Spray Lubes and Rust Penetrants

I don't think we have discussed them in a while.

What are people using? Any new ones that should be looked at?

PB Blaster is first choice. I have a gallon of Kroil but no dispenser.

I had a can of sea foam that i thought was decent but dang was it expensive.

I always keep PB blaster around. It just works. One thing I found is to hit somthing with brake clean first then chase it with pb blaster.

Home made mix 50/50 acetone and ATF. Get a cheap pump or drip bottle from HF. Shake well before use.

In reply to jpnovak:

That sounds volatile.

For penetrant, PB Blaster is first choice, then if I have to, acetone/ATF. For spray(ish) lube, Break Free CLP. For sticky switches, WD40.

My go to spray lubricant is tri-flow. Great stuff. It's expensive but works well. It's not a penetrant though! It's for things like chains and rotating bushings and lock cylinders.

At one of my old jobs we got Kroil in 5 gal. cans, almost ten years ago now. My stash is down to ounces now, apply it w/ a syringe... but that's all you really need.

I bought into the 50/50 ATF Acetone thing a while back using a good made in USA squirt can to dispense it. After having used the main choices for years, this is better and incredibly cheaper.

I'm spoiled by having access to industrial penetrating oils that work much better than readily available retail options.

Kroil is pretty good. PB Blaster doesn't really work well anymore after they have changed the formulation over the years.

This stuff is absolutely fantastic for lubimg things that move.

https://www.winzerusa.com/?__event=browse_catalog&pid=4d89067ddcb2f7c33e943101

I've been using Break Free CLP for years.

But doesn't the acetone burn your Hootus?

PB Blaster Gets Crusty when it sets or gets heated up,quit it years ago. Mineral spirits or Kerosene when you need to keep the metal lubed,brake cleaner for quick clean up

Screwloose from CRC, a GRM Challenge sponsor!

In reply to dean1484:

CRC Freeze-Off. The cold temp cracks the rust allowing the penetrant to wick in further/better. That E36 M3 rocks!

After having to disassemble a Miata from Indianapolis to build my Exocet I found the Seafoam stuff to be the best when compared to WD-40 rust penetrant, PB blaster and CRC Freeze out but all worked OK. I usually started out by wire brushing then spraying liberally with oil of choice (Usually WD40 RP or PB blaster) Then after a sit I tried it. If that didn't work I went to heat from MAPP gas torch and more oil to be wicked in. If those both failed I switched to Seafoam and heat. The only bolts I had real issues with were the rear horizontal lower control arm to upright bolts. They had to be cut and drilled on before letting go.

Aerokroil if I remember to order it PB Blaster if I need some right this second.

Penetrant = Aero Kroil or PB Blaster if store has no Kroil gallons.

Spray Lube is one of many - white lithium, 3-in-1 or straight 30w in a hand sprayer or if electrical parts and water are involved, WD-40.

PB for convenience, EP (seems to stop galling) gear oil thinned out with paint thinner or whatever if it's really nasty.

PB works works especially well when left to sit. Then tap with hammer.

To remove pesky rust, I moved to Nevada

Penetrating oil.

Our number 1 used to be this:

Now it's our #2. Our #1 is something called Helper. I wish I could remember who makes it, but it is awesomeness in a can. On a whim, I took a caliper hanger from my VW that had siezed pins and put a little squirt under each boot. Two days later I picked it up and slid the slides out.

Downside: Helper is freaking expensive. I forget how much it costs, but we only use it where we can justify it. The upside is that you only need a very small amount, the previous can I started lasted ten months of use in a semi-busy shop. We go through a can of Kimball every three or four months, that stuff is relatively cheap though (IIRC we pay $14/can in case quantities, to give an idea of how expensive Helper is) so we use it where we need good penetrant but can't justify the expense.

When we just need oil to put on stuff, we have a squirt can of motor oil, or free samples of stuff from various suppliers. My favorite thing for hood latches is a few shots of whatever free sample of nasty penetrating oil we got recently, followed by a motor oil chaser. The penetrating oil pre-wets the crevices so the heavy stuff can get in there unhindered by surface tension effects.

Used to think PB Blaster was awesome. Kimball makes it look like water. Helper makes Kimball look like PB. The question is, do you want to make things come loose, or do you just want to spray something on a bolt to make you feel like you tried before you give up and cut it apart with the grinder?

In reply to Knurled:

It's not "Mechanics Helper" by Likarr is it? Found here: https://catalog.likarr.com/p/LIK001423-CS/Mechanic-s-Helper-Penetrating-Lubricant-18-oz-Net-Wt/