Tie Rod End Removal?

In addition to installing a roll bar, springs, brakes and brake lines this week, I'm also hoping to de-power the steering rack in my Miata.

Can the tie rod ends be removed without damage and reused? Will I need a special tool, or can I use a generic puller?

To remove them from the steering knuckle try loosening the nut until it is a little unthreaded from the stud, but not completely. Give if a firm whack with a good size hammer. most of the time they will pop free without damaging the boot like a pickle fork would.

+1 for above, but flip the castle nut over. That way you don't mash up the nuts nubs. (Miata tie rods use castles nuts, right?)

My step Dad was a Mechanic for Oldsmobile garage, and taught me when I was very young, and not much interested in cars. to give a good whack on the housing that the tie rod goes into. When we started taking Miata apart, I had forgotten about that, and bought pickle forks, even one that goes in the air chisel. I tried the nut thing as explained above too.

One day all of the sudden it came back to me what George taught me when I was like 12. and tried it. Works like a charm better than any other method. In fact its amazingly simple, and to my knowledge does no harm. Any of you guru's think this is a bad method?

What is being ommited from the descrition is that you need TWO hammers to free up the tie rod. This is kinda like squeezing a watermelon seed to shoot it acros the room: You need an anvil and a hammer.

The way it works is to hold one hammer tight to the tie rod body. Then take the second hammer and give it a good whack so it is pinned between the hammers. Use real BFHs cause you need some mass on both sides to make this happen and there is not a lot of room to swing.

Me, I just buy a ball joint separator and don't worry anymore $20 at Princes Auto. (Canadian Harbourfreight).

Pete

willy19592 wrote: ...to give a good whack on the housing that the tie rod goes into... Any of you guru's think this is a bad method?

No, I think this is the best method especially for a tie rod end you'll be reusing. Strike the knuckle as close to the stud as you can and you're golden. Don't be afraid to turn the knuckle to either side to allow access. If you've got the room, or a helper, prying upward on the tie rod end as close to the stud as possible will work wonders on very stubborn rod ends.

2 hammers? hmm I will try that next time! fwiw I usually am able to put my foot on the tie rod, as the sub with engine on it are sitting in front of me lol

can anyone tell me how to "watch" this topic?

NOHOME wrote: What is being ommited from the descrition is that you need TWO hammers to free up the tie rod. This is kinda like squeezing a watermelon seed to shoot it acros the room: You need an anvil and a hammer. The way it works is to hold one hammer tight to the tie rod body. Then take the second hammer and give it a good whack so it is pinned between the hammers. Use real BFHs cause you need some mass on both sides to make this happen and there is not a lot of room to swing. Me, I just buy a ball joint separator and don't worry anymore $20 at Princes Auto. (Canadian Harbourfreight). Pete

You don't need two hammers. You're hitting the knuckle/spindle, not the tie rod end itself. I've been doing it that way for years.

You don't need to hammers hitting the stud either. You hit the stud, and it pops up out of the hole.

Two hammers either side of the knuckle works great because it knocks the hole oval for a split seconds and lets the rod end drop out.

Best way with the least damage I've ever found uses one of these:

If it doesn't work with just the screw, bonk the knuckle with a hammer while the tool is torqued down and it will pop loose every time.

Shawn

I've used the two hammer method many times, it's never failed me or caused damage. I always err on the side of caution by threading a plain nut onto the stud in case my aim goes bad.

Some fire is always recomended for a job like this as well. My last time I skipped all the small hammers and went right with the 5 lb sledge. If fire and violence are not ideal, Advanced Auto rents out a tool that is like a large C-clamp that allows you to press it apart. No damage at all.

multiple hammers, pullers, fire? How difficult are Miata tie rods to remove?

Dunno, but I avoid the cherry red wrench around rubber boots filled with grease.

Miata? Probably not too difficult.

I spend most of my time under cars that are 30-40 years old though.

Shawn