The year is 2030 and will we....

Instead of updating like we do now, we'll be backdating.

Thanks everyone for the responses. I think I now understand what my kids will go through when they take my DL away:-)

One of things that will make working today's car is the tight packaging. Do you see that as an issue?

In reply to Sultan:

Definately! I dispise having to force my arms through spaces that they don't fit in order to reach fasteners or components. I don't think designers always consider maintenance in their designs. All of the mechanics I worked with @ Brit. car dealerships bitched about pulling XJ12 work orders that required engine compartment work. Steering rack replacement was a big hassle.

it greatly depends on the car. My '05 mustang is a much more open layout and more service-friendly than my '97 Explorer. Our '05 MINI on the other hand is really tight, obviously. The same caveats apply, though. you have to learn to think about the steps to remove all the in-the-way parts as just another part of the repair. Once you get used to the logic of the assembly, tight packaging isn't any worse but it can take longer.

One other thing I'll mention - even with tighter packaging and more complex engineering, the modern stuff is often easier to me because the tolerances are better. you get a replacement part and it just freakin bolts up. On the old stuff (pre 75 or older) I always had to hammer, drill, adjust, struggle to get a part to fit. It took me 2 days once to put a motormount on my 70 Impala with a 350SBC.

In reply to ultraclyde:

one of the problems with the "i need suchandsuch for a 350 chevy" parts requests...

I'll be driving 80s and 90s cars until the day i die.

So in response to the OP (I think):

How comfortable are you with working on batteries? I guess upgrades are going to be simple though. Tired of 200 ft-lbs of torque? Get the Haynes manual:

1.) Unplug the harness from the motor

2.) Unbolt the 6 17mm bolts that attach the motor to the differential

3.) Get a friend to help you support the motor from below while you lift it out (be careful not to hurt your back--the motor can weigh up to 70 pounds)

4.) Unpackage high performance, brushless motor

5.) Installation is opposite of removal

6.) Enjoy 400 ft-lbs of torque at 0 RPM

Break-in procedure: N/A

egnorant wrote: By then, Pertronics or someone will have a complete controller that will "hide inside that clunky old computer box, uplink with latest implants, provide real time monitoring and updates. Will even emulate OBD codes for that ultimate retro look."

I don't think there is going to be much need for reproduction ECUs. Most of the time, control units just plain don't break. The usual weak point is the wiring harness or certain sensors. The only exception has been some '90s era cars have had capacitors that fail, but the enthusiast community has usually figured out how to replace them if the problem is caught before anything catches on fire. At most, you might see a cottage industry of OEM ECU rebuilding services, much like the carburetor gurus out there today.

ultraclyde wrote: One other thing I'll mention - even with tighter packaging and more complex engineering, the modern stuff is often easier to me because the tolerances are better. you get a replacement part and it just freakin bolts up. On the old stuff (pre 75 or older) I always had to hammer, drill, adjust, struggle to get a part to fit. It took me 2 days once to put a motormount on my 70 Impala with a 350SBC.

Now that's funny. I have worked on a LOT of early 70s stuff and some late 60s. Everything I worked on, everything lined up and bolted in without an issue.

Guess it helps that those cars were from europe?

My cars from the 90s/00s have always been easy to work on. And now most documentation is available in a PDF form, so it wont get lost over the years like the documentation for the older cars.

But, as cars get older, parts will become less and less available, so that will ultimately determine what I choose to play with. My Saturn wagon, which could be one of the easiest cars in the world to work on, already has a couple parts I would like to replace, but can't buy. Same could be said for my 91 300zx (sold).

funny that cars from the 60s and 70s will be 60-70 years old by 2030. That's the equivalent of 1940's and 50's cars right now...