In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
That's exactly what the eco is. Love the Quad4. The NVH just adds to the charm
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
That's exactly what the eco is. Love the Quad4. The NVH just adds to the charm
In reply to Datsun310Guy :
more A-series love. As for the head gaskets at 90K that's probably 60-70s technology limits. My A15 came form a 210 that had about 145k on it. It was still running.
ShawnG said:Bad crank seals don't make a 4-stroke run like garbage, they just drip a little.
4-strokes also don't stink, sound awful or have a power curve like a light switch.
So in 45 years of owning and racing two strokes I've only had two do this.
The first one was a result of letting the bike sit and it took all of 2hrs to repair. The runway idle is the dead give away.
The second one was the motor in my F500; the bottom end had been untouched for 10 years. It had 13 races & 80 auto crosses on it.
As for stinking Castrol R smells great.
As for sounding awful Yamaha RDs & TZs sound great as do Kawasaki triples. 500cc GP bikes were other worldly.
Finally as to the light switch powerband; you need to ride a KTM 300 or Honda CR500. Snowmobile engines also have tons of torque.
ShawnG said:Tom1200 said:Two strokes; people who've never ran or tuned one act like they will sieze if you even look at them funny.
They are lighter, make more power and are easier to service than four strokes.
Bad crank seals don't make a 4-stroke run like garbage, they just drip a little.
4-strokes also don't stink, sound awful or have a power curve like a light switch.
Bad valves will make a 4 stroke run like garbage, if you can get it to start. Ask a Honda owner. I've run 2 stroke oil in my generator that has no smoke and no smell. I had to double check that I actually put oil on the gas. And 2 strokes don't inherently have a narrow power band, quite the opposite. They can be made smoother and easier to ride than a 4 stroke. And I've never had a crank seal go bad, and I've owned a lot of 2 strokes. From an amateur racer's perspective I would say the modern 4 strokes are squarely in the horrible category
In reply to Peabody :
I had a crank seal go bad on the Kaw 440 in the Fmod. A bad crank seal does two things. Because the intake charge is pulled in by the compression stroke of the piston if the seal is bad the low pressure is canceled out by the high pressure from the other cylinder. For the same reason, if you are running a pulse type fuel pump you get no fuel. And, yes, it was a pain in the a$$ to find!
Edit: The bad seal doesn't make it run like garbage, it makes it not run at all!
In reply to triumph7 :
The high EGTs and idle give it away.
The other bonus is 2-strokes are light.
Nobody mentioned the 2.0 from the TR7? Up to the point where the corrosion simulates a failed head gasket and ultimately welds the head to the block they aren't horrid... much.
Tom1200 said:In reply to triumph7 :
The high EGTs and idle give it away.
The other bonus is 2-strokes are light.
I never got high EGTs but it got to be a real pain to start
In reply to Tom1200 :
I too love the smell of Castrol R.
triumph7 said:Tom1200 said:In reply to triumph7 :
The high EGTs and idle give it away.
The other bonus is 2-strokes are light.
I never got high EGTs but it got to be a real pain to start
Typically once they start losing compression they do become a bear to get started.
In reply to triumph7 :
I am kind of surprised that Mercury Marine two-strokes run at all. The one I played with was a V6 with a shared crankcase, and instead of a setup like I imagine your engine had, the bottoms of the cylinders were closed off except for a slot in the middle for the connecting rod to pass through.
Peabody said:As was the Mitsubishi Saturn. I put a lot of hard laps on 4G32's at decent RPM and you couldn't hurt them
Surprisingly stout little motors. not a ton of power, but the ones I ran loved to be abused (anything but detonation under boost) I prefer the early pre-balance shaft motors
te72 said:Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:Growl_R said:How 'bout Volkswagen's VR6 and it's W8, 12 and 16 variants?
Used in VW, Audi, Porsche, Bentley, and Bugatti
Compact, can make power and SOUND AWESOME!
Sell me on this. If I pick up the AE70 Corolla I'm hoping for, I'll be looking for something that fits where a 4-banger was and makes lots of gooder power. I just know nothing about them.
Much as an E70 with extra cylinders would be fun, my inclination as a fellow (former) E70 owner would be to put one of these engines in it:
5-valve 4AGE from an AE111, because they sound awesome and make 160hp out of the gate, with a bit more on the table if you want. Plus, factory ITB's. Did I mention the awesome sound? They sound awesome. Likely my favorite 4-cylinder sound ever. Something about Yamaha makes good sounds. They should make instruments and audio equipment, they clearly know what they're doing! =P
3SGE Beams, if you wanna keep it in the family but want an easy 200+hp.
K20/K24 if you wanna drop a few lbs, add displacement, and make Formual Atlantic power without FA maintenance.
I know I need to get out of my own way, but I'm still stuck in my hot rodding history. To me, making 200hp at 8000 rpms is a yawnfest, but making 500hp at 6000 rpm is my norm. Of course, it takes a 700 lb V8 lump to do it. I've driven some fast-straight-line cars, like a blown 502 making 1000+ hp, and I've driven some "quick" cars with 140 hp. I'm still stuck in this world of combining bigger power with a light car. I was hoping for at least a square 250hp, maybe a touch more. Not so much that I'm pointed the wrong direction out of every corner when I get back on it, but high 12s would be nice in a straight line.
A snowmobile has a cvt, it runs the engine at peak power all the time so you don't notice the power curve.
I'm just unable to appreciate ring-a-ding stinkbikes properly. Sorry.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:te72 said:Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:Growl_R said:How 'bout Volkswagen's VR6 and it's W8, 12 and 16 variants?
Used in VW, Audi, Porsche, Bentley, and Bugatti
Compact, can make power and SOUND AWESOME!
Sell me on this. If I pick up the AE70 Corolla I'm hoping for, I'll be looking for something that fits where a 4-banger was and makes lots of gooder power. I just know nothing about them.
Much as an E70 with extra cylinders would be fun, my inclination as a fellow (former) E70 owner would be to put one of these engines in it:
5-valve 4AGE from an AE111, because they sound awesome and make 160hp out of the gate, with a bit more on the table if you want. Plus, factory ITB's. Did I mention the awesome sound? They sound awesome. Likely my favorite 4-cylinder sound ever. Something about Yamaha makes good sounds. They should make instruments and audio equipment, they clearly know what they're doing! =P
3SGE Beams, if you wanna keep it in the family but want an easy 200+hp.
K20/K24 if you wanna drop a few lbs, add displacement, and make Formual Atlantic power without FA maintenance.
I know I need to get out of my own way, but I'm still stuck in my hot rodding history. To me, making 200hp at 8000 rpms is a yawnfest, but making 500hp at 6000 rpm is my norm. Of course, it takes a 700 lb V8 lump to do it. I've driven some fast-straight-line cars, like a blown 502 making 1000+ hp, and I've driven some "quick" cars with 140 hp. I'm still stuck in this world of combining bigger power with a light car. I was hoping for at least a square 250hp, maybe a touch more. Not so much that I'm pointed the wrong direction out of every corner when I get back on it, but high 12s would be nice in a straight line.
Getting a "light car" is at least to me, something around 2500 pounds (+or - 200) with 5-600 horsepower but a nice flat torque curve.
At my age a longer, wider car is nice and predictable compared to the short and narrow Car I used to race. It reduces the places I can pass so some of the darting and weaving I used to do is gone. But the power to weight should be better.
triumph7 said:Nobody mentioned the 2.0 from the TR7? Up to the point where the corrosion simulates a failed head gasket and ultimately welds the head to the block they aren't horrid... much.
Were those the ones with one row of head bolts (studs?) angled so the head could be installed and removed as an assembly? Have heard horror stories about that.
And the sixes that ran the cam directly in iron. Not a good plan. A friend was telling me about how his TR6 ground the cam bores so low that, after line boring for cam bearings, there was an air gap under the bearings.
I'm more entertained by "good" engines that I think are scrap. Specifically, the BMW M42. Timing chains
, and I once bought three engines trying to find a crank with a thrust surface intact.
In reply to Streetwiseguy :
The amazing 383 unicorn of Chevy Fandom.
Somehow putting a 400 crank in a 350 is more wonderful than just building the damn 400 it came out of.
In reply to ShawnG :
It saved on trying to find a uncracked 400 block plus the the way overblown overheating from the Siamese bores.
ShawnG said:A snowmobile has a cvt, it runs the engine at peak power all the time so you don't notice the power curve.
I'm just unable to appreciate ring-a-ding stinkbikes properly. Sorry.
Two strokes are not for everyone.
As for the CVT yes it does help but snowmobile motors typical have larger twin cylinder motors that make power between 4-8K. My little Datsun has to be spun to 8200 rpm and falls off severely below 6500 rpm.
Tom1200 said:In reply to Datsun310Guy :
more A-series love. As for the head gaskets at 90K that's probably 60-70s technology limits. My A15 came form a 210 that had about 145k on it. It was still running.
Didn't the A series come in the b210s?
My mom had 2 of those over the years, she ran it out of oil once and locked it up. When it cooled in the morning my dad refilled it with oil and it started right back up, she had it for years afterwards too
The Ford FE engines aren't well thought of in some circles, specifically the truck 352/360/390 for some reason.
Sure they are heavy and not particularly powerful but they do great truck stuff IMO. My dad had many old Ford trucks when I was growing up and they were all reliable and very long lasting. One was many years past worn out and still ran when we pulled it. My dad had run straight 50w and STP Oil treatment in it for years by this point and it finally stopped showing any oil pressure, and not just at idle. I was about 13 when we pulled it but I remember the last few times we ran it that it was showing about 1 psi at highway speeds. It smoked like hell but it always started and ran, how the hell it didn't blow is beyond me. Years later he told me he cracked open the engine and it was basically full of grease
In reply to Ranger50 :
It isn't so much the siamese bores that are an issue, it is the 2.65 mains that take material away from the already-weak bottom end.
Scotty Con Queso said:In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
You're not wrong on timing belts. While easy enough to properly time a 4g63, there is a very specific way to tension the belt. So much so that most people did it wrong and lunched the valve train.
Back when I worked at a Hyundai dealer I used to always just call their version Sirius Junk. The timing belt change mileage was 60k miles and you weren't going to make it to 70k. The belts would just start shedding teeth and then the timing would jump and things ran into each other.
At the same time I saw one once drive to the shop with a misfire and a noise. It had a rod bearing gone and had managed to still run with enough slop in that cylinder that it would hit the spark plug and close the gap. But it still ran on the other three so there is that?
Also for what it's worth I always hated the Mitsu derived 3.o and 3.5 V6s.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Yep, that was them. When the head warped it just locked onto those angled studs. I tried to use my engine hoist to pull the head off and ended up lifting the front of the car.
You'll need to log in to post.
