I had the harmonic balancer on a 22RE separate like that. Left me stranded. When I figured out what it was, I put the loose part back on the fixed part and drove it 30 miles home like that. Then I found a pulley off a 22R Celi that was solid and I put that on in it's place. That worked fine until the timing chain ate through the front cover water passage. I gave up on that one at that point. It is now awaiting a 1uzfe "one of these days," after the Europa is one the road, after the Locost is on the road.
Waiting on payday to get parts car,I hope. Man I need to get stuff running here.....
If you want to go EFI, then swap the tank, pull the full engine harness and ECU from the donor and put it in the other one. If wiring is not your thing, you will probably be better off just R&R'ing the motor and putting the carb pieces from the dead motor on the new one. For example, would hooking up the fuel pump relay and running the wires to the pump be over your head? Can you read schematics? Wiring has killed more engine swaps than anything else, as far as I've seen.
I haven't messed much with 4AF's, but if they are like the rest of Toyotas, then if the carb one has a cam driven fuel pump, the EFI one will have the same stuff for it, but just be blocked off.
I wouldn't bother with the timing belt unless it is obviously shot. That motor should be non-interference, so if the belt does go, it just stops you there and won't damage anything. I'd leave the water pump alone too unless it is leaking.
Hum, still going to change gaskets out. I hate leaks. I can label what I unplug and take notes. I just dont want to have to cut up the harness to much and piece it all back together to short out later. from my research to this point I have found that the surest and safest way is to just pull the entire harness from the engine,all the under dash and gauge wires and the wiring for the fuel pump and swap it out in one piece with no cutting if at all possible. I will hack holes in the body before I cut up the harness. I got the gauge cluster and everything so that much is figured out. It's not the easy route but I have lots of time and no money left. If I am patient and don't get frustrated I think i can pull it off. If it was RWD it would have a 350 SBC and a powerglide in it. I think I could have tube framed it and done it by the time I get it going...lol. Thanx for the insight though..
Is that donor a 2 door or a 4 door?
4, same as the one I want to fix. Need some parts? Cheap?
I need some 2 door parts, and they are 2 door specific, I'm afraid.
Yeah,I was hoping that when I went to get this car it was a 2 door. The GT-S was the one with the flip up head lights right? Look good on a more door just to be different. I got to find a decent wiring diagram that makes sense. May have to order a chilton manual. I wouldn't wipe my can on a Haynes. Got one that is about useless already.
After I get what I need to get myself going I am going to part out the rest of what I got. I got an auto trans cheap but really,who wants an auto? Got an decent 4af head too.
I need a legible wiring diagram for the 91 corolla with a 4afe/auto trans. Any help?
Here's a 1990:
http://opc.mr2oc.com/online_parts_catalog/1990CorollaFWD.pdf
Thanx. Now I got to figure out how to read them better. I took loose all the engine harness and labeled each connector,took notes. I am hoping the 89 harness that stays hooked to the body and plugs into the underhood fuse box will plug into the 91 box that my new engine harness does. All I got to do now is unplug what ever is left under the dash and snake it out without screwing it up beyond all hope of fixing. I am not sure what the other end of the engine harness is tied in to other than the ecu. Will I have to pull the other fuse box and that harness too? All I got to so far in the dash is pulling the gauge cluster out.
Going to pull the dash out tomorrow. Its better than the one I got. Easier to get at all the wires that way. Hope it isn't going to be that bad.
I dunno about your fuse box. I think you should be OK. The boxes under the hood mostly fuse stuff like the AC, headlights, etc. I'm trying to recall the rest of the wiring. I think there's a fuse box in one of the foot wells. Make sure they are the same. That is, make sure that the carby one has the same fuses, relays, etc. in it as the EFI one. If you are pulling the whole dash out, you should be able to swap all the stuff over pretty easily. Might be easier yet to pull the seats too. That's just a couple more bolts.
Pulled the dash. Some of the main harness wires have been burnt and taped back up, cut and spliced. I took the engine harness out,the ecu and the headlight/fan harness too. In the driver side kick panel there is a main fuse block. The headlight harness plugs in it. The small ecu plug is tied into the main gob of wires under the dash, the "circuit opening relay" mounted to the ecu is tied into it also.Other than the ecu plugs,3 connectors mate the engine harness to the main wiring. I am hoping that once I get the tape off the main underdash harness I can try to eliminate or repair some of the circuits if it is worse than it looks. I think some idiot tried to wire a stereo in and fried some stuff because there were a bunch of speaker wires,amp cables and stuff fed into it all and hanging out.
I downloaded the wiring specs. Where are the junction blocks that it keeps refering to? It says there are 3. Only thing I can think of is the 2 under hood fuse boxes and the kick panel fuse block. I am by no means good at wiring.
Also I hear alot about the ever popular 20v 4age swaps. Alot of the threads I have read says you need just the engine/ecu harness. How does this work for a 4afe? If the main harness is beyond repair under the tape is there a way to graft in the wiring from the ecu and keep as much of the carb'd cars' harness as possible? Wiring sux....
With a 20v swap, you still need to hook both harnesses together. Some people will do this for you and make it close to plug and play, but they charge pretty good for it. It's quite time consuming, so that's why they charge. There is another junction box with relays and stuff under the passenger kick panel.
Yeah, if I remember right it was just a big piece of molded plastic that held 2 conectors together. I was thinking that with the way each set of circuits seems to have its own harness, like headlights/fan,engine,ac, that I may be able to just plug in pieces of the old one to replace what is damaged on the efi one. I will have to unravel the tape and trace the circuits to see what is what first. The ecu controls the fan for the efi version right? I may try to use the old headlight harness but use the 1991 connector because of the added circuits. Trace the headlights,horn,blinkers ect... and put the right wire back into the right pin location on the 91 connectors so I can use the 91 fuse block. The headlight harness on the 91 and fan circuit ?(found 2 cut wires on the harness) has been butchered up. Sure it would be easy to just swap it all but the cut and melted wires have me worried that something will short out causing a fire or I will fry a critical component I can't afford. One way or another I will figure it all out. I got to get my son this weekend so it will be a while before i get back on it. Will let you know how it goes...thanx for the help ppl....
The fan circuit is very complicated. It is not controlled by the ECU, but turns on when the AC is on or when the switch on the motor turns it on. The relays for it are in the relay/fuse box in the engine compartment.
Thanx,I was reading about it having a temp control sensor on the block. I found one on the thermostat housing, pointing towards the grille that was broke off. The a/c fan was spliced to run from the turn of the key and the main fan was unhooked with dangling wires.I got a similar sensor on the 4af thermo housing I remember removing when I painted it but I am not sure if it is the same thing yet,I haven't had time to look. Worse case I can just get an aftermarket thermostat relay from painless wiring or some such place that turns the fan on and off at a pre selected temp.I don't think it is safe just to straight wire it to a keyed ignition source without a relay due to the load.They universal deal is the ones used when putting an elctric fan on an old muscle car. I plan to install some cheap manual gauges,like oil pressure,and coolant temp that can be bought at auto zone. I dont know if they have sending units but most will read from a GM style sending unit if I can figure out where to put them. Hopefully i can get a day off when it ain't raining to work on my junk.
Crunch time. I got to have the drivetrain out of the 91,the rest of the wiring and the entire fuel system out ,and the 89 running by sundown thursday. Bet a case of bud that I could do it. Here goes nothing.......
Motor/ trans in. Wiring ready to be swapped. I lost a case of Bud. Oh well.....
Just as an observation, Budweiser and Wiring and not compatible.
Got the entire 91 wiring system in. The whole thing. I know some of the circuits were the same but the plugs going to the fuse boxes had different pin counts and positions. It was easier for me to just swap it out and plug it back in. All I got to do now is install the axles,radiator and gas tank (from efi car). I left all the dash out in the case I have to trace a short. I need to get a new o2 sensor and wire it up. The wires in the chilton and the wires I think could be the o2 wires are not the same color.It had no exhaust when I got it home. I am just going to splice in to the wires coming from the ecu connector with new ones and run it to the o2 sensor. The fans are getting a toggle switch/relay because some idiot cut up that circuit and I am to lazy to figure it out... A good tune up and I will turn the key. Either it will run or it won't. I hope wires don't start sizzling like bacon when I put the battery in and start it up. Lot of work just to beat it apart on the dirt track. Cheap ain't always easy...
What year is this motor? How many wires is the O2 sensor? If it's late, it should be 4 wires. "They say" not to splice the wires on the sensor side of the plug. The 2 wires the same color should be the heater and can go either way. The thick wire should be shielded and that's the signal. The other wire is sensor ground.
(16 and no license then) 
That 355 at 11.5 or so to 1 would scoot. Makes me wonder if I should splurge on a new one for the yota seeing as how it will be wound up for most of it's life on the dirt.
Now I'm just painting brackets and cleaning up parts I will reuse untill I get an engine. Keroseen and Dupli color make a world of difference on a greasy pile of junk. Even polishing the valve cover. That is time consuming using progressive grits,my hand and mothers mag wheel polish and a shop towel. Any better way to do it?
