Rotted transmission pan

Hey guys,

Now in my quest to keep my 01 Dodge Ram van from completely falling apart I have found the transmission pan is rotted and dripping fluid. It looks like a pretty easy removal process,but should I replace the filter while in there? Also is there any gotchas to this removal and replacement? Like do I have to drain the torque converter and if so how do I re-fill it? I am asking such a stupid question as this is really the only automatic I have ever owned for any real length of time that needed work. Is re-filling the trans a hard project to get it right? Can anyone point me to a place that sells the transmission pan? Rock auto doesn't list it,and neither does Auto-zone's website. Maybe a dealer only part?

Chris

To do it right you need a transmission fluid changer, I have done this a number of times by just dumping the fluid from the pan,, installing a new filter and replacing with a new gasket, never caused any issues.

No tricks in my Ford vehicles.

the pan is rusting away? That has to be a new one to me

mad_machine wrote: the pan is rusting away? That has to be a new one to me

I've seen it happen a number of times but usually on an older vehicle. Guess that's good old Chrysler quality! LOL!

The oil pan is rotting on my '03 Durango. One of the rust spots already has oil seeping through.

Also happened on my '89 Toyota, wasnt anything a self tapping screw an JB Weld can't take care of.

I'm not sure what trans you have, maybe 46RH or RE but make sure you also do the band adjustment while the pan is off.

I had a 98 Jeep that had a lot of rust on the side of the oil pan. I wire brushed it and it immediately started leaking.

We don't use a lot of Loctite up here...

In reply to Mazdax605:

Pull-a-part

Normal, I have replaced many trans pans on DCX products. The pan just hangs a bit too low and catches stuff flying under the vehicle. Do yourself a favor and just get an aftermarket +1 qt pan in aluminum.

mad_machine wrote: the pan is rusting away? That has to be a new one to me

Welcome to New England, where we roll the salt trucks before the first snowflake even forms in the clouds.

Yes, it's called the Dodge dealer. Get the special gasket there too. Replace the filter. Adjust the bands (You won't be able to get to the one inside the pan without taking the filter off anyway, might as well change it. Button it up, SIX quarts of ATF+4 and you're done.

Really, if you've never adjusted the bands it makes a helluva difference.

I have a 46RE, how do you go about adjusting the bands?

My 2002 Liberty did the same thing. Easy change.

mad_machine wrote: the pan is rusting away? That has to be a new one to me

Maybe the chrysler / fiat marriage was arranged by their (low quality) steel supplier?

I had a diff cover rust through on 97 chevy truck

One band is on the driver's side near the selector. Loosen up the jam nut, tighten center screw to 72 in lbs, back off center screw 1 1/2 turn (it depends what engine is in it) Then torque jam nut to 25 ft lbs.

The other adjustment is under the filter. That rocker arm looking thing. Back off the locknut. Tighten the adjusting screw to 72 in lbs. THEN back off the screw three turns. Torque locknut to 16 ft lbs.

I only did this once and am recalling it from memory, so consult a manual first. It was easy.

Do I need an inch pound torque wrench(I do) or some sort of inch pound screwdriver? I ask because the above mentioned a screw and not a bolt.

RexSeven wrote:

mad_machine wrote: the pan is rusting away? That has to be a new one to me

Welcome to New England, where we roll the salt trucks before the first snowflake even forms in the clouds.

we use a LOT of salt here in MN usually from November to April or so, and i've never seen an oil pan of any kind rust out.

but it's a rare thing to see a car or truck more than 10 years old that has solid rocker panels on it..

Plow trucks around here have rotted out oil pans all the time. Even after only a few years of plow duty when the trucks are new. My bet is we get more of this due to the warmer winters compared to MN. Plenty of wet salty roads around here. I bet MN is probably mostly dry because the snow stays frozen as opposed to here in MA where it will warm up after a snow usually,and then we get melting,and salt mixed in,and more dumped on top. Cars around here rust really quickly it seems,and you don't usually even see cars that are 10 years old too often because the people around here replace them like they change their underwear it seems.

HappyAndy wrote:

mad_machine wrote: the pan is rusting away? That has to be a new one to me

Maybe the chrysler / fiat marriage was arranged by their (low quality) steel supplier?

Maybe.. but the pan in my 34 year old fiat still looks pretty rust free

Picked up a new pan,gasket,filter,and ATF from local Dodge dealer. Not bad at $124 for everything with a friendly discount. Funny thing is the factory pan is painted black,but replacement is bare steel. Maybe the paint was/is holding in the moisture,and allowing the rust to take hold easier? Is it as easy as it appears to be to replace this pan? Anyone have the torque specs of the pan bolts,and I imagine there is a sequence to tightening them? Any help would be much appreciated.

Chris

Easy peasy. I think the pan was powdercoated orginally with a plain steel base. The new pan should be galvanized/anodized.

The reusable pan gasket should have torque limiting spacers in it. So the German specs apply, just don't strip the bolt hole out. No real pattern to them either. Just go over all the bolts TWICE, or you will have a leak eventually.

Another victim of New England roads here, need to replace the oil pan on my Impreza before snow flies.

I always torqued Dodge pan bolts evenly to 30lbs, never had a leak. YMMV.

ValuePack wrote: Another victim of New England roads here, need to replace the oil pan on my Impreza before snow flies. I always torqued Dodge pan bolts evenly to 30lbs, never had a leak. YMMV.

that's a LOT of torque for bolts that are probably not much bigger than 1/4"- that's the low end of the torque range for 3/8 bolts..

i always just use my calibrated torque sensitive hand to go "snug, but not too tight" with my 6" long 3/8" drive ratchet on little bolts like that in aluminum.. if the gasket seeps after it's got oil in it, just go a little more "snug".

In reply to novaderrik:

I worked part time at an indy transmission shop for a few years, the rule of thumb from the old guys was 30lbs for Mopar pans. Made sense, considering the heat under there, thermal expansion of the dissimilar metals being fastened, etc.

However!

Looking up torque specs on several truck-application Dodge autos now, I'm seeing no more than 9-13lbs called out for. I bow humbly, head held low, in my ignorance before the Internet Powers That Be.

"Snug, but not too tight" it is.