Tell me to (or not to) buy a 2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T

I've posted a lot of threads about my aging and rusting GMT900. Well, after finding some terminal rust, it's time to part ways and replace it with another DD. 

After reading about my favorite hand model's thread about his 9-3, I decided to start looking for a low sodium chloride example south of the Mason-Dixon Line. Found a deal on one with sub 100k miles.

Tell me why this is a good or bad idea. How are these things in the snow? What are the main issues? Any fun reliable upgrades for these since they have a tarbo? 

Soft valves in these will eventually lead to cold start issues in cold weather due to loss of compression. Local Saab specialist will gladly fix it for $2,000.  It is a head off complete rebuilt of the head and then there is the whole while you are there parts list that can easily add another $500-1,000 in parts. Oh and to DIY it you need special tools to properly lock down the cams and then align them for re assembly.  These are not cheep as they are sold in sets for the different variants of this motor.  
 

My 07 has the problem. I have never not been able to not start it but get the best AGM battery for it as it will need lots of cold cranking at WOT to get it to start when it is really cold.  A used motor is not really an option as unless it has documentation that it was fixed or is late enough for it to have been fixed in the factory you will be swapping it again at 100-120k miles.  

I've pondered the same question recently since I've seen a few Saabs pop up recently that look like fun DD cars.  They did make quite a few variations of the 9-3.  6cl & 4cyl turbo.  Sedan, Sportcombi (wagon), convertible.  manual, auto.  Plenty of GM parts-bin engineering in this era, but I'm not too familar w/the specifics. 

On the flip side these are great driving cars. They have a nice weighted stearing and the motor when it is running properly has deceptively good pep. You will find your self 10-15 over the limit with out noticing. 

I had a 2008 9-3 with a 2.0 T. It was a great car, ran generally trouble free, great to drive. Sold with 167K on it and it ran like a top. That is in cold country too. I eventually sold it due to rust around the rear wheel wells, its a very typical rust spot on these cars.

There is a Saab specialty shop close to me that I bought it from and they did service on it. They are good people and a good resource. Tired Iron

In reply to Scotty Con Queso :

You already know my opinion on these. I got one that was well-maintained. I'm really just posting to thank you for your continued support of my hand modeling. One day I'm gonna get back to that.

dean1484 said:

Soft valves in these will eventually lead to cold start issues in cold weather due to loss of compression. Local Saab specialist will gladly fix it for $2,000.  It is a head off complete rebuilt of the head and then there is the whole while you are there parts list that can easily add another $500-1,000 in parts. Oh and to DIY it you need special tools to properly lock down the cams and then align them for re assembly.  These are not cheep as they are sold in sets for the different variants of this motor.  
 

My 07 has the problem. I have never not been able to not start it but get the best AGM battery for it as it will need lots of cold cranking at WOT to get it to start when it is really cold.  A used motor is not really an option as unless it has documentation that it was fixed or is late enough for it to have been fixed in the factory you will be swapping it again at 100-120k miles.  

We've had an '08 9-3 SportCombi 2.0T/6M for about 4.5 years. At 75k-ish miles, the cold start misfire showed up. They really just need intake valves, but you're right about the while-you're-in-theres. I had a head rebuilt and swapped on last year. 

We bought the car from the original owner (one of my best friends' fathers) with around 60k miles on it. It immediately needed an A/C recharged (weird, because it hasn't needed one since) and the sunroof tracks cleaned. I've had to unplug the doors a couple of times when the anti-pinch BS starts to get pissy. Within a year or so, the clutch started slipping inconsistently. It turned out to be the (dumb) dual mass flywheel starting to fail. A new clutch and flywheel were cheap from RockAuto. The fuel gauge sender and front swaybar endlinks died and were replaced last year when the head was done. Very soon after that, the vacuum pump started making noise at full boost. I swapped it earlier this year before we took the car on vacation. I think (hope) I'm over the hump with this car, but it doesn't matter. My wife loves it and won't let me sell it, so I'll just give it whatever it wants. Ours no longer sees winter use, so I hope the body lasts a while.

It really does drive great and looks great doing it. They're easy to maintain and modify, and parts have been relatively cheap and easy as well.

Even with the roofbox, A/C, traffic, and extra-legal speeds when possible, it averaged 27MPG on our beach trip this summer. Here's a shot from that adventure:

Sample size of one. My Dad gave my oldest an 06 2.0T vert, he wanted to get away from the optical audio thing.  He bought it with @ 36K miles, it currently has just under 280K and the motor has never been apart, its actually still on its original clutch.  My son really didn't want it, strange kid, so its my DD and over all its fun to drive.  Has enough power, handles well enough and still looks good.

Thanks all. It looks like the self destructing intake valves are (mostly) limited to 2007-2008 models. I'll make my search narrow in on the '10 and '11 model years. 

There is a nice 2011 example local to me at a car lot but it has 145k and he's at $6k firm. I think better deals are out there. 

Is it dumb that I emailed about a 2008 in great shape (minutes) from my house for $1,000? I could get it for $500 and replace the head. Crazy? 

In reply to Powar :

The SportCombi is 100% in the running. Any tips on the head replacement? Did you replace the timing chain? 

I am driving this one while I am in Florida.  It belongs to a friend that bought it after the good luck we have had with our over the years.  After selling the last one to Angrycorvair we are with our at least one Saab in the first time since 1998.

Buy it with the view it is disposable. Near-zero resale and if it gets hit it will get totaled. I can't remember the last time I had a claim on a Saab and we didn't send it to Copart.

In reply to ddavidv :

"Near-zero resale" in today's used market means you'll only get $3500 for it.

Pick a dozen parts that you might need for it, and phone the Saab dealer to check price and availability.

"Saab dealer".

That's funny right there.

In reply to ddavidv :

That is why most lenders won't loan for one, and a lot of insurers won't touch them.

Of course you can't find a Saab dealer but I never had any problems finding parts. IIRC there is a fair amount of GM influence by that time so isn't there some interchangeability? Maybe that is a brakes and 2.0T thing. I thought the base engine was basically the GM engine but had a Saab specific water pump or something. Not at all the same story for the ecu and electronics, I had no success getting an automatic starter (and was told by multiple professional installers it wasn't possible).

Edit: This statement isn't true for body parts and some strange things like interior components, no aftermarket, and all junkyard. The insurance statements above are 100% true I have seen that a bunch.