I’ve come across a 96 Honda Accord EX which looks to fit into my “budget” for a rallyX car. But I don’t know much about Honda cars. It has 260k on it so I will do a compression test.
Here is what he has said about it: VTech motor with performance mods CAI, DC header, cruise control and airbag steering wheel removed. Comes with over $2500 new in box performance suspension and exhaust upgrades ready to be installed. Koni, Skunk2, Megan Racing, etc. As far as I can tell this is all fine with me.
He also said: Cat is punched out will not pass emissions = MIL light. No emissions tests where I live so that is OK. Should I look for anything else in regard to the MIL light?
Another thing he said that I would like some input on: Idles inconsistent.
Should I have any specific concern about this?
Last question: Would I want one for RX?
Thank you
I would not want THAT one - that is a Mod class car now.
I had a 95 Accord EX. I don't think it had any kind of VTEC from the factory. It was a great car, but there was absolutely nothing sporty about it. I can imagine it being terrible at Rallycross.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:
I would not want THAT one - that is a Mod class car now.
I'm not fully up to speed on the rallyX rules. Which mods take it above Prepared?
Woody (Forum Supportum) said:
I had a 95 Accord EX. I don't think it had any kind of VTEC from the factory. It was a great car, but there was absolutely nothing sporty about it. I can imagine it being terrible at Rallycross.
My brief Wiki research says the 96 EX got a VTEC.
wae
PowerDork
6/5/23 6:04 p.m.
L5wolvesf said:
Pete. (l33t FS) said:
I would not want THAT one - that is a Mod class car now.
I'm not fully up to speed on the rallyX rules. Which mods take it above Prepared?
Not entirely sure on the other stuff, but the cat being punched out does that for sure.
L5wolvesf said:
Pete. (l33t FS) said:
I would not want THAT one - that is a Mod class car now.
I'm not fully up to speed on the rallyX rules. Which mods take it above Prepared?
It sounds like it may have an engine swap (not Honda expert re: trim levels)
No converter (some sort of cat required for Prepared, OE converter required for Stock)
Cruise control removed (pretty sure you cannot remove accessories in Prepared)
I mean, depending on your local group, nobody may give a crap, but someone might raise a stinkeye.
On a different level of focus, when you buy a car you are buying a product of the previous owners' habits, and everything in that ad screams run away. At least he didn't berk it up too badly by installing all of the suspension junk. And 99% of it IS junk...
L5wolvesf said:
Woody (Forum Supportum) said:
I had a 95 Accord EX. I don't think it had any kind of VTEC from the factory. It was a great car, but there was absolutely nothing sporty about it. I can imagine it being terrible at Rallycross.
My brief Wiki research says the 96 EX got a VTEC.
My bad. I thought they were identical, other than the tail lights and bumpers.
Woody (Forum Supportum) said:
L5wolvesf said:
Woody (Forum Supportum) said:
I had a 95 Accord EX. I don't think it had any kind of VTEC from the factory. It was a great car, but there was absolutely nothing sporty about it. I can imagine it being terrible at Rallycross.
My brief Wiki research says the 96 EX got a VTEC.
My bad. I thought they were identical, other than the tail lights and bumpers.
No worries, all the input I get keeps me on my toes.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:
L5wolvesf said:
Pete. (l33t FS) said:
I would not want THAT one - that is a Mod class car now.
I'm not fully up to speed on the rallyX rules. Which mods take it above Prepared?
It sounds like it may have an engine swap (not Honda expert re: trim levels)
No converter (some sort of cat required for Prepared, OE converter required for Stock)
Cruise control removed (pretty sure you cannot remove accessories in Prepared)
I mean, depending on your local group, nobody may give a crap, but someone might raise a stinkeye.
On a different level of focus, when you buy a car you are buying a product of the previous owners' habits, and everything in that ad screams run away. At least he didn't berk it up too badly by installing all of the suspension junk. And 99% of it IS junk...
Re engine swap: see my response above to Woody.
Re converter: if necessary I could replace it with a relatively inexpensive “universal’ cat.
Re Cruise control: wrecking yard if he doesn’t have the parts. Either way I won’t use it.
Re local group: they don’t run Prepared here. I thought it was odd because, based on my limited read of the rules, a number of them could. But I imagine that could change.
Re buying a product of the previous owner: Yeah, I’ve dealt with po mangled cars before. My eyes are wide open on finding a serviceable rallyX car and why I’m asking questions here. I don’t plan on falling in love until I go through whatever I buy.
I am a bit wary of this car but the price is negotiable and the guy seems to have been up front . . . so far.
Re junk: is Koni no longer a quality product?
If it does have vtec its still the F22 so 145 hp vs 130, nothing too exciting on a that one. The B16 was the darling of that era gave ya like 160. That gen was one of the finest people haulers as we've had both a sedan and wagon in the family growing up. Honestly I think the 89 I learned to drive on was quicker and handled better. The only ones I've known to be tracked or autocrossed have been H22 swapped.
When it comes to rallycross I wouldn't worry about class at all unless I was chasing nationals. If you are looking to improve driving skills and have lots of fun, get a car you don't mind abusing a bit and keep the stock ride height and enjoy.
The best rallycross cars are ones that you don't give a Berkeley about thrashing about and are reliable enough to handle it and easy enough to work on that you don't hate them when they can't. Secondary to that is suspension travel, a short wheelbase, available limited slip differential, then power output.
I wouldn't say no to an accord of that vintage, but I'd ask if you could find a straight, rust free, Civic, Focus, Neon, Golf, Accent or Sentra at the same price point.
If the question was "I already have this accord, should I rallyx it?" I would say yes, you will be in mod but go have fun. But since the question is should you buy the car for that I'm gonna say no. It leaves your only option as mod class unless you put a fair amount of money and time into it, plus you will be trying to sort out all the nonsense the previous owner did. Plus an accord isn't a great starting point for rallyx. Small and light is the name of the game. Civics of the same vintage did quite well in SF and PF when I used to run.
So unless this car is so stupidly cheap that you cant say no, then I would say no.
Doesn't that generation of Accord have the lower ball joint in the knuckle instead of the lower control arm? I seem to recall they were a bit prone to failures and the car going for a "Kachow!" stance. Would worry me if the rallycross course is pretty rough.
In Reply to eastsideTim: this would worry me too. Thanks for the 411.
In Reply to gearheadmb: the price is just OK
In Reply to Captdownshift:
I’m in AZ so rust isn’t much of an issue. Not a fan of VWs or Nissans. Civic, Focus, Neon and a few others, are on my list. Finding them at reasonable prices and no too far away has been the challenge.
In Reply to AnthonyGS: I want the car to be completive enough to at least consider a trip to nationals. I’ve raced UN-completive cars and it wasn’t as fun as a completive car.
In Reply to johndej: based on my research it should be the F22. For this project I don’t care to do a swap.
If you want to go to nationals, like as a goal and not just a whim-adventure, I'd start with as stock and well maintained as you can get. Breakage sucks and the stupidest things bump you out of class, like steering wheels or cruise control etc.
Whim-adventure is not a bad idea, mind you, but one needs to define one's goals before moving forward.
eastsideTim said:
Doesn't that generation of Accord have the lower ball joint in the knuckle instead of the lower control arm? I seem to recall they were a bit prone to failures and the car going for a "Kachow!" stance. Would worry me if the rallycross course is pretty rough.
All Hondas with loaded ball joints do that. You have to check them scam-artist style with a prybar to check for vertical play. I have seen Hondas with zero lateral play blow the ball joints apart because they had 1/4" of vertical play.
People are overjoyed at Honda moving away from struts again. I see it as reintroducing a maintenance issue.
Extra fun is when you break axles often enough that you wear out the threads on the ball joint and you rip the ball joint out of the control arm and the nut at the same time. Saw that one happen in Michigan. And they had no way to put it back together because the threads were destroyed.
L5wolvesf said:
In Reply to eastsideTim: this would worry me too. Thanks for the 411.
In Reply to gearheadmb: the price is just OK
In Reply to Captdownshift:
I’m in AZ so rust isn’t much of an issue. Not a fan of VWs or Nissans. Civic, Focus, Neon and a few others, are on my list. Finding them at reasonable prices and no too far away has been the challenge.
In Reply to AnthonyGS: I want the car to be completive enough to at least consider a trip to nationals. I’ve raced UN-completive cars and it wasn’t as fun as a completive car.
In Reply to johndej: based on my research it should be the F22. For this project I don’t care to do a swap.
You really want to go to nationals and compete. Get the best 100% stock car you can buy FWD or AWD and spend a lot of money on seat time. You will need to rallycross every weekend for a few years to be at the pointy end.
