you can always add a skid plate if it makes you feel better
http://www.jegs.com/p/Trans-Dapt/Trans-Dapt-Performance-Products-Slam-Guard-Oil-Pans/750265/10002/-1
Buy or copy one of these if you're really worried about it. Or you could integrate a heavy frame mounted plate into an undertray.
I think so far the best engine I have seen swapped into a TR6 was a Big BMW I6. Looked right at home there
After a ton of searching. It seems I have finally located a successful installation of a Small Block Chevy in a TR4 with out the hood cut up. Of course no build details, and no idea about how far they put it below the frame rails.... And that looks like a really restrictive air filter. Anybody recognize what carb that is?
In reply to Indy-Guy :depends on what you intend to do with the car. If you don't plan on a lot of off road driving or will do so only with extreme care you'd be amazed at how little ground clearance you can get by with.
My race cars I shoot for 2 inches or less and never have an issue. I've street driven it in the Bahamas California Wisconsin and here in Minnesota.
I come closet to hitting the flywheel/ transmission loading on and off the trailer
stuart in mn said:People have suggested the small block Ford - one thing to remember is the SBC oil pan has a rear sump, the SBF oil pan has a front sump (except for Broncos, which had a sort-of rear sump and an extended pickup on the oil pump). The layout of your car's crossmember will determine which is a better fit.
Or if you used a carb "hat" you could duct the inlet air from a remote air filter/cold air intake. This is way more than you should spend, but you should get the idea.
Sumps can be modified but with most of these old school V8s you'll always have a small sump on one end or the other for the oil pump that lives down there.
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