Which open-element air cleaner?

Here are the rules:

Must fit on a quadrajet

Must be relatively inexpensive ($40 or less)

Must utilize a decent filter (no Edelbrock 1000s)

Must ship to Canada.

I know practically nothing about this subject, so I need your help!

On your mark, Get set, Go!

it's Nerf or nothing!

Here is the best!

http://www.carid.com/1967-chevy-malibu-air-intakes/aem-dryflow-air-filter-870720.html

Edit: slightly over budget, no slam dunk but give it a look anyway, it'll pay itself off in reuses.

Why do you want to suck in hot engine compartment air? What you need is cold air induction.

In reply to bravenrace:

I would go cold-air induction, but there's nowhere on the car to suck air from.

G_Body_Man wrote: In reply to bravenrace: I would go cold-air induction, but there's nowhere on the car to suck air from.

No way to get air from in front of the radiator at all? Even if you have no bumper ducts, air up front is just as cool, a lot of new cars have intakes that draw from there.

There has to be a place to get cool air. Cowl, core support, or under radiator perhaps. Is this for a G body?

In reply to GameboyRMH:

Not unless I do some crazy ducting. Besides, I don't want dryer ducting getting too hot.

In reply to Rad_Capz:

Yup, but a sedan. I could route ducting to under the filler panel.

I don't know about shipping to Canada, but Summit or Jeg's house brand is usually the lowest priced decent stuff for things like this.

Do you have a stock air cleaner on it now? The cheapest way (not the best) way to get an open element air cleaner is to flip the lid over on the stock unit. Like an open air cleaner, it's not going to make any more HP on a stock engine, but it will make a lot of noise.

In reply to bravenrace:

I don't have enough clearance to do a lid flip

Cut the lid just outside the filter, sorta looks like the cowl induction air cleaners. Alternate idea is to drill holes in the base of the air cleaner (outside the filter), on the underside if you want a bit of stealth.

In reply to 81cpcamaro:

Back to the Junkyard!

In reply to G_Body_Man:

Then space it up, or get a different cover. But in the end you will gain nothing but noise, and at least when hot will probably lose power.

In reply to bravenrace:

I'll probably run some dryer duct to the filler panel, then.

What ducting to the fender?

The diesel pickups used to route to the inside of the fender. If the bottom of your fenders are open then you may be able to get cold air with a short run of ducting.

In reply to jstand:

Unfortunately, they are sealed off by wheel well liners. But the ducting towards the headlight assembly/filler panel sounds good.

Looks like junk, but you did ask. And it is retro for extra points... Stack

Im not sure if my previous post was clear about where I was talking about running the intake tube to on the inside of the fender.

Here's a picture of where the truck route to, you can see the tube running to the inner panel of the fender to draw air between the skin and the supporting structure.

If you can tap into the inside panel of the fender you may be able to open the inside fender panel at the bottom of the fender to allow cool air down low.

Another option would be to cut into the firewall to draw air from the same plenum at the cowl that the heater uses for fresh air.

here is what i've done on several cars... made the housing by either riveting or using self tappers to add a second duct to a stock housing.. then i just jam the dryer hose wherever it will go to pick up cool air from the front of the car, sometimes zip tying it to the bottom of the radiator support and sometimes jamming it between the sides of the radiator and the radiator support:

i did some back to back to back to back testing with this and a few other different air cleaners (this setup, this setup with no ducting, stock unmolested single inlet air cleaner,and a 14X4 open element) over a half hour period at a 1/8 mile drag strip during a "fast and furious" street night and noticed no difference in et or trap speed on my 400ish hp Nova.. but since this setup rammed enough cool air into the carb to gain me 2 mpg over anything else, i used it. i got used to digging embedded bugs out of the stock replacement Wix paper element every couple of weeks- and had to throw one element away because a rather large dragonfly had speared itself all the way thru the element, which tells me that there was some serious ramming of air going on..

does it look like crap? yeah, kinda, i guess.. but it works.. and i don't think i ever had a problem with the ducting getting too hot.. but one other setup that may work on your car (i'll assume G body of some sort, based only on username) is the same air cleaner base i've got fed by a pair of air intake scoops off an 86-89 Caprice with a 350. one needs to be flipped over, but they screw down right to the top of the radiator support and get cool high pressure air from behind the grille. i can't find an image of what i'm talking about, but that was what i used on the very first car i ever made a dual snorkel air cleaner for bacxk in 1991: a 76 Monte Carlo with a 350 and 2.56 gears that somehow consistently got an honest 30mpg.

In reply to novaderrik:

This works well with the current direction of my car.

Another vote for a cheap shiny dryer hose solution.

is hood clearance an issue? if not then find any old stock GM 4-bbl air cleaner bottom ( like some that were posted above)cut off the sides, go to your local parts store and grab a STP SA3549 or equivalent ( 1983 Chevy C-10 305 v8 if you need an application, and it's the 5 1/2 " tall option) then go to WalMart and get a cheap-o pizza tray for like $2.00 to use as a top.

should look something like this..

I used a 3 1/2 inch option on this Camaro and it just barely clears the stock hood. Actually I had to trim some of the filter to gain some extra space under the hood.Total cost less than $20.

I would check out a drop in filter from K&N or SPECTRE from Summit or Jegs. Both can be cleaned and re oiled. Both are good quality.

If you can even run a single air scoop to the front end or to the cowl area to pick up cold air, will help (using your existing stock housing). I've used dryer ducting and also the flexi spouts that fit rain gutters for run off (they are heavy plastic) from a Lowes - Home Depot - Menards. You may have to get creative with zip ties and a drill. A roll of self adhesive insulation wrap will help keep the heat out.

Another old trick with an open element air cleaner, is to space up the back of the hood. Use longer bolts and a metal or wood wedge to lift the back of the hood up about an inch. It's a poor man's cowl induction. But if you are driving your car in the winter - it's not a good idea. Also, from living in Wisconsin before, sometimes carbs dislike open element air cleaners when it's below zero outside.

The dryer ducting made now, takes a lot more heat (because they have to meet fire codes).

I bet you can get a SPECTRE, air ducting tube, and insulation for close to you budget. Or get the insulation on your next paycheck.