Most Moog hub assemblies are made by Iljin, a large OEM manufacturer from Korea. Maybe one of the biggest OEMs in this industry.
Most Moog hub assemblies are made by Iljin, a large OEM manufacturer from Korea. Maybe one of the biggest OEMs in this industry.
The most important thing about the unit bearings is this
KNOW THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THE AXLE NUT AND USE IT.
This is what sets the bearing preload. Not torquing it to spec is the fastest way to kill a bearing, cheap or expensive.
I've seen unit bearings come apart when the nut wasn't torqued tight enough, but on Jeeps, I've seen plenty live good, long lives when torqued to "I jumped on the ratchet a few times".
FWIW my Pops was a millwright at Uniroyal, FoMoCo, and then Kimberly Clark and Timken was the only brand used on any insane duty production machine.
I was having wheel bearing lifespan issues on my race car. It uses a late 80's size VW Golf bearing but at 190hp/145mph/Hoosier slicks/2Gs.
I replaced all four, but I removed the seals, washed out all the factory grease and replaced it with Redline CV2. End of problem.
Mod Edit: Thanks for reviving this 2 year old thread to plug your product. JW
If you take the numbers from the existing wheel bearing, or even just the exact dimensions, to a local industrial supply place they'll cross reference it. It'll give you a bunch of options that are usually cheaper than buying from a auto parts place.
The best price I could find was almost $100 per wheel for the horse trailer. A local bearing wholesaler charged me less for the entire trailer and they were Timken.
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