Sludge happens

Well this was about as planned as a teenage pregnancy.

A week ago Sunday I returned home from a quick trip to Ohio to find my 2000 Firebird (the little mulllet) had developed a rod knock. This isn't supposed to happen to a 3800 V6 with 84,000 miles on it. I guess it was overwhelmed by the sheer Aussie Awesomeness that exists at the compound by the curve and had a heart attack.

So out came the motor, through the bottom. (I just put a clutch in this thing 2 months ago..)

Took it apart and found a rather sludged up mess. Looks like the oil pickup got plugged and starved it. Had to dig out the head bolts from under a thick layer of crap.

Dropped the short block and heads off today to be cleaned and have whatever crank/bearing issue addressed. But wait, the motor won't fit in the trunk of the Big mullet! Time to get Grassroots creative. Remove passenger seat and T-top. Add layers of cardboard and heavy plastic bags.

It fits nicely. Who needs a truck anyway? Motor should be done in a week or so. Stay tuned for the completion of my much unplanned project.

I always thought that generation (big mullet) would make a decent ute.. all you need is a bulkhead and window between the front seats and the cargo area

too shallow. Theres a deep spot behind the axle but it's only 12" front to back.

That's a potential cover photo right there...

If I recall, there was a Challenge 510 that had an engine in its passenger seat.

Sorry that you have to pull it, but now you have my first thought was lemons and lemonade time. So, what ya gonna do with it in bits? port the heads, CR bump, cam?? Come on back together stock is too boring.

You know, there are a lot of superchargers for 3800s from bonnevilles and rivieras out there. I'm just saying.

Just going to leave it stock. I like my 32mpg hwy and don't have the time/budget for any custom work.

I've only had the car a few months and already into it for a clutch, tires, brakes, swaybars and retrofitted power windows/locks/mirrors.

I'd rather be working on my Challenge car....

Gearheadotaku wrote: Just going to leave it stock. I like my 32mpg hwy and don't have the time/budget for any custom work.

Head skim is essentialy free if you're having them skimmed anyway duing the re-build, a bit more to up the CR. A few hours with the die grinder to port match the intake and exhaust ports. Together can provide a nice bump in response for zero impact on fuel econ for $0 outlay.

Adrian_Thompson wrote:

Gearheadotaku wrote: Just going to leave it stock. I like my 32mpg hwy and don't have the time/budget for any custom work.

Head skim is essentialy free if you're having them skimmed anyway duing the re-build, a bit more to up the CR. A few hours with the die grinder to port match the intake and exhaust ports. Together can provide a nice bump in response for zero impact on fuel econ for $0 outlay.

Theoretically MOAR compression = MOAR fuel economy.

Though it seems like it would be a E36 M3load faster and cheaper to just grab one of the billion 3800's in the junk yard for $500-800 rather than paying $600+ for machine work + near bearings and rings + your time to do the assembly or $1000-2000 for assembly.

What kind of oil? Extended drain?

Don't know what kind of oil the PO used. I've only had the car a short time.

car ran fine, used no oil and (I assume) had good compression. This is a repair, not a rebuild. RWD 3800's are different (I think) than FWD. Hoping just to clean and put in new bearings.

What is the city gas mileage?

Sludge sucks.

Just out of curiosity, did the car have a thermostat in it? Was it the correct temperature? I've seen an engine or two get gunked up because some well-meaning but clueless P/O removed the t-stat or replaced it with a 160 degree job. Usually to "fix" some other real issue.

But, man, 84k miles on a modern engine with modern oils. How the berkeley does that happen?

volvoclearinghouse wrote: Sludge sucks. Just out of curiosity, did the car have a thermostat in it? Was it the correct temperature? I've seen an engine or two get gunked up because some well-meaning but clueless P/O removed the t-stat or replaced it with a 160 degree job. Usually to "fix" some other real issue. But, man, 84k miles on a modern engine with modern oils. How the berkeley does that happen?

PO used the cheapest oil jiffy lube could find and hardly ever changed it. A sludged up engine could spend weeks in the hot tank getting cleaned up enough to be serviceable. If I pulled a core to rebuild from the junk yard that looked sludged up I'd bring it back, too much work.

volvoclearinghouse wrote: Sludge sucks. Just out of curiosity, did the car have a thermostat in it? Was it the correct temperature? I've seen an engine or two get gunked up because some well-meaning but clueless P/O removed the t-stat or replaced it with a 160 degree job. Usually to "fix" some other real issue. But, man, 84k miles on a modern engine with modern oils. How the berkeley does that happen?

Yes, exactly. Good friend checked it out and was in disbelief that a rod was rattling. 'this just doesn't happen with 3800's!" Haven't taken a close look at the t-stat yet, but a fresh one will go in regardless. The temp gauge was reading normal though, not cold.

Mr_Clutch42 wrote: What is the city gas mileage?

22-23. 5 speed w/3.23 gear.

I guess the moral of this story is even the strongest of engines can be defeated by a slackass owner if they try hard enough.

Gearheadotaku wrote: too shallow. Theres a deep spot behind the axle but it's only 12" front to back.

just out of curiosity.. what is under that huge hump in the trunk? If it is for axle clearance, that must be a truck axle under there

In reply to mad_machine:

Gas tank.

You call that sludge? You sir, live a privileged life.

All kidding aside, I'm sorry to see your engine bite the dirt with such low mileage.

Adrian_Thompson wrote:

Gearheadotaku wrote: Just going to leave it stock. I like my 32mpg hwy and don't have the time/budget for any custom work.

Head skim is essentialy free if you're having them skimmed anyway duing the re-build, a bit more to up the CR. A few hours with the die grinder to port match the intake and exhaust ports. Together can provide a nice bump in response for zero impact on fuel econ for $0 outlay.

THIS! Be careful with a die grinder( MIGHT be too aggressive)... but a bit of time with a Dremel, and a few sanding drums will do wonders!

I would just like to add that we have successfully made 23 replies, and not one mentions anything about an LS1.

Today, I am proud of us. Faith in GRM has been restored.

Gearheadotaku wrote: Don't know what kind of oil the PO used. I've only had the car a short time. car ran fine, used no oil and (I assume) had good compression. This is a repair, not a rebuild. RWD 3800's are different (I think) than FWD. Hoping just to clean and put in new bearings.

If its that far apart, why not at least hone the cylinders and put in new rings?

With the amount of work being put into it to clean it and replace bearings, rings shouldn't add much time or cost.

Long tubes would help. I second the suggestion of porting and bumping compression. Made huge difference in the motors ive rebuilt. Actually helps mpg in the engines ive done. But that may also be attributed to the fresh motoe.