why don't we have a protouring / streetfighter AWESOMENESS thread???

4cylndrfury wrote:

JohnInKansas wrote: In reply to bravenrace: I'd start watching NASCAR if they raced stock cars...

FTFYRUNSANDHIDESFLAMESUITON

I won't flame you. This is what they should do, or at least run stock cars in the sense they were in the 60's. They wouldn't have to have classic bodies (although running the new reproduction boies would be pretty cool!), but I've been saying for years that they need to use stock bodies, with the only mod being opening up the wheel wells for the larger tires. It would take away all the aero, the cars would slow down, and the racing would be better because they'd actually have to lift in the corners, separating the men from the boys, and there are lots of boys (and girls) in NASCAR. Now, back to you regularly scheduled Pro touring thread....

Those hammered pick-ups really look killer, how do they perform with so little weight in the rear?

We seem to have a ton of small trucks for sale around here, which makes a lowered and done up version all the more tempting, but we also have a ton of rain and heavy snow.

Is the rear end as light as it would seem? Can they be driven hard or are they best as drift and exhibition rides?

In anything other than perfect weather, my Mustang is only good from spinning circles . . .

Wondering?

T

TeamEvil wrote: Those hammered pick-ups really look killer, how do they perform with so little weight in the rear? Is the rear end as light as it would seem? Can they be driven hard or are they best as drift and exhibition rides?

Look up the C10 from No Limit Engineering called Hellboy. It is in the latest issue of Street Trucks. But to directly answer your question, if it can be moved, it will be. The aforementioned truck has the radiator in back against the tailgate. The gas tank is as big as it can get and bolted to the frame rails. I worry about the pendulum effect that can happen with that much weight so close to the very end, but I didn't build it.

I especially don't like the idea of a truck "looking like a truck."

If I buy a truck, I want it for things truck like. Like throwing stuff in the back, having some (not alot) of ground clearance.

Wally wrote:

Ranger50 wrote:

Phantom347 wrote: I'm guessing 255/60-15 or 275/60-15.

I'm guessing 275's. ... The frame on the other hand will get stress cracks around the steering box mounting holes trying to turn something that wide.

... On our street stocks we would take some thick walled tubing and make sleeves for the bolts to pass through. Drill the frame holes bigger, pass the tubing through and weld to both sides of the frame. ...

thread derail warning...

I've heard this is a problem on old chevy trucks in general. I was thinking about just boxing the frame in that area and putting the sleeves (bushings) in place. Sounds like maybe your experience, Wally, is that it works fine with just a bushing and there might be no need in boxing the chassis...

Interested in your thoughts (as I haven't even looked too closely and was just thinking preventive modifications).

Clem

The Green Brick still makes my pants fit funny.

poopshovel wrote: The Green Brick still makes my pants fit funny.

Try this on for size:

Pro Touring Mustang up on Ebay.

The copper colored Mustang - "Nasty" - that I posted earlier can be yours for a low low buy it now price of what I paid for my house!

93EXCivic wrote:

Needs some gold paint with a red stripe. And maybe a cougar riding shotgun.

In reply to Rob_Mopar:

http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46268

93EXCivic wrote:

That's not pro touring, that's a race car. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

bravenrace wrote:

93EXCivic wrote:

That's not pro touring, that's a race car. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

He is planning on making it street legal.

In reply to 93EXCivic:

Okay. I still wouldn't categorize it as pro touring, but I'm sure someone (and I know who) will pipe in to tell me I'm wrong, so I'll save him the trouble and say, yes, I'm wrong.

93EXCivic wrote: In reply to Rob_Mopar: http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46268

That's Pro-Bitchin'

I was digging this one pictured in that thread too:

Maybe I shouldn't have sold that Duster I had. Would have worked well in that guise.

Umm awesome

bravenrace wrote: In reply to 93EXCivic: Okay. I still wouldn't categorize it as pro touring, but I'm sure someone (and I know who) will pipe in to tell me I'm wrong, so I'll save him the trouble and say, yes, I'm wrong.

Yeah, as usual, you are wrong. Popular Hot Rodding, kind of the de facto PT magazine (hell they invented the term) has a project car you have obviously never heard of. 1975 Laguna S-3:

So yeah, a NASCAR-chassised 69 Chevelle is most certainly Pro Touring.

Here's my Streetfighter / Zombie attack bike

<img src="" />

My 79 firebird. Has plenty of go fast goodies. More street fighter than pro-touring. 403 olds/th350, pro-touring f-body competition suspension, roll bar, aluminum race seat, and schroth 6 point harness.

Not sure if I want to continue with the project. Have an offer to trade for a v8 swapped 86 s10 blazer on the table. I love me some square body. What say you?

the bird is a lot more unique and therefore badass

slantvaliant wrote:

poopshovel wrote: The Green Brick still makes my pants fit funny.

Try this on for size:

like

In reply to thunderzy:

Keep the Bird! swap in a 4,5,or 6 speed and tear it up out there!

ClemSparks wrote:

Wally wrote:

Ranger50 wrote:

Phantom347 wrote: I'm guessing 255/60-15 or 275/60-15.

I'm guessing 275's. ... The frame on the other hand will get stress cracks around the steering box mounting holes trying to turn something that wide.

... On our street stocks we would take some thick walled tubing and make sleeves for the bolts to pass through. Drill the frame holes bigger, pass the tubing through and weld to both sides of the frame. ...

thread derail warning... I've heard this is a problem on old chevy trucks in general. I was thinking about just boxing the frame in that area and putting the sleeves (bushings) in place. Sounds like maybe your experience, Wally, is that it works fine with just a bushing and there might be no need in boxing the chassis... Interested in your thoughts (as I haven't even looked too closely and was just thinking preventive modifications). Clem

I didn't realize the truck chassis weren't already boxed like the cars were. On the cars the sleaves have to be about 6-7 inches long to go through the chassis

midniteson wrote: In reply to thunderzy: Keep the Bird! swap in a 4,5,or 6 speed and tear it up out there!

Much easier said than done. The 403 olds never came with a manual from the factory in any car. I did the research on it yrs ago. But it's a lot more involved than most cars.