kevlarcorolla
kevlarcorolla New Reader
12/25/08 6:52 p.m.

Just trying to make the most informed decisions possible regarding tire choice for next year so I thought this would a good place to ask.

Car is a mod class corolla,1800lbs with boost and around 200whp.Up here in the great white north we run only on asphalt with with courses under 1min in lenght. I need to balance costs with performance,I have a set of light 13x7 aluminum race wheels so going with a 20x9.5x13 hoosier slick is a good option,I would like to go up to around a 22" tall tire to stretch 2nd gear a bit however. With dot's I don't have as many choices,255x13 A6(need new wheels),275x15 A6(need new wheels)or maybe 225-50-14 A6 or 710's(need new wheels).

It's been suggested to me that with the light weight of the car the dot's aren't that great a match being designed for heavier cars,anyone have experience with the hoosier slicks in the R25B compound?.Would this compound be the 1 I'd want?.

Look forward to hearing your thoughts.

jgp1843
jgp1843 HalfDork
12/25/08 10:21 p.m.

A friend of mine used to run used slicks on his E Mod rotary-powered X1/9. He used Formula Atlantic qualifying tires. Because they were designed for a car with high downforce they were quite happy on a 1900 pound autocross car, and actualy had quite a long wear life. If I remember correctly, his were about 20 inch diameter, maybe 20.0x9.5x13, and he mounted them on 13 x 9 alloy rims. Best of all, the used slicks were cheap - like around $50 each, and had at least 50% tread remaining. I drove the car a few times (including at Nationals in 2002), and the tires handled great! The car weighed 1900 with around 180 hp at the flywheel.

For a taller tire, maybe rears for a FC?

I say used to in the above only because he has moved on to a 911. His nephew now has the X and is continuing to run the used slicks. I believe he bought his tires from one of the folks in GRM who advertize used slicks, back inthe classifieds.

Another advantage is weight - his tire/whel combination weighed around 19 pounds, about what a DOT tire weighs by itself. Since you already have lightweight wheels, saving around another 8 - 10 lbs per corner (and rotational weight, at that) is not to be sneezed at.

fifty
fifty New Reader
12/25/08 10:45 p.m.

110HP here, FWD, 2100#. R25 Hoosiers are what I run, mostly because I get formula car take-offs for cheap (a set of 4 for around $100). Very sticky tire. They are a cantilever design, if you run them at the common pressure of 18 - 20 psi, I find them to be really mushy. I'm running them at 30 psi, turn in is much improved at higher pressure.

poopshovel
poopshovel Dork
12/26/08 11:59 a.m.

Having run a high-powered, lightweight EP car (1580 lbs., 150 FWHP, Limited Slip,) on asphalt for 2 seasons, I'd definitely run R-comps over slicks. I was running R35's up front and R25's in the rear. R25's may have hooked better, but the R35's would barely last a full season, and I didn't have the dough to buy $1200 worth of tires per season. The only time the R35's got hot enough to stick on asphalt was in 90+ degree weather. Granted, in thse conditions, they STUCK, but otherwise they were pretty unresponsive. In temps below 60 degrees, forget it. Driving the car was like riding a jet-ski. I'd go for R-comps on cool asphalt.

My $.02.

PS: See also: Elam dominating EP by running on R-comps while everyone else ran slicks at nats once the surface changed to asphalt instead of concrete. Food for thought.

modernbeat
modernbeat HalfDork
12/26/08 3:36 p.m.

As you've found, with the wheels you have, tire choices are really limited.

I'd suggest to continue running the 20x9 cantilevers until you can replace the wheels. If you WANT a 22 inch tall tire AND your suspension has decent geometry, or can be adjusted to a decent geometry, and you drive a tight, low-slip angle line and/or have a lot of power - then I'd get the 275/35-15 A6 tires. If you have less perfect geometry and drive a deeper slip angle - get the 255/45-13 A6 tires. If you can PERFECT geometry and the car doesn't have a lot of squirt, get the 22x10x13 R25b tires.

kevlarcorolla
kevlarcorolla New Reader
12/26/08 8:01 p.m.

Thanks for the thoughts,my wife co-drives occasionally(more this upcoming season)so I'm hoping to have a little more heat plus I was thinking of building a set of those super duper home depot insulating tire blankets. The main reason for hesitating on buying new wheels(other than the obvious costs)is I might be tossing the entire suspension after next summer and designing stuff from scratch which includes a bolt pattern switch. Poopshovel,how many eventsdid you do a season?just trying to gauge tire life,how many runs before the typical hoosier hardening?.

poopshovel
poopshovel Dork
12/27/08 7:37 a.m.
Poopshovel,how many eventsdid you do a season?just trying to gauge tire life

I'm guessing here. Around 12-14 when I was a little more active; 3 or 4 of which were 2 day events, and I did probably half of all said events with a codriver. Even with a codriver, the tires never felt as good as they did on a scorching hot day. Fronts didn't last an entire season. I was running 29-32 in the front (good wear and pyrometer tested,) and ~24 in the rear.

SkinnyG
SkinnyG New Reader
12/27/08 11:32 a.m.

I ran 20x9.5x13 Formula Atlantic slicks (Goodyear R175) on 13x10's on my 1275lb locost. Even on the hottest day with two drivers, I couldn't get the tires over 135°F and they need to be at least 160°. I will be downsizing to some 7 or 7.5" slicks to see if I can get more heat into them. They felt freaking awesome for the first 30 runs, then they seemed to fall off. I have probably 120 runs on them now and they are NOT wearing out..... They still stick better than my Sumitomo all seasons....

I ran a set of well worn V710's on 13x7's for a few events, and it was much more fun to drive but they still didn't get very hot.

The weight difference is very true. I can lift four slicks on 18lb wheels all bolted together onto the back of the 7 by myself. I need help with the 710's on 13x7's.

fifty
fifty New Reader
12/27/08 1:34 p.m.

Good point about big tires and light cars - I've always had better grip when I ran with a co-driver. It takes a lot of autocrossing to get sufficient heat into the larger tires, and I'd guess that's somewhat independent of the rubber compound.

ncjay
ncjay New Reader
12/28/08 9:18 a.m.

Not sure if anyone's mentioned it yet, but you can always soak a slick tire with some tire softener. Purchase a durometer and start adding some Track Claw.

kevlarcorolla
kevlarcorolla New Reader
12/28/08 6:52 p.m.

I'd be afraid of the tire agent turning the tires into hockey pucks after a heat cycle or 2 but have no experience with the stuff.

Skinny I ran the goodyear cantilevers in the softest compound a couple years ago and they weren't too bad on a hot day,I didn't do more than a hamdfull of events that year and tried them after carfull storage the next spring-they were toast as far as grip goes. I think the hoosiers are softer than the goodyears though when new.

You'll need to log in to post.

Our Preferred Partners
BU4B0302VPCDHSLN4a0KNeqi8d0YDzIr6ewWnCQ4rwIOyzxwPuCts4KbaLVpHFLR