shelbyz
shelbyz New Reader
6/27/14 3:49 p.m.

I'm helping what I guess could be considered my SWMBO shop for her next vehicle. She's looking to replace an AWD 2008 Jeep Patroit that was handed down or loaned or something from her Dad. Her Dad apparently used this thing to frequently tow a supposedly not so small boat before handing it over. The thing is creeping up on 100k and the noises that eminate from it makes even the battle tested and tenured DSMer in me shudder. Combine that with the pre-bailout Chrysler awfulness, and any desire I have to lift its hood evaporates immediately. Luckily her Dad wants it back if she goes another route, so I don't have to worry about any pre sale or trade in work.

Because she can't seem to find insurance that isn't rediculously expensive, we've ruled out financing something that is newer. She's instead settled on getting something cheap that won't require a payment.

As much as I've tried to convince her to get something like a Prizrolla or an old EJ22 Subaru, she has her heart set on a 4x4 pickup or SUV.

She likes putzing around in my bare bones '94 3.9 Dakota that I use for chores, so I thought maybe a 4x4 Dakota would be a worthwhile candidate. In my slightly expanded search I found one that made my heart melt for some reason and I've warmed her to it. The problem is, I don't know if the price makes it a "good buy".

The details: 1996 Dakota SLT Club Cab 4x4 5.2 A/T 85k miles, completely loaded, and comes with a body matched cap. In photos, it looks VERY clean, except for a rusty chrome rear bumper, some minor interior wear and tear and a good sized patch of rot on the DS fender between the tire and bumper cover (which I think is common as mine has it).

Carfax confirms that it is an accident free one owner trade in. It also has many instances of maintenance and service performed at the dealership it was purchased from, and that it is has been driven very little in the past 3/4 years.

The dealer has it listed for $47XX. I've done all sorts of NADA/KBB checks that give me numbers anywhere from $4200-$5800 for "good to better condition" all based on the options that I can get from the ad/pictures. I've learned not to trust these, since I couldn't even get any inquiries for my Ion Redline that I recently sold when I listed it for a good bit under their "private party" values.

The price makes me feel slightly apprehensive. Carfax shows that the dealer has had it for over a month, and I'm sure people aren't lining up for an 18+ year old truck. I'm also pretty sure it wouldn't fetch anywhere near that price if she had to unload it for some unforeseen reason.

Anyone have an idea what a good and maybe "safe" price would be for this?

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
6/27/14 3:51 p.m.

From the description, that sounds a lot more like a $2500 truck to me.

Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy UberDork
6/27/14 4:02 p.m.

http://clearbook.truecar.com/ (no affiliation)

Though I agree with SF1, that is a $2500 truck here- newer trucks go for the same price, and they are usually fairly rust free down this way.

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/cto/4540785421.html

bigdaddylee82
bigdaddylee82 Dork
6/27/14 4:22 p.m.

Expand your search, time for a road trip! Go South young man, haven't you been told... err, get one of those cheaper less crusty examples like Brett_Murphy posted. Make it fun, find something fun to do on the way there & back.

I just did a whirlwind trip to get a unicorn of an XJ I had been on the hunt for, for way too long. I took my step mom with me, she's retired, and enjoys to knit and embroidery while riding in cars, had an enjoyable drive there, and we had walkie-talkies to stay in touch while she followed me way back.

After that, I'm am a full believer in finding exactly what you want and going to get it, road trip, fly-and-drive, etc. With today's technology, Craigslist, Autotrader, Cars,com, etc. there's no reason to settle on a rusty questionable rig, when you can find better examples and/or exactly what you want for the same or less money in other markets.

  • Lee
shelbyz
shelbyz New Reader
6/27/14 4:26 p.m.

I do somewhat agree. What stumped me, was that an identically set up 2001 was worth only a few hundred more according to KBB...

FWIW, I just paid $1700 for my '94 Dakota single cab 3.9 RWD truck that has no options, but had some (what I've recently discoved is half assed) rust repair and a (most likely Maaco) respray.

I feel like maybe $3500 would be a good ceiling, but I'm still not sure. She's trying to keep her "budget" at $4k or less.

Speaking of rust, the price really doesn't seem that bad when compared to a local search for TJ Wranglers and XJ Cherokees that she was initially interested in. As a female, she wants whatever she gets to still be somewhat presentable, which ruled out the Jeeps. Couldn't find one that didn't have obvious (and ugly) rust AND didn't have well over 150k for under $4k.

Fobroader
Fobroader Reader
6/27/14 4:32 p.m.

Id say anywhere south of $3K would be a good deal.

Vigo
Vigo PowerDork
6/27/14 9:16 p.m.

Having any rust on it at all would render that a <$2k truck down here, but if that kind of E36 M3 is considered 'normal' up there i agree your $3500 ceiling seems good.

Regardless of what it SHOULD be worth, the reality is that it is hard to find a clean 2g dakota anymore and if you want a clean AND cheap one it's probably not going to happen in any kind of hurry.

I drove my dad's 96 Dakota around for 10+ years and loved the thing. I still think they are one of the all-around best trucks EVER made.

Rob_Mopar
Rob_Mopar SuperDork
6/28/14 10:44 a.m.

I have a soft spot for the early Dakotas. I've had several and currently have three including my '96 I ordered new, plus my father-in-law still has his '96 he bought new as well.

In your area $3500-3800 should get you a really nice one. The early Daks have some advantages over the later ones. Like better ball joints and stone ax 318's. The later Daks ('97-up) & Durangos seem to rot faster than the earlier ones.

There are a few around here showing up as parts trucks with frame rot. Look at the upper control arm mounting points and the frame around the gas tank. Road salt likes to sit up in there. Usually eats though the brake line first.

The lower front fender in front of the tire where the fascia/air dam/chin spoiler attaches rust out there too. That isn't a biggie.

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