To Miata, or not to Miata

that is, of course, the question. I'm looking at a 1991 primarily as an autocross car, but also potentially a HPDE ride and maybe an occasional summer cruiser. The remainder of its life will probably consist of a half dozen autocrosses and a track day or two per year and a possible 1000 miles of so of yearly cruising. I've checked and, as far as I can tell, it appears to have the "long nosed crank" 1.6l motor. It appears to be leaking coolant and the previous owner says a local shop indicated it needs a new waterpump. Its making a racket consistent with a bad waterpump, so that seems like a reasonable explanation. Its got 130k on the clock. Suspension appears to be fairly tight and the body is straight, althought the paint is in rough shape. The car currently has a hard top and a roll bar of unknown origins. I think I can get it for $2k. What says GRM? Is the price reasonable assuming there is some risk that the issues are more extensive than a waterpump? Also, how big of a job is the waterpump?

I'd go down further. Offer $1000-$1500. That way at the worst, you can sell the hardtop and minimize your loss.

Too much, IMO if you live somewhere that has plentiful and dry Miatas.

Unless it has a factory hardtop, in which case it is, again IMO, a great deal, because even if you don't WANT the hardtop, Spec Miata racers will buy it for $800-$1000 (if it's a factory hardtop).

I recently paid $2500 for a similar car with no mechanical issues, and I overpaid a little because it was a reverse "bro" deal...

I'm in Michigan, so most I've looked at, even at similar prices, are rotted away to nothingness or have been babied, have 30000 miles on them and are still in the $5-6K range.

kazoospec wrote: I'm in Michigan, so most I've looked at, even at similar prices, are rotted away to nothingness or have been babied, have 30000 miles on them and are still in the 5-6K range.

Well.... in michigan... a rust free miata is a rust free Miata. For $2k, and you aren't finding better near your, and don't want to fly and drive, i'd get it.

What's the worst that can happen? You have to pull the drivetrain?

At 130k, it's due for a timing belt change. And the water pump is right behind the timing belt. Not a huge job, it's an afternoon's work the first time round. It wouldn't stop me from buying the car. Heck, unless there are receipts proving otherwise, I would assume that a 130k Miata needs a new timing belt and water pump anyhow.

I'm not going to comment on the price, as that varies a lot by region.

That price is about $1700 too high around here. Might want to check with your local HPDE providers about convertible requirements (some require a hardtop or rollbar or both).

Me? I'd pass. And I autocrossed a 1.6L Miata.

Seriously? You can get $300 running Miatas with a hardtop that need a waterpump? Where do you live?

Keith wrote: Seriously? You can get $300 running Miatas with a hardtop that need a waterpump? Where do you live?

I second this motion.

Third. Find me a few and I promise to double your money.

find me one and ill pay you double the price of the car for a finders fee. thats still only a 900 dollar miata.

Keith wrote: Seriously? You can get $300 running Miatas with a hardtop that need a waterpump? Where do you live?

I paid $1250 for mine with hardtop, Rota's, and no water pump needed.

Although to be honest I didn't see that his had the hardtop. I have not seen hardtop Miata's that cheap (or I would have bought them). There have been multiple $300-$500 running/slight engine work needed ones.

kazoospec wrote: The car currently has a hard top and a roll bar of unknown origins.

Your comment of "unknown origin" lead me to believe that the Miata has a "style bar" not a roll bar. Style bar is the name the manufacturers give the bars when they are not tested to withstand roll over. What this means is that if you wish to hit a track a real roll bar may be needed.
I just want to point out that if this is a style bar it does nothing for you for race purposes.

Agreed to check with you track day venue of choice. Many do not like or allow convertibles and or have strict requirements for roll bar and hardtop

Like Keith says, pricing must vary a lot by area. In the Midatlantic something that is still basically Miata-shaped and does not have a gaping hole where the engine should be has an asking price over $2000.

Just 120 miles south of Javelin in Eugene there isn't a single miata for sale under 4 grand. The car in the original post would be gone in a day for 3K.

Hell the only miata on any CL within 350 miles has been rolled and they still want a grand for it

I wish that people would stop assuming that all these Miata hard tops are in pristine, or even usable, condition. Hard tops go bad too.

There is a woman who lives near where I work. She is the original owner of a hard top equipped Miata that has sat on jack stands under a wet car cover for (I am not making this up) 14 years. Last year, I asked if she's be interested in selling it and she let me take a look. Every corner had at least minor damage. There was rust. The brakes were frozen. The windshield was cracked. The tires were bad. One wheel was broken. The hardtop was wet and moldy on the inside and the fiberglass was delaminating on the outside. It was also parked sideways, right next to a stone wall, at the top of a steep, narrow driveway on a busy street. I offered her $300 for it. I don't even think it was worth that and it would have been a nightmare to move. She declined.

Almost a year later, she put an ad on Craigslist asking $1000. She clearly had an emotional attachment to the car and still saw it as the beautiful little car that she bought new in 1993 and drove until the clutch failed. It's still parked there.

I also question the "Spec Miata guys will snap up hard tops for $800 to $1000" -- no doubt they have value, but it seems to me that people trying to unload Miata hardtops in that price range have them for a long, long time.

If it's not rusty, buy it. You can search and search for a lower priced one. Or simply buy, drive, and enjoy. Someone will ALWAYS get a better deal than you. But, you probably got a better deal than someone else. Life's too short to waste time over a "relatively" minor amount of money for a twenty-year old used car.

ZOO wrote: I also question the "Spec Miata guys will snap up hard tops for $800 to $1000" -- no doubt they have value, but it seems to me that people trying to unload Miata hardtops in that price range have them for a long, long time. If it's not rusty, buy it. You can search and search for a lower priced one. Or simply buy, drive, and enjoy. Someone will ALWAYS get a better deal than you. But, you probably got a better deal than someone else. Life's too short to waste time over a "relatively" minor amount of money for a twenty-year old used car.

I think you have just enabled me. For life.

ZOO wrote: I also question the "Spec Miata guys will snap up hard tops for $800 to $1000" -- no doubt they have value, but it seems to me that people trying to unload Miata hardtops in that price range have them for a long, long time.

I have bough two perfect black hard tops for $500 each. A Spec Miata guy might pay $1000 if it's two days before his first race, it's the last part he needs to complete the car and your top is the only one for sale within the tri-state region.

ZOO wrote: I also question the "Spec Miata guys will snap up hard tops for $800 to $1000" -- no doubt they have value, but it seems to me that people trying to unload Miata hardtops in that price range have them for a long, long time.

I sold my hardtop for my $1000 asking price in less than 24 hours. The first person to email drove right over and forked over the cash, no questions.

Javelin wrote:

Keith wrote: Seriously? You can get $300 running Miatas with a hardtop that need a waterpump? Where do you live?

I paid $1250 for mine with hardtop, Rota's, and no water pump needed. Although to be honest I didn't see that his had the hardtop. I have not seen hardtop Miata's that cheap (or I would have bought them). There have been multiple $300-$500 running/slight engine work needed ones.

I thought you got rid of yours because it was junk and you hated it...?

ditchdigger wrote: Just 120 miles south of Javelin in Eugene there isn't a single miata for sale under 4 grand. The car in the original post would be gone in a day for 3K. Hell the only miata on any CL within 350 miles has been rolled and they still want a grand for it

Well DUH, it's JULY. That season thing called summer where the great giant ball of fire comes out. You have to buy your small, sporty, convertibles in the middle of a February snowstorm like I did to get deals.

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:

Javelin wrote:

Keith wrote: Seriously? You can get $300 running Miatas with a hardtop that need a waterpump? Where do you live?

I paid $1250 for mine with hardtop, Rota's, and no water pump needed. Although to be honest I didn't see that his had the hardtop. I have not seen hardtop Miata's that cheap (or I would have bought them). There have been multiple $300-$500 running/slight engine work needed ones.

I thought you got rid of yours because it was junk and you hated it...?

My motor was trash because it was a $1250 Miata! I'd still buy a cheap one to flip for $$$

I also wouldn't rule out a 1.8 or NB. It's the 1.6 (crank issues, expensive parts like the CAS, and no LSD besides V(irtual)LSD) cars that I'll never personally keep anymore.

Javelin wrote:

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:

Javelin wrote:

Keith wrote: Seriously? You can get $300 running Miatas with a hardtop that need a waterpump? Where do you live?

I paid $1250 for mine with hardtop, Rota's, and no water pump needed. Although to be honest I didn't see that his had the hardtop. I have not seen hardtop Miata's that cheap (or I would have bought them). There have been multiple $300-$500 running/slight engine work needed ones.

I thought you got rid of yours because it was junk and you hated it...?

My motor was trash because it was a $1250 Miata! I'd still buy a cheap one to flip for $$$ I also wouldn't rule out a 1.8 or NB. It's the 1.6 (crank issues, expensive parts like the CAS, and no LSD besides V(irtual)LSD) cars that I'll never personally keep anymore.

Ah gotcha... that's all part of the reason i ruled out 1.6s on my search. But they're also typically much cheaper than the 1.8s. At least around here.

Of course... look what i ended up with, so i guess i've got no real relevant input to this thread.

Alright, I've also found a 1991 with a 1.8 swap. Price is a little more, but appears to be in generally better shape. Anyone know where that would leave me for autox classing? The 1.8 was available later in the same body style, and both the 1.6 and 1.8 are ES (SCCA Classing), so I'm hoping it would still be considered an ES car. Anyone know? (Any yes, I need to stop compulsively car shopping)