Meh, Miata wasn't the answer for me, either, and there was nothing major wrong with mine. Just needed something with more torque, more seats, and more torque. And yes, I know there are many ways to torque-ify a Miata, but I don't want a project right now, and that still leaves me with the seat problem.
On to an E36.....
Javelin wrote: * Clutch kit (x2!!!) including slave, line, and fork on #2
Why twice? Mess something up the first time?
Javelin wrote: * Water Pump + Coolant * Radiator + Coolant, again
The original plastic radiator that is a known problem that everyone knows to replace ASAP? Why didn't you do it all at once?
Javelin wrote: * Timing Belt +accessories * CAS * Front hub/balancer/pulley assembly plus crank bolt and key
After the Timing belt job the crank pulley issue started right? Did you torque the bolt and use loctite as recommended? You bought a new bolt this time right?
Javelin wrote: * Oil consumption
What weight/type of oil are you using? Mazda filters?
Sounds like catching up on deferred maintenance AND maybe not paying attention to some jobs AND bad luck with that particular car. Not trying to get down on you but lets look at the P71. The plugs blowing out is a KNOWN ISSUE that you choose to ignore rather than doing whats required to prevent it. Then when it happened you got fed up and sold the car. Sounds like the same thing here-you're running into preventable KNOWN ISSUES and complaining when they happen at inconvenient times. If I didn't have a Miata already I'd buy your car in a heartbeat-almost all the known issues have been dealt with already.
I could swear you said you hated a Miata. What other symptoms do you have? Have you been hurting animals or helping cancer fight children?
You could need to be institutionalized for the rest of your life.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: I could swear you said you hated a Miata. What other symptoms do you have? Have you been hurting animals or helping cancer fight children? You could need to be institutionalized for the rest of your life.
Stone the infidel! 
Clutch kit was twice because I didn't replace the clutch fork retainer spring. Which then broke, the fork then popped out of place and got jammed behind the throwout bearing. So it all needed to come back out. Re-surfaced the flywheel (again), new clutch kit (again), clutch fork + retainer clip, slave cylinder (because the rod popped out when the fork fell off), and clutch line plus Redline in the trans (again) and fresh DOT4 in the clutch circuit. Mind you this did not happen right after the first clutch job. Nope, it was 2,500 miles later at an Autocross in Packwood, Washington. If it broke right away I would chalk it up to something I did, but 2500 miles and 2 autocrosses before it broke means it was just bad luck.
On the Radiator, I did not know that they sucked. Mine produced a 5-6" long crack lengthwise across the top. It's still a ticking timebomb as all I did was put the Permatex patch on it. So yeah, I still need all new coolant again and to drop in the Flyin Miata non-plastic replacement. Might as well put in new hoses, too. The only reason I did the water pump is because I already had to the timing belt. It was one of those, "while I'm in there" to prevent crap like above.
The timing belt job actually went smooth as silk. I ordered the whole shebang, got all the little seals from FM, and everything went together well. I used Loctite and there was no issues with the hub, balancer, or crank at that time. I installed a new Mazda key. It was almost 5,000 miles later that the balancer broke, and I had actually ordered the new one some 3 days earlier. I noticed the outside wobbled and thought the rubber was coming apart. Now it has a new key, new crank bolt, new hub, new balancer, and loctite again. And by new I mean the OEM Mazda stuff new in the bag ($$$$$$). Not a single used part down there at all. Also, new v-belts, but that was during the timing belt.
5W30 oil, dino stuff (NAPA house brand). It had ZERO oil consumption on Mobil 1 synthetic. I switched to Royal Purple and it ate 3 quarts in like 100 miles, it was ridiculous. I swapped that back out for Mobil 1 and it still eats 1 quart every 500 miles. Now I'm running NAPA dino oil to keep it under control. It blue smokes now. WIX filters.
And hold on before you blame ME for the P71's plugs. I did know it was an issue, and I did do what little you can (new plugs at 125K, re-torqued after a heat cycle). After #2 popped I pulled them all out, re-installed, and re-torqued them all again. It then drove from Washington State to Florida with no issues. Crap happens and I don't like your tone. 
I knew this Miata was questionable when I bought it, but what GRM'er wouldn't buy a 5-Speed Miata with new RoTa's and a hardtop for $1250? It just seems like it's trying to catch up on all the maintenance at the same damn time. If I wasn't relying on it to go to work every day, I'd probably be more sympathetic to it.
If you want to deliver the Miata, i'll trade you my MX6 for it.
I'd offer you my favorite Toyota, but i only have one, and i have to keep at least one around to retain my "Toyota-humper" status.
To answer your last question.... I'm not sure if i would have bought that one for $1250. It would have depended on my cash reserves at that moment.
When the Miata is not the answer, a rotary is. Or an LSx.
I know that there is a preference for lighter weight oils over here in the US but I ran my Miatas on 10W40 in the UK. The only one that actually used oil was the one that had a duff turbo.
I always ran 10w40 in my Miata to quiet down the lifters. It still burned some but less than a quart every oil change.
amg_rx7 wrote: When the Miata is not the answer, a rotary is. Or an LSx.
Or an LSx where a rotary should be...
The real answer is Italian.
For that price you're still way ahead. Think of it this way-if you buy another one for more you may have the same problems and you know a bit of the history on this one now.
Radiator-spend some time sifting through the gobs of info on miatanet and you'll find every known issue for your car down to who forgot to tighten the radio ground screw every Thursday after lunch at the plant 
And not that FM doesn't have some fine parts but radiatorbarn.com has all metal 2 rows for $150 shipped. I've put them in half of the Miatas I've owned and you can't beat the quality for the price.
As for the rest I bet from now on you'll replace ALL the parts on a given job just to keep from having to do it twice.
Tom_Spangler wrote: Meh, Miata wasn't the answer for me, either, and there was nothing major wrong with mine. Just needed something with more torque, more seats, and more torque. On to an E36.....
To each their own I guess. Three seasons a year, my Miata gets driven all the time while my E36 M3 collects leaves in the driveway.
Junkyard_Dog wrote: And not that FM doesn't have some fine parts but radiatorbarn.com has all metal 2 rows for $150 shipped. I've put them in half of the Miatas I've owned and you can't beat the quality for the price.
Oh snap, I did not know about that place. My radiator is also currently "fixed" with the permatex stuff. Thanks for the heads up.
....and then sold it to Javelin?
nderwater wrote:Tom_Spangler wrote: Meh, Miata wasn't the answer for me, either, and there was nothing major wrong with mine. Just needed something with more torque, more seats, and more torque. On to an E36.....To each their own I guess. Three seasons a year, my Miata gets driven all the time while my E36 M3 collects leaves in the driveway.
You E36 M3 in your driveway?
Javelin wrote: Considering I pretty much *caused* the P71 love, I don't think it qualifies.
To which we'll never forgive you.
Signed,
Osterkraut
Co-President of the P71's Aren't Really That Great Club
Sounds like you need an E30 to complete the holy trinity.
I had an E30 and have gotten tired of it (should have gotten a better one to start with) and am replacing it with a Miata.
Sounds like your problem isnt Miata's, its that you need a better example of a Miata.
No love, no love...you guys are brutal...
I think you should sell it and buy a Cobalt since so far it seems you have a higher opinion of them. 
Javelin wrote: I knew this Miata was questionable when I bought it, but what GRM'er *wouldn't* buy a 5-Speed Miata with new RoTa's and a hardtop for $1250? It just seems like it's trying to catch up on all the maintenance at the same damn time. If I wasn't relying on it to go to work every day, I'd probably be more sympathetic to it.
I wouldn't have bought it. Before I bought my first FC RX-7, I was also looking at Miatas and any Miata that cost less than $2500 in my neck of the woods was a rust bucket, basket case, or in pieces.
Speaking of my first FC RX-7, if you want to get back into rotary motoring, it's for sale. IIRC, you said owned one that was identical except yours was a year older.
Mikey52_1 wrote: No love, no love...you guys are brutal...
It's like he went up to a new mama and said "Lord, that's one ugly baby!" I mean what do you expect, given the audience?
lizard wrote:Junkyard_Dog wrote: And not that FM doesn't have some fine parts but radiatorbarn.com has all metal 2 rows for $150 shipped. I've put them in half of the Miatas I've owned and you can't beat the quality for the price.Is that for the NA or NB? I just checked for mine and the only all metal was a 1 row for $278.
NA automatic/heavy duty. Fits both 1.6 and 1.8.L. Never had an NB so not sure what they have.
I did not know about that radiator link, thanks!
I took the "long way" home today. Great road, nice trees/leaves. Handling was excellent, but man this motor sucks (it's uphill 90% of the way). Sounds like a wheezing tractor and no torque.
Wonder if I can talk the wife into letting me 5.0 it? She does like Mustang's...
Javelin wrote: I did not know about that radiator link, thanks! I took the "long way" home today. Great road, nice trees/leaves. Handling was excellent, but man this motor sucks (it's uphill 90% of the way). Sounds like a wheezing tractor and no torque. Wonder if I can talk the wife into letting me 5.0 it? She does like Mustang's...
LS1. Keith can confirm but you only gain like 50lbs. over the rear end. You'll lose the handling with a 5.0 swap.
You'll need to log in to post.
