stupid Jeep

I got a Nanny for my kids because it was cheaper and better than daycare. I didn't realize that having a Nanny with no money meant I was her mechanic - without pay. I even pay for her parts most of the time. This one is bugging me.

It had an intermittent issue starting about a year ago. I had the starter tested and it worked but sounded like crap so I bought another one. I put it in and it worked for a while until it didn't again. I bought a new starter relay and that seemed to take care of it until today. Battery is still probably fine, starter is still probably fine, relay is still probably fine.

She got one click and nothing and now nothing at all. Starter switch? This is on a 96 Cherokee with the I6. it's in my driveway and won't move without me fixing it.

Make sure you are getting juice from the auto shutdown relay to the starter relay.

I'd start with the connections. Then the cables.

I don't think it has an auto shutdown relay - I could be wrong but I think I remember looking in that direction before. I'll check tonight. Battery cables look fine and starter connections are fine, obviously, I put them there!

Neutral/park starter switch OK? not loose or shorting out?

triumph5 wrote: Neutral/park starter switch OK? not loose or shorting out?

Good idea. It's an auto, so it'd be a park switch - I'll check that out tonight.

racinginc215 wrote: well the nanny can pay in other way's as long as Mrs Tuna does not find out.

The Nanny is easily 60 years old. I'll pass...

You're a kind soul Tuna55. Fixing up Mary Poppins's Jeep.

I forgot, can't she use her bumpershoot (sp) to get around until the Jeep's fixed? Although with this weather lightning might be a problem.

What's the voltage on the pull in circuit at the solenoid? I've seen problems with Harleys caused by low voltage there, resulting in "The Dreaded Click."

I know Wranglers better than Cherokees, but Jeep battery cables are E36 M3. Some have a fusible link in them (I have a bunch if you need one). At the very least, clean the grounds. New, fatter cables are never a bad idea.

Put an LS1 in it?

OP said battery is probably fine but was it tested

Did she have any problems getting the ignition key out occasionally? That would suggest that it's the selector? switch[1] at the gearbox. Ann's Cherokee had similar problems until we changed the switch.

[1] AKA the one that always goes bad on these. Neutral inhibitor switch or something along those lines.

BoxheadTim wrote: Did she have any problems getting the ignition key out occasionally? That would suggest that it's the selector? switch[1] at the gearbox. Ann's Cherokee had similar problems until we changed the switch. [1] AKA the one that always goes bad on these. Neutral inhibitor switch or something along those lines.

That happened on my nephew's Cherokee. I forgot about that.

They are known for an input (or output ???) sensor on the transmission going bad and causing the no-start.

Drivers side, back of the trans near the motor from underneath. Have fun.

I got to the Jeep. Something electrical is pissing it off. It started fine 2 hours before it didn't and I've had her test the battery in the past 6 mos, so I figured it wasn't that. When I got here the battery was dead flat. I had to jump it and use my jump box and that barely did it. I saw under 14v on the OBD2 so I figured the alternator belt was slipping (it was) and not charging. I replaced it with one I had for her for when it inevitably broke (she was saving for it and didn't know I had it). Charging system still sucks. Pegged the throttle at 2k for 1/2 hour and no charge on the battery. Looking for current draws now.

Oh, and thing has a E36 M3ty stereo install, a E36 M3ty CB radio install and a E36 M3ty radar detector install. All by different E36 M3ty mechanics. All hard wired. I think even the turn signal flasher is hard wired on this pig.

Update. Just found a bonified wire not - like on a house. It connects a big fat red wire to a big fat yellow wire under the dash. Each wire is then sliced into something with a crimp butt connector. I figured: "This has got to be something bad".

You know what it was?

The berkeleying starter.

People who enjoy Jeff Foxworthy or Larry "the Cable guy" should not perform work under the guise of how big a redneck they are or whether or not they need to Git R Dun....

Morons.

For future reference, never assume the connections are good because they look good. I can't tell you how many hours I flagged as a tech fixing connections that looked good. I bet 75% of the "Need new battery" or "need new alternator" complaints were dirty connections either at the batter, ground, starter or junction box. Oh, and the 4.0L engines are famous for the crank position sensors going bad.

I have been in the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor about six months ago.

For the update, with a good battery it cranked and ran fine. I lent her mine and had her get hers tested. I did this because I am hungry and I don't want to dive into this electrical system if it didn't do anything more ridiculous than normal. We'll see what she says.

I checked cable condition by voltage drop across connections. It looked good from what my crummy multimeter could tell me.

jamscal wrote: They are known for an input (or output ???) sensor on the transmission going bad and causing the no-start. Drivers side, back of the trans near the motor from underneath. Have fun.

Did you check this? It's a neutral safety switch. Hugely common failure point on A/T equipped Jeeps.

Tuna, how hot is it there? I'm fortunate that I don't have any pressing car issues in this 95+ degree heat.