“What would YOU pay?” (Optioned out ‘17 RS)

In reply to jstein77 :

I doubt they'd bite, but it's worth a shot. I'm interested to see how aggressive they get when the 2017 becomes a 2 year old car...but at that point, I'd also be buying a "new" car that's 2 years old. I dunno.

In reply to poopshovel again :

FWIW.... the warranty doesn’t start until you buy it. So you’d get your full 3/36 bumper to bumper. 

If you can get this for $32k I would think i'm crazy for picking the Audi S3.

The reason I picked that car is because I got it for $40k out the door (it was used with less than 2000 miles). The Ford people wouldn't even talk to me when I suggested that's what I wanted on a similar RS. 

Also weird: Searching autotrader, there’s a TON of used ones with less than 10k miles...and a fair amount with just a tick over a thousand. I wonder what the story on that is? Couldn’t handle the “firm” ride? Freaking out (understandably) about the head/head gasket thing? 

In reply to poopshovel again :

Probably a combination of those, plus a decent amount of fickleness.  I’m sure a decent number of them were bought by people who tend not to keep their cars very long.

So that used one I posted is the second cheapest in the country on autotrader, but the “unknown” mods...and the fact that they’ve probably voided the warranty has me a little apprehensive. $30k is a pretty big dice-roll.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?atCarId=1cea0d80

EDIT: Uuuuuuuuh. Is there a chance the “M” on that reservoir is for “Methanol?”

poopshovel again said:

 but the “unknown” mods...and the fact that they’ve probably voided the warranty has me a little apprehensive. $30k is a pretty big dice-roll.

 

How do you know that? I didn't see anything about mods in the description - or did I miss something?

Suprf1y said:

poopshovel again said:

 but the “unknown” mods...and the fact that they’ve probably voided the warranty has me a little apprehensive. $30k is a pretty big dice-roll.

 

How do you know that? I didn't see anything about mods in the description - or did I miss something?

Check the underhood pics...and my ninja-edit

poopshovel again said:

So that used one I posted is the second cheapest in the country on autotrader, but the “unknown” mods...and the fact that they’ve probably voided the warranty has me a little apprehensive. $30k is a pretty big dice-roll.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?atCarId=1cea0d80

EDIT: Uuuuuuuuh. Is there a chance the “M” on that reservoir is for “Methanol?”

I don't know, but if the headgasket hasn't been replaced, I'm sure all that junk on there voids it, I'd pass on that potential CF.

poopshovel again said:

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?atCarId=1cea0d80

EDIT: Uuuuuuuuh. Is there a chance the “M” on that reservoir is for “Methanol?”

That reservoir is for coolant, so if they're putting methanol in there, you've probably got bigger problems. 

However, it plausible that there is meth injection since That $1000 intake manifold Has bungs for "direct port methanol injection". 

That's probably a pretty fun time, but the original power train warranty might be long gone. Doesn't mean an aftermarket warranty couldn't be applied though...

Joe Gearin said:

...  If you really want to piss them off,  turn their words back upon them......  " Mr Dealer guy,  what's it going to take for you to sell this car today?"    Play their game.....beat them at it.

I like it when, during negotiations, they argue that "come on, it's just $300" difference between their asking price and my offer. I like to reply with "exactly, since it's 'only' $300, lower your price."

That's a hot-button for me, people deciding what my money is worth...

In reply to STM317 :

That was my thinking as well (on the pumaspeed/breedt manifold.) 

Shooting for $35k on the “new” ‘17 today. Wish me luck!!!

poopshovel again said:

So that used one I posted is the second cheapest in the country on autotrader, but the “unknown” mods...and the fact that they’ve probably voided the warranty has me a little apprehensive. $30k is a pretty big dice-roll.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?atCarId=1cea0d80

EDIT: Uuuuuuuuh. Is there a chance the “M” on that reservoir is for “Methanol?”

Also, why is it wearing Blizzaks?

Opposite ends of the universe again, AND they tried to throw $1700 worth of “rust & dust” BS onto the price. Oh well. 

In reply to poopshovel again :

That sucks.... luckily you don't need it. My buddies who sold me my ST have  been telling me to buy the RS on their lot for over 12 months now... Neat car... but after what I paid for my ST... the RS is fun, but not 50-70% more in price fun. 

All the ones stuck on lots now are the ones with the RS2 package and the 19" wheel upgrade.... i still do not understand why so many dealers ordered the 19" wheels.... 
 

In reply to spacecadet :

They all came with 19" wheels.  You could choose between two different styles and add on an optional set of 18" wheels with snow tires.

FoST 18" wheels fit with small spacers to clear the calipers and supposedly makes the car ride better (plus you can find more 18" wheels in greater widths and tire sizes).

While I don’t expect them to GIVE the car away, it just seems crazy that they weren’t willing to budge AT_ALL. I’ve never gotten scammed for the rust & dust bullE36 M3, and I’m not about to start now. Also, their doc fees are SEVEN HUNDRED FREAKING DOLLARS, which is the highest I’ve ever seen. They weren’t budging an inch. Which seems crazy to me, as the car has been sitting there for OVER a year now. After paying a couple-few grand in interest over that time, I’d think they’d be willing to give a *little* just to stop the bleeding.

Oh well. There are 314 “new” 2017s on Autotrader right now. Might try to find one on the next road trip.

poopshovel again said:

They weren’t budging an inch. Which seems crazy to me, as the car has been sitting there for OVER a year now. After paying a couple-few grand in interest over that time, I’d think they’d be willing to give a *little* just to stop the bleeding.

I've said that here before, I've had exactly the same experience with car dealers.

Hey, if you do eventually get one of these, I can tell you that you can moneyshift one at least 2 or 3 times and not hurt anything. I was at a weird not-a-time-trial time trial event yesterday and a guy made the ol' 2-1 upshift on the front straight at the local private racetrack (Pineview Run, awesome place by the way) and the car went into limp mode. He shut it off, started it back up and it was okay. He comes into the pits and starts going on about how the shifter in them is garbage and you can't tell what gear its in, blah, blah, blah, and that this has happened a couple times to him before at the Glen. And the other two guys racing FoRS both just kinda looked at him and shrugged and said "We've never had it happen." Apparently Ford built in a failsafe where if you do that, it pulls all the spark and valve timing out to try and save itself

In reply to NickD :

Sounds like money-over-sense ricer excuses to me. All of the Ford hot hatches have great shifter feel. Very guided and notchy but smooth, it's hard to miss a shift like that unless you drive it like a pissed off dump truck driver. Ford seems to have done a good job with the poke yoke on the ST twins and RS since they know turbos and brightly colored badges ultimately attract morons.

*disclaimer* I drive a '17 FiST and occasionally I am a moron.

In reply to Ram50Ron :

Oh I agree. And the way the other FoRS owners (one of which who has done approximately one billion autocrosses and track days in his) said "I haven't had that issue" came off more like "The shifter isn't garbage, you're garbage"

I've missed 6th a few times, but that's just getting used to a new car and having 7 gears to choose from.

Recently I did miss a shift from 2nd to 3rd on the track, but that was my own issue as I got flustered.  Once I regained composure, all was well for the rest of the event and lots of street miles since then.

I am installing shorter shift parts and solid bushings to reduce throw and improve feel, but it was perfectly fine IMO as long as you have any form of mechanical empathy.

Having driven a ton of E36 M3boxes in my life, any shifter with less than 200,000 miles feels glorious to me.

What's "rust and dust" in this context mean?