Is there attaching the crank pulley to the crank if I take the hand-crank-dog bolt out?
Is there attaching the crank pulley to the crank if I take the hand-crank-dog bolt out?
Answer to the above is "no". Nothing holds the crank pulley to the crank aside from the fan extension bolt. The fan extension acts as a harmonic dampener, so removing it accentuates the natural frequencies at 4200 and 6000 rpm.
Options:
Leave the fan extension on. Run a thin electric fan (real damn thin). Usable space ATM is about 14x9x3, fan extension reduces usable depth from 3 to 1".
Take the fan extension off.
2a. Replace fan extension with this. Run 14" electric fan of practically any depth.
2b. Replace fan extension with this guy 
Run 14" electic fan of practically any depth.
Option 2a is about $30 from Revington TR in the UK. 2b is $350 from Racetorations in UK. Damping seems to be the difference, as the Revington option is simply a bolt and washer to hold the crank pulley to the crank in the absence of the fan extension. They say on their site that they've been doing it that way for 30 years with no ill effects. The Racetorations unit is said to replace the damping effect of the fan extension in a more compact package.
I'd really rather not wind up with a broken crankshaft because I removed the dampener, but good lord, $350 before shipping and VAT for a crank pulley? If that's the answer, I'm buying a plastic fan from a tr6 and running it in the place of the standard fan and to hell with electric fans.
Thoughts?
No decision on the fan extension yet.
Yanked the radio and speakers out yesterday evening for better access to the dash wiring. Decided to pull the heater while I was at it (a family of mice made it their home for an unknown duration during its 27 year dormancy, and it was much worse for the wear). Plugged the resulting coolant openings and voila, added 20lbs of lightness and freed up lots of room behind the dash.
Wired up the fuel pump, with a toggle switch and inertia cutoff in line with the ignition this evening. Key on, toggle on, inertia reset, pump comes on; any other combination, no-go. Unfortunately, the "2-3psi" pump was too much for my 175CD's. Lots of leakage. Getting a pressure regulator tomorrow.
Made up a fiberglass radiator shroud, but I failed to consider the hood bracing. I'll have to scrap the one I've got and start over.
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