Which 2000s-2010s Mercedes are "reliable"?

eastsideTim said:

In reply to yupididit :

Any opinions on a non-AMG W211, like this E500?  300 HP should be way more than sufficient for what I am trying to do.

I'd be interested in that especially if it's been taken cared of. 

Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:

One other thing... more of a question.  It was 1998 when it went from Daimler-Benz to Daimler-Chrysler.  Possible that was the catalyst for the downward slope of things?

I think Lexus and Infiniti were the catalyst.

Aaron_King said:

I just came across this:

 

DAYTONAUTO 2003 MERCEDES BENZ CLK 500

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That's honestly probably the best answer to this question, they won't be perfect but they have the least amount of dumb things to go wrong.  A CLK55 of the same body style or a w203 C55 (expensive) would be similar.  Not that every other car they have made in those years is bad, but those at least avoid some of the worst issues the others have.

In reply to Tk8398 :

That specific one I'll pass on, looking for something that will mostly require just some maintenance, not diagnosing bigger issues like transmissions, but will keep them in mind in general.  I'm think E class would be a bit nicer for the drive out, though.

Use it for one event, then re-sell it?  https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/692855998704539/?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/265386812472611/

Because nothing is more luxurious than sleeping in the back of your Mercedes wagon on a road trip.

In reply to EvanB :

A wagon would be nice.  My preference would be RWD, but AWD seems to be more common.  Anyone know if the AWD system is okay, or problematic?

In reply to eastsideTim :

Stay rwd lol

eastsideTim said:

In reply to Tk8398 :

That specific one I'll pass on, looking for something that will mostly require just some maintenance, not diagnosing bigger issues like transmissions, but will keep them in mind in general.  I'm think E class would be a bit nicer for the drive out, though.

W211 E class has the awful SBC brake system (and often has air suspension) and the W211 all came with the 722.9 transmission that requires some very expensive service that isn't possible to DIY properly.

Tk8398 said:

eastsideTim said:

In reply to Tk8398 :

That specific one I'll pass on, looking for something that will mostly require just some maintenance, not diagnosing bigger issues like transmissions, but will keep them in mind in general.  I'm think E class would be a bit nicer for the drive out, though.

W211 E class has the awful SBC brake system (and often has air suspension) and the W211 all came with the 722.9 transmission that requires some very expensive service that isn't possible to DIY properly.

You've got me nervous now.  Are all Mercedes 7 speeds that transmission, because it sure seems like every one I look at in the 2003-up era is a 7 speed?

Tk8398 said:

eastsideTim said:

In reply to Tk8398 :

That specific one I'll pass on, looking for something that will mostly require just some maintenance, not diagnosing bigger issues like transmissions, but will keep them in mind in general.  I'm think E class would be a bit nicer for the drive out, though.

W211 E class has the awful SBC brake system (and often has air suspension) and the W211 all came with the 722.9 transmission that requires some very expensive service that isn't possible to DIY properly.

Not all W211/W219 have the SBC. The 07+ cars reverted to a more conventional system.  

The 722.9 service can be done at home, you just need a certain special tool to pump the fluid into the trans through the drain plug, at a certain temperature.  Any indy Mercedes shop can also do the service for a reasonable price.  

Source: owned an 07 CLS63 for 4 years and 60k miles, did every service but the trans myself.  

I've got one of those w211 E55 and the transmission works just as well as it did 120 miles ago when I bought it and all it's had done is fluid changes. The weakest part of this cars' drivetrain has been tires...

Sonic said:

Tk8398 said:

eastsideTim said:

In reply to Tk8398 :

That specific one I'll pass on, looking for something that will mostly require just some maintenance, not diagnosing bigger issues like transmissions, but will keep them in mind in general.  I'm think E class would be a bit nicer for the drive out, though.

W211 E class has the awful SBC brake system (and often has air suspension) and the W211 all came with the 722.9 transmission that requires some very expensive service that isn't possible to DIY properly.

Not all W211/W219 have the SBC. The 07+ cars reverted to a more conventional system.  

 

The 722.9 service can be done at home, you just need a certain special tool to pump the fluid into the trans through the drain plug, at a certain temperature.  Any indy Mercedes shop can also do the service for a reasonable price.  

Source: owned an 07 CLS63 for 4 years and 60k miles, did every service but the trans myself.  

Sounds like the same service for ZF and Aisin transmission I've done on VW, Porsche, and Audi cars. Pump in from the bottom (drain hole) with an adapter until full, run until the temperature reads the specification, pump more fliud until it comes out. A full set of "special tools" for a variety of transmissions was under $20 on Amazon:

The conductor plate is the big issue with the 722.9.  On the 722.6 you can change it yourself (it's ~200 or so), but on the 722.9 it's dealer only and $2k+ to have them install it because you have to have them program it.

My 2012 cls550 has been one of the most problem free cars I have had. Yes there are some things you just need to do that cost $$$ but nothing crazy. I get it inspected 2x a year by my local shop and we actively look for ware items that need attention.  The key to a good Mercedes is staying in front of maintenance.  If you are going used pay more for a service history and be less concerned about millage especially if it has been maintained. 

In reply to Tk8398 :

Thats why you always buy a bootleg Merceded SDS if you want to do DIY work. You dont need the dealer to reset anything. It's worth the investment.

yupididit said:

In reply to Tk8398 :

Thats why you always buy a bootleg Merceded SDS if you want to do DIY work. You dont need the dealer to reset anything. It's worth the investment.

Unless something has changed since I looked into it last, the bootleg SDS won't do it because it has to connect to an online service to program the new conductor plate and they don't even sell the new conductor plates to the public anyway.  You have a choice of a hack job repair with a used one or paying about the cost of a whole rebuilt 722.6 for the dealer to do it. 

In reply to Tk8398 :

They now sell the conductor plates and early valvebodies to independent shops. The hardest part is getting the TCU wiped which can be done by 3rd party venders. You just need SDS to get it married. Most issues have a way around having the Benz dealer doing all the work. I don't currently own any modern Mercedes right now but this specific issue I handled on my Aunt's E500 last summer. She hasn't had an issue since and it was the only issue that car has given her since she bought it brand new. I'm actually trying to buy one of her Benz because she has 3 and only drives the e500.

Also, the fuild and filter change isn't that big of a deal.  It has to be dead level and you need a pump to put the new fluid in and the right scan tool to watch the trans fluid temp.  It's annoying that they use aluminum bolts that have to be replaced, but you just pull the plug, drain it out, take off the pan, replace the filter, put the little tube on the drain hole, reinstall the pan with new bolts, pump in the exact amount of fluid, run it to temperature, then let the "excess" drain back out.

This is going to probably be a stupid question, but if you are filling through a tube in the drain hole, how do you get the fluid to stay once you have to remove the tube and install a plug?

In reply to eastsideTim :

The tube actually stays in place until you go to drain it.  It fits to the inside with the plug going up into it and you just drive around with it on there.

I know the Germans are good at rustproofing, but I am wondering how good.  This CLK 350 seems like a good deal, but the carfax say it spent most of its life in the NYC area then northern Ohio.  Then there's the potential for needing suspension work, assuming it was driven in the city mostly.

They weren't very good at rustproofing through the mid 2000s at least, not sure if it improved with later cars or not. I've seen quite a few around here looking like this. 

The V6 era C classes had rust issues.  I always saw them start to rust first where the side trim attaches to the front doors, in the middle of the door, usually on the top side of the trim.  I am thinking that they attach with through holes and they damaged the rustproofing on the assembly line.

I have not seen one with structural rust, just cosmetic like that one.  I assume that lack of mechanical sympathy by their third or fourth owners is why I don't see them on the road anymore.

In reply to EvanB :

Yikes

And since it's been suggested to look at some of the newer ones, how scary is the M278 twin turbo engine?  Or should I stick to looking at 2009-2010 NA V8s if I look at an E/CLK/whatever 500?  Also, any issues with the gas V6 models in general that I should be afraid of?  ~300 HP is more than sufficient for what I am looking to do.