Tell me what is wrong with this idea??

Need to bleed the brakes on the Ranger this weekend, along with a full brake service and a whole list of other maintenance items. I didn't feel like buying a power bleeder, at least this time, and I couldn't find speedbleeders in stock locally, so this is what I came up with. Tell me if there is something I am not thinking of, but this seems like it should work the same, and cost very little.

1. A one way check valve like this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/495/=kk6rk6

2. Length of plastic tube

3. Attach to bleed screw, and use like a speedbleeder?

Any thoughts????

Should work if the seal between the tube, one-way valve and bleeder holds. Just make sure the outside of the bleeder screws are clean before you start.

Yeah, I figured I would use a few small hose clamps if I don't feel like it is sealing well.

The system could possibly suck air past the threads on the bleeder screws... Teflon tape could fix that maybe...

Use the vacuum from the engine to bleed the lines. Get a couple of long pieces of vinyl tubing, some scrap brake line and a quart jar with a lid. Poke 2 holes in the lid for the brake line pieces. Seal the lines to the lid with your favorite sealant. Screw the lid to the jar. Put the vinyl lines on the lines coming out of the jar. Put one line on the bleeder and the other on a vacuum port on the intake. Start the car, open the bleeder and Bob's your uncle. Be careful not to drain your reservoir as it can bleed out fast.

Some problem with the two man system?

when stuck bleeding something myself with no one to help me, I have, in a pinch, put a tight fitting piece of vinyl tubing (like aquarium hose or whate have you) over the bleeding, cracked the bleeder just enought open, and run the tube down into a clear jar of new brake fluid. if you pump the brakes slowly and keep the reservoir topped off, it will eventually stop bubbling and give you a firm pedal. It wastes a bit more brake fluid, but without speed bleeders or a vacuum bleeder its the only way I've really found to do it.

I built a pressure bleeder by fitting a hose barb to a spare master cylinder cap and hooking it to a cheap sprayer from Ace Hardware. Works like a champ.
It cost me less than $20.

I thought about building the pressure bleeder, but the ford reservoir cap doesn't seal tight, it just locks on with three tabs. Unless I can seal the cap, I don't see how to make that work?

It will still work, just run less pressure. You only need a little pressure (say 3-5psi) to make it work. Obviously more pressure means the job will go faster, but at lower pressure you might be able to at least finish your beer....

Also the fancy sealed Motive caps are available separately online.

Just pump the brakes when you stop. Then there's no need to bleed

**Disclaimer-don't listen to a thing I say, I'm an idiot

I've been using this harbor freight bleeder for a number of years and it has worked well. It is an upgrade of the tubing into a can/jar full of fluid.

http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man-brake-bleeder-kit-37201.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17676.jpg

Mine did not come with magnet so I just did a hanger from a piece of wire, usually hang it from a hole in the frame or the brake line etc. Sometimes air can get in between the bleeder screw threads but then I just bleed it again.

Good luck

I am not recomending this but i have first. Pumoed out abouta a quater cup of brake fluidit into a jar until i thinkg i have removed enough of the fluid so it runs clear. I then run a clear tube from the bleader to the resiwar of the master and pump the nrakes untill there are no bubbles in the fluid. If you get a leak at the bleader threds you will see bubbles in the line going to the master.

yes thats essentially what I do, however, youre better off starting with brake fluid in the jar. speeds it up and keeps more air out of the system. I also in no way recommend that system, and I usually follow it up with 2 man bleeding asap.

also saw a mention of harbor frieght bleeder, tried one of those, the plastic and tubing got all discolored and distorted after its first exposure to brake fluid. Maybe I just got a bad one.

gravity bleeding works just fine ... takes a while but you can do it without any help .. crack the bleed screw and just wait ... keep an eye on the MC ..don't ever let it too empty

oh and never use teflon tape on the threads of your bleeder screws ... you can use the liquid type, but the tape will eventually disintegrate, causing all kinds of problems

I coat bleeder screw threads w/ antiseize and daub the outside too to keep corrosion away... at least for a little while.

I've never actually had gravity bleeding work for me.

I tried a bunch of ways to do bleeding, but I finally broke down and bought this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

Put a little teflon sealer paste on the threads of the bleeder screw, hook this guy up to your air compressor and the bleeder nipple, and it only takes a minute or two per corner to get all of the bubbles/old dirty fluid out.

Works waaaaay better than a $25 tool has the right to.