What to paint / protect steel parts with?

I got my trailing arms sand blasted clean and now I'd like to paint / protect them black before I put them in. What shoukd I use? I live in north Carolina so not much rust happening here

Rustoleum satin black.

Pretty sturdy and it isn't glossy so it doesn't show off the imperfections, but it isn't flat so it doesn't show all of the dirt.

Cheap and easy to get so touch ups aren't a huge issue.

Make sure to prep the surface well to avoid rust from forming before you get the paint applied.

If there's more of a budget, then you could always have them powdercoated. The drawback with PC is that you can't touch it up if it is damaged.

Just my $0.02

Ok great! What's a good way to prep the metal?

I was going to get the powdercoated but they have good bushings in them, so the baking process of powder coat probably ruin the poly bushings?

Yup, if you want them powdercoated, you'll have to pull the bushings.

A good metal etching/prep solution is ideal along with an oven or a sunny day to help warm the parts and bake the paint slightly (don't need it too warm, just enough to help it dry and set properly). Depending on the size of the parts, a cheap toaster oven works.

Rustoleum rusty metal primer is my go to. coats well, self leveling, and very sandable. Main drawback is ugly burgundy shade.

In reply to NordicSaab:

I like rust bullet, followed by rusty metal primer (4x thin coats) sand and start top coat of choice.

If you do the rustoleum, you'll get better rust protection from the brush-on than from the spray, but it goes on thick too, which can be an issue on certain parts.

Ok gotcha. Hmm adding up used trailing rods, new bushings, sand blast cost, shipping, prep paint, paint costs.. I'm like $100 away from new OE Volvo trailing rods haha, think I might just buy them new and save myself an afternoon of spray painting.

Since the parts are sandblasted clean I'd just use regular Rustoleum primer. Wipe them clean first with a solvent; some sort of metal prep product would be best but lacquer thinner would work too.

I use mineral spirits to clean, then if it's rusty (sometimes if it's not), Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, then Rustoleum Appliance Enamel. Available in the quart cans or spray bombs.

ultraclyde wrote: If you do the rustoleum, you'll get better rust protection from the brush-on than from the spray, but it goes on thick too, which can be an issue on certain parts.

It thins out fine with 100% petroleum mineral spirits.

I use the VHT epoxy black on suspension components. Holds up really well.

If they are sand blasted 99% of prep is done. Wipe clean with a solvent/acetone/thinner, then prime. I prefer an epoxy for anything under the car. Holds up better to the inevitable sand blasting the undercarriage gets.

Rustolium grill paint is pretty tough in my experience.

BrokenYugo wrote:

ultraclyde wrote: If you do the rustoleum, you'll get better rust protection from the brush-on than from the spray, but it goes on thick too, which can be an issue on certain parts.

It thins out fine with 100% petroleum mineral spirits.

Good to know. Have you seen any more rusting over the long term vs using it straight? I always felt that the thicker coating was part of the strength of it, but I've never done a comparison.

I just finished repainting the frame of my open trailer with this stuff:

I can't tell you how well it'll hold up yet, but it is pretty thick. And when you get it on your skin, it does NOT want to come off. Almost as bad as POR-15 or bedliner.

ultraclyde wrote:

BrokenYugo wrote:

ultraclyde wrote: If you do the rustoleum, you'll get better rust protection from the brush-on than from the spray, but it goes on thick too, which can be an issue on certain parts.

It thins out fine with 100% petroleum mineral spirits.

Good to know. Have you seen any more rusting over the long term vs using it straight? I always felt that the thicker coating was part of the strength of it, but I've never done a comparison.

Limited sample size (I only recently got away from spray bombs), but no, I actually way over thinned some a while ago paining the edge of my car hood, one (thin) coat like a year ago and I never got around to topcoating it, there is shockingly little rust peeking back through for having seen a Michigan winter like that.

I figure thinning it a little (like 10% or so) helps it seep into seams and pinholes and whatnot. I painted a big fuel oil drum a while ago (1 coat thinned rusty metal primer, 1 coat straight Lowes Rustoleum knockoff paint) and the only spots the paint didn't hold up were a few spots where there still big chunks of tar on it (underground tank installed above) and some staining around the data plate frame where I didn't drown it in paint, the nasty stick welded seams are still perfect.

I like to start with "etching primer" in a can. There are a few brands and they all seem to work well. For suspension parts I have found that Rustoleum Hammer paint holds up well, it dries fast, has a glossy finish, and it can be touched up without showing that you did. You can get in a spray or brush.

Something that deposits fairly thick and isn't brittle will resist rock chips best. And it's the rust that starts with tiny pits that will lead to all the paint being atop one big rust bubble eventually.

I did a trailer w/ the Rustoleum rusty metal primer and the satin black high performance enamel. All of it was available at Home Despot, and I sprayed it with my primer gun which has a pretty big tip, like 1.8mm. It's held up well for 5 years.

On a similar note: I shot some items with a cold galvanizing compound and want to go over the top with a black. I know that prep is critical when painting real galvanized, but how about the liquid stuff? (basically zinc-rich paint)

I gave up on rustoleum's line of spray paint a while ago. Sure, they're super cheap and has a nice finish. But the cans are pretty much a one time use thing because the nozzles clog up so bad. No amount of cleaning or soaking in solvents help either. Their other paints like primers and such seem to work ok, but using the black just pisses me off.

I've mainly been using the VHT epoxy black now but there might be better thing out there.

I did a 35' gooseneck trailer with a gallon of rustoleum black sprayed on with the cheapest Wagner power painter. Because it didn't have the volatiles that the spray cans have there was no streaking and the finish was good enough that it got a lot of comments. I wouldn't hesitate to paint anything under a car the same way.

In reply to freetors:

when you're done shooting something with a rattle can, turn it upside down and spray [onto/into something] until it's clear, about 2-4 seconds. cleans out the nozzle and should be good for the next use.

[Hootus joke inserted here.]

The Rustoleum Appliance paint is Epoxy, not Enamel. I used some last night on the ARB for the RAV4. And Summit sells the stuff too. 'Cause race car.

Yeah, for most rattle cans, invert and spray until clear (some seem to have 2 pickups, so inverting doesn't matter). Then I wipe the nozzle with a rag. Also, make sure you shake it up really well before use, as that will prevent clogs.

I did my car hauler trailer in Rustoleum Toyota Red, I mean Regal Red, about 8 years ago. Minimal prep work. I need to touch it up now, but it held up pretty well for 2 quarts of cheap paint shot on with a HV HVLP gun, no thinner and total prep work was wiping it with a rag full of paint thinner.