Moments later...
It couldn't possibly have anything to do with this small broken wire laying on top of the compressor, could it?
Moments later...
It couldn't possibly have anything to do with this small broken wire laying on top of the compressor, could it?
I think that the broken wire goes to a thermal switch. I removed it, disassembled/broke it a little, resoldered the original wire and replaced the broken plastic cover with liquid electrical tape.
Everything is back together and the compressor clutch is engaging. Time for a road test.
That's pretty cold for outlet temps. I usually see them in the mid 30s range. Make sure you aren't freezing up the evap coil. It could be a little low on refrigerant.
Toyman01 wrote:
Yeah.... Something is wrong with your outlet temps. Usually they are in the high 30s/low 40s, because the coil itself has to stay above 32F or all the condensation will freeze it up solid.
That was immediately after adding the refridgerant and the car wasn't moving yet. Could that have something to do with it?
Possibly. If they stay that low, the evaporator coil will freeze up. That's usually a good indication you need to add a little more refrigerant.
The system calls for 20 ounces. I added all of a 14 ounce can and then most of a 12. Unfortunately I didn't have the right adapter to fill it through the manifold so I had to use one of the hoses with the gauge that goes directly on the can and filled it through the low port. I couldn't get the pressure all the way up to where it should be for the ambient temperature.
novaderrik wrote: personally, i'm not going out of my way to add it to anything-
Berk that. I want A/C in ALL of my cars, '79 Spitfire, '64 Mini, '72 GT6... all of them. Especially now when it's 90F with 95% RH outside - so my classic cars stay home. I buy cars to drive, not race and without A/C I lose 3 months or so of driving time every year...
I don't understand why some feel it's some sort of proof-of-manhood to get out of a car soaked in sweat...
I haven't had A/C for over a year in my car. I don't get out soaked in sweat... but then again I never have to drive more than like 15 or 20 minutes, so its much less of an issue.
I'll get around to fixing it one of these days. Hopefully before my wife murders me.
In reply to ProDarwin:
Yeah... when your commute is over an hour each way, you become sensitive to these things... If the humidity isn't too bad, I can deal with it since I can usually park in the garage at work so the car stays cool.
Bearing in mind I'm talking about little British cars which are notorious for letting engine heat into the cabin (although fujiko did a better than average job sealing the Spitfire).
In pre 80s stuff (with vent windows, kick panel vents, etc.) I generally find the car is ventilated well enough that if it's moving and not a dark color, and the temp is under 80 or so, I'm cool enough. And I sweat like crazy, like I'll drink about 2 quarts of water per hour working hard outside in the summer, wearing jeans and a (quickly soaked) synthetic wicking shirt, and that water doesn't seem to make it to my bladder.
I'd probably look at covering the firewall and floor pan above the exhaust in foil tape before spending hundreds in fitting air conditioning.
In reply to Woody:
I now have the exact same issue on my '01 NB after doing a timing belt job. When I moved the power steering pump out of the way I damaged the wire to the ac compressor "thermal switch". I would like to do the same repair that you explain here but have some concern. When I remove the switch will it "open" the AC circuit and vent out the refrigerant? Just want to know what I'm getting into before proceeding. I don't have all the tools required (manifold gauge set and suction pump) to properly evacuate and refill the system.
In reply to Stormdad:
No worries, it's just a thermal switch that contacts a solid metal indent on he housing. Nothing can leak out.
And...thanks for teaching me how I killed my a/c! That's a completely plausible explanation.
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