and electric. I've got one of each in the middle of my shop and I use both constantly. Those work well with high ceilings.
mlwebb said:Anything large and belt driven and you will be happy. Direct drives are annoyingly loud.
Run 30-40 ft of black pipe around the top of the wall with a couple drops will do a lot to dry and clean up the air (before filtering).
RapidAir is a ton less work than black pipe and not all that expensive.
For mine, I installed a filter/drier on the outlet of the compressor along with a higher-flow regulator. I also used a silica gel drier on the line to the safety latches, and an inline oiler on the line to the rolling bridge jacks. BTW, if you didn't get the air line kit for the jack, you really want it.
In reply to codrus :
I haven't ordered the lift/jack yet, so I'll add that kit to the order list. Thanks!
In reply to docwyte :
What's your budget? I bought this compressor last year to replace my aging and noisy Coleman. The Coleman gave me about 14-15 years of service, so I can't complain there. But it started leaking compression and was no longer able to reach it's 150 PSI cutoff anymore.
The drop in Db with the belt driven compressor is incredible. I can actually have conversations while standing next to it. I also like the fact that it can be converted to 220V if I ever get around to putting a subpanel in the garage.
I hope it's applicable to the OP's query, which it seems like it would be, as the result is for a Fairly Serious Home Compressor...
Anybody had any experience with the scroll compressors like Eastwood has started selling?
https://www.eastwood.com/scroll-compressors
The quiet is compelling...
In reply to Ransom :
The biggest downsides I'm seeing to scroll compressors are: 120V models don't exist and they're $$$$ (that Eastwood is $1500 and that's a cheap one).
In reply to Ransom :
That one is quite a bit more than the belt driven 30 gallon that Tractor Supply sells. Wonder why...
Pulled the trigger today on an air compressor. I wanted the Porter Cable that Tractor Supply had, I went online and checked stock, my "local" store that's 20 miles away showed they had one. Grabbed my 5 year old son and headed over there, only to literally have the guy right in front of me buy the last one they had! Doh!!!
So I went to Lowes instead and bought basically the exact same thing for a bit less money. Now all I have to do is run it in for 30 minutes and build all my air lines. I bought an air manifold, all the fittings, an in line air regulator and 3 air hoses....
Got a part number on that Kobalt unit? The only similar one I'm seeing on the Lowes site is the 30 gal / 155 psi with a single cylinder pump (for $450, which is more than the Porter Cable at Tractor Supply).
In reply to rslifkin :
Looks like its 905519, retail was $404.10.
Just got all my air lines, manifold and in line regulator plumbed. Breaking in the compressor right now, supposed to run it for 30 minutes with the air valve open. So far, so good. Blown (get it, LOL!) away at how much more quiet the belt driven compressor is vs my old, small oil less one is...
Interesting, that one is truly not on their website. I guess I'll have to make a trip over to Lowes to see if my local store has them or not.
Do you guys dump and replace the oil after initial run in?
Ok, is this normal? Air compressor pumps up just fine, but only holds pressure for about 3 hours, then it's leaked down enough that the compressor has to pop on again for maybe a minute?
Clearly there's a leak somewhere...
In reply to docwyte :
I feel like 3 hours is pretty darn good.
I'd check for leaks. My compressor can hold 120 psi for weeks, although I don't have a lot of piping or connections in my installation.
pop off valve or cheap tank drain valve likely
exercise the pop off even on new, could be residoodoo from manufacturing, just pull out to clear the seat
replaced two cheapish drain valves on new compressor tanks w/ quality ball valves, totally worth it
other than that unloader valve
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docwyte said:Do you guys dump and replace the oil after initial run in?
Yes.
docwyte said:Ok, is this normal? Air compressor pumps up just fine, but only holds pressure for about 3 hours, then it's leaked down enough that the compressor has to pop on again for maybe a minute?
Clearly there's a leak somewhere...
Unless you've plumbed the entire house for air, and have 25 joints and 10 quick disconnects, three hours is not long enough for it to hold pressure. Windex sprayed at the joints will find the leak(s). Make sure you use teflon tape or plumbers compound on all of the pipe threads. They WILL leak if you don't.
I put a quality ball valve on the outlet and shut that when I'm not in the garage. I don't like to power the compressor down and let the tank bleed to zero; I believe it's hard on the pump and wasteful.
In reply to rdcyclist :
I'll do that tomorrow. I don't have that many connections and I did teflon tape all of them. I suspect something on the tank/unit itself.
Changed the oil and hit all the connections with soapy water. No bubbles/air leaks that I could see. So what now? Tank definitely bleeds down over 3-4 hours...
check the drain petcock. if there is a little crap in the seat it will cause a slow leak. open the drain with the tank wired up and let the compressed air blow the drain seat clean for a minute or so. close it up and see if it still leaks down
Guy's, hp claims for compressors and vacuum cleaners are complete BS. Just know that a 100% efficient motor will consume 748 watts. Since no motor is 100% efficient, just assume at least 1000 watts per horsepower.
In reply to kb58 :
what are you replying in regards to?
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