What diesel truck?

We are planning on getting a 5th wheel camper this summer. What truck should we be looking for? I've always heard Ford Truck + Dodge Cummins engine + GM Allison transmission = best truck, but don't have the time for that foolishness.

I'd be looking at ~98-2003 MY trucks, based on price/condition, I believe.

I know the 6.0 Powerstrokes have very poor reputation and that the early Duramaxs have expensive injector issues. Is the right answer a Dodge? I've generally shied away from both Dodge and GM vehicles in the past, but I've never had a truck.

I think that year range would put you right towards the end of the 7.3 Powerstrokes. A very reliable engine, but definitely not nearly as powerful as the stuff they are making now.

In reply to Datsun1500:

The 2003 6.0's have a P in their VIN IIRC.

I've had the powerstroke 7.3 w/ auto, Cummins 5.9 w/auto, and now a 2002 Chevy with the duramax/allison combo and I like the current setup the best......awesome combo. The injector problem is real so either make sure the truck has had them done recently or budget to have them done. I had mine done for 3k labor and all along with all new fuel lines, but when I bought the truck the seller and I both knew it needed them, so I got it priced with that in mind. I run standyne additive in pretty much every tank, along with CAT fuel filters, both of those should help the injectors last. I imagine by the time the truck is ready for another set I'll be ready for a newer truck, but I'm in love with this combo so I imagine it'll be a newer GM.

In reply to Datsun1500: what does it require to bulletproof them. I have heard this but not sure what it takes. EGR etc.

Thanks, Chris

SEADave wrote: I think that year range would put you right towards the end of the 7.3 Powerstrokes. A very reliable engine, but definitely not nearly as powerful as the stuff they are making now.

7.3L is the right answer, and this is coming from a die hard Cummins guy. The 5.9L Cummins is a gem, it's everything around the motor that is a steaming hunk of crap

cdowd wrote: In reply to Datsun1500: what does it require to bulletproof them. I have heard this but not sure what it takes. EGR etc. Thanks, Chris

EGR delete plus head gaskets and ARP head studs seem to be the usual things.

I have owned a 1997 F-250 with the 7.3l 5 speed 4x4, 2002 Dodge 2500 with the 24V Cummins 5 speed 4x4 and currently own a 2005 F250 with the 6.0L Auto 4x4 and a 1993 F350 with the 7.3L 5 speed 4x4. My dodge got the best fuel mileage at about 20 mpg. I really like my 6.0. Plenty of power and the auto trans shifts really smooth.It has 205k miles on it right now. I bought it with 180k on it. I have replaced drivers side injectors, oil cooler, ICP sensor and performed the EGR delete. Most likely I wont need head studs unless I throw a crazy tune on it and try to pull a huge big load. Lately the 6.0 has been averaging 17 mpg with about 10 mins idle time in the mornings.
6.0L trucks are a bargain if you don't buy one from some kid with a flat billed hat. You should also budget in for a few things if not already done when considering price such as : Coolant flush (use Zerex ELC) ,coolant filter, some means of monitoring engine vitals (I use Tourque App for Android ), EGR delete, and just set aside about $4000 for the possible FICM, oil cooler and injector replacement. I did all the work myself. You can check out some hack documentation here : 6.0 Goodness
I think with the 7.3 you maybe disappointed in the power offerings compared to others. Not that you cant do alot to improve it.1994.5-1998 7.3l has 210HP 400lb/ft of torque. The 6.0l 325HP and 550lb/ft of torque. I loved my Dodge. But they have there problems such as: dash replacement they ALL will be cracked and falling apart if not already replaced, the a/c pees in the passenger side floor board, ball joints wear out quicker then some, all of the dodges I have driven have quirky steering and I have heard tell of cam sensor problems. They will not disappoint when it comes to low end torque

Oh one last thing on the 6.0L replace the degas bottle cap! I don't know much about the Duramax. My brother has owned a few. In this area they tend to be over priced so maybe they are pretty good rigs aside frome the aforementioned injector issues?

When I was answering this question 5 years ago it was Chevy all the way. I see nothing to change that.

The ride is much better than either of the other choices, the slick 6 speed auto trans is awesome and mine has been flawlessly reliable for the 150k I've pulled with it (except an electrical issue caused by some asshattery in the way the 5th wheel wiring was run by the installer).

Up to 03 you would be looking at the LB7 Duramax with the 5 speed Allison. They do have the injector issues, but like has been said budget for them, or get the truck cheap because it needs them, and you should be good to go for a while. Seems the earliest people are having to change them is 80k miles, some go much longer.

I was in the same boat a few years ago (7.3 vs cheap 6.0 vs Dodge). Duramaxes did seem to come at a premium in my area, but looking further (i.e. the South and Texas) I found more options. Most of them were LB7, but I ended up finding a high mileage 06 Duramax 3500 DRW (LBZ/6 speed Allison) for cheap in Texas. Flew down and drove it home to PA. Has been running flawlessly ever since and I can say without a doubt that I would not buy anything but a Duramax in the future. Much more comfortable to drive then the Fords and Dodges I test drove. It is much more truck than I needed (would have been fine with a 2500 SRW), but the price was too good to pass up and I'm glad I have it now, as any future upgrades or new trailer purchases shouldn't be an issue.

My Dad's 03 LB7 has had injectors done once under warranty, and again at about 350,000 km. It's got well about 420,000km on it now. In total I think he's done injectors, transfer case (pump rub issue), water pump. That's really about it. It's been a fantastic truck. Pulls very well and still rides nice. The LB7's have injector issues, but they also tend to get the best fuel economy. He routinely gets 25-27 MPG unloaded (imp gallons of course, not the useless little US gallons haha).

I don't know what size trailer you are hauling, but my 2500HD with a 6.0 gas has no problem towing a trailer, even on the WV turnpike.

In reply to ridinwitcj73:

99-03 7.3's made somewhere around 250-275hp and 505-525tq The super duty trucks are worth the extra coin over their earlier counterparts as well.

ridinwitcj73 wrote: don't buy one from some kid with a flat billed hat.

Hilarious

I have a '99 F250 7.3L.

INCREDIBLY reliable and low maintenance.

The 7.3 responds very well to tuner chips. I get 22 mpg with a simple plug-and-play.

But mine is getting up in mileage, and I am in it a lot. It's a noisy beast, and I spend a lot of time on the cell phone while driving.

Within a year I will be buying another, so I am watching this thread.

I really want 20+ mpg (and would consider gas). Prefer 3/4 ton, but OK with modern 1/2 tons.

I am tempted to buy a cherry condition 7.3L.

I would never consider a Dodge at any price, though I'd take a Cummins (just not in the truck).

I had an '01 Silverado 2500 (gas burner). Loved the ride and fit, but was never willing to pay the Duramax premium.

There are bargains everywhere on 6.0L, but I am still feeling nervous about the issues.

The 6.4L and the 6.7L will probably be out of my price range.

SVreX wrote: The 6.4L and the 6.7L will probably be out of my price range.

The 6.4L is much, much worse than the 6.0L. My co-worker was a diesel tech at Ford in another life. He refuses to work on the 6.4L.

My Dodge has been really good. I did the delete last summer, but it never really gave trouble other than constant regens. Its a very solid reliable truck that I love to drive. Its a 2008 with a 6.7. I have never touched the front end and I pull a lot of weight.

Datsun1500 wrote:

yamaha wrote:

cdowd wrote: In reply to Datsun1500: what does it require to bulletproof them. I have heard this but not sure what it takes. EGR etc. Thanks, Chris

EGR delete plus head gaskets and ARP head studs seem to be the usual things.

If you get the studs done in time, the head gaskets are not needed. Since you will be shopping @10-12 year old 6.0's I would want proof of the following. Egr delete, Head Studs and injectors. Without hard proof, pass. Basically you want a truck with 130K miles or more, by that time it's probably been done. The 2004 with 85K miles might sound like a sweet truck, but you will be the guy doing it @$4500!

Isnt there also the oil cooler mixing coolant and oil problem on the 6.0s and swapping to an air to oil cooler a common thing to do with the egr delete?

In reply to Leafy: From what I know it doesn't mix the coolant with the oil. I guess it could if it developed a leak but I don't think that is all that common. What happens is the oil cooler partially clogs up and thus not cooling the oil nor the coolant flowing through it. Once the coolant reaches the EGR cooler it is hotter then it should be and the EGR cooler over heats. You shut the truck off it cools and the cycle continutes next time you drive it. The EGR cooler expands and contracts through this process and an internal leak develops where coolant leaks into the EGR cooler exhaust chamber. When the truck sits over night coolant collects in the egr cooler and leaks into the intake. Eventually you can flood the cylinders with coolant and then you stretch head bolts and blow head gaskets. Another problem that can come from the oil cooler not working properly is the oil is not cooled and your running overly hot oil through your injectors and you shorten their life. Delete the EGR and under most circumstances the updated high flow oil cooler works great. Why does the oil cooler clog up? Design is abit flawed and the passages are tiny. The fact that casting sand from the block is thrown into the mix doesn't help....factor in the ford gold coolant that can gel up if not changed when it should be and you have a half plugged up oil cooler. This is why I mentioned to figure on adding a coolant filter and the ZEREX ELC coolant. Also no one ever changes there coolant cap and it doesn't maintain proper pressure in the coolant system and your 6.0 over heats. So that helps to replace it to. :)

In reply to Leafy:

Early 6.0's could suffer from loss of oil pressure, most of those are either fixed or blown up at this point.

The 6.7L Powerstroke is perhaps the best diesel engine in a light duty pickup at this time.

How much of a 'project' do you want your lifeline to be? How much does it cost to tow a 1 ton truck AND a 30 ft trailer out of the middle of nowhere?

The 7.3 Powerstroke is a known quantity. Yes, it's noisy and not very powerful. But it is reliable, and there's a STRONG chance the body/interior of the truck it comes in will be holding up vastly better than the GMs and Dodges in that price range. If you're planning to spend 20 hrs at a time in it you may want an interior that doesnt look like it's falling to E36 M3. The auto trans is WAY better than the dodge 518 in stock form.

I won't say it's better than a duramax truck, but if you're not looking to spend 10k+ i can pretty much guarantee you'll get a way better condition ford for the money.

Vigo wrote: How much of a 'project' do you want your lifeline to be? How much does it cost to tow a 1 ton truck AND a 30 ft trailer out of the middle of nowhere?

Unfortunately I know one answer to this. Coming back from the Solo Nats last year, I broke down near Metropolis, Il (rear u-joint and yoke). To tow my Dually and 28ft enclose trailer 17 miles it was $250. That was fairly reasonable, it could have been much worse. Add in getting it fixed plus the 5 days in a hotel (had to wait over weekend for parts), it was close to a grand.

Whatever you buy, just plan to go through all of it. Even then its no guarantee something won't go wrong. I put new u-joints in before the trip and still it broke.