Ok, so i think i've got it....
Lambda reading never change no matter what fuel you use.... but when you calibrate a display for different fuels, what spits out on the display is what changes.
Ergo, wideband always reads 1.0 Lambda as stoich. If the M300 TE was calibrated for pump gas, it would spit out 14.7
If it was calibrated for E85, it would spit out 9.7.
BUUUT, the argument for displaying lambda is that there's really never a conversion necessary, it'll always display 1.0 as stoich.
Yes? I think i broke through a huge mental block today.
Based on your month an a half of thinking about it, at least we are pretty sure you are not jumping to conclusions....
alfadriver wrote:
Based on your month an a half of thinking about it, at least we are *pretty* sure you are not jumping to conclusions....
HAH!!!
Eh, it just bugs me when i don't understand things, so it just keeps circling around my brain until it makes sense, off and on.
Why something this simple took so long, i have no idea.
At least i can file this away for future use. I think the LC-1 in the MX6 is still going strong. (I think, i need to somehow test if it's accurate.) Says i'm running @ 12.8:1 at cruising speeds, yet somehow, i'm still getting upper 20mpgs.
If I may threadjack... let's say I wanted a simple little LCD display showing lambda or a calibrated a/f ratio, there are surface mount illuminated LCD displays for things like voltage, so I assume something could be done with one of those? I'd like to get a wideband setup for my motorcycle and don't want to cut holes in the dashboard and I'd like to be able to use the thing while riding so I can actually observe what is really going on with air/fuel ratios.
Does anyone know of such a kit, or could offer up ideas for a display? This seems perfect but I don't like the gauge depth issue with the included gauge;
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-standalone-gauge-kit-lc1-red-db-gauge-3796-p-152.html
This is what i use in the MX6.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16314&cat=0&page=4
It's pretty small, maybe a quarter inch thick?
In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:
Snap, volt meter & a/f ratio display, nice. I wonder how weather resistant it is. Thoughts on trying to surface mount it? Do I care about other sensors beyond the LC-1?
pres589 wrote:
In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:
Snap, volt meter & a/f ratio display, nice. I wonder how weather resistant it is. Thoughts on trying to surface mount it? Do I care about other sensors beyond the LC-1?
I flush-mounted mine in my sunroof control console... don't know how weather-proof it would be, but you could probably MAKE it weather proof pretty easily.
I guess i wouldn't care about any other sensors. They're cheap to replace.
I'm not a big fan of the LC-1 these days, personally, but it's not because of the sensor. The wiring job to install it and the relatively frequent calibration schedule doesn't seem like it should exist in the year 2011. There are many other choices that are far easier to install and don't require the calibration so often.
YMMV, of course.
EvanB
SuperDork
10/4/11 11:14 a.m.
Is there really a reason to have an external display?
I am going to be using Megasquirt on my MSM swap so when tuning it I can see the WB output on the computer. Do I really need a physical gauge in the car to monitor it?
EvanB wrote:
Is there really a reason to have an external display?
I am going to be using Megasquirt on my MSM swap so when tuning it I can see the WB output on the computer. Do I really need a physical gauge in the car to monitor it?
I only have mine for peace of mind. It's there so if i choose to glance up at it, i can. Handy if the car is running weird, i can look up there and potentially rule out one variable, or pinpoint it.
Short answer.... nah, don't need it.
In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:
The display says it works with the LC-1, LM-1, and LM-2. Any thoughts on which of those would be "best"?
I imagine I could start by sealing the unit up, I really don't want to put the thing in an Otter Box or similar but that'd be a pretty sure bet on weather resistance. It would also make switching between voltage and a/f a hassle.
Clay wrote:
Anybody know anything about this new one from Innovate? Sure looks easier to wire up than the LC1.
I got one of these, just can't find time to install it. Sure hope it works out okay.
pres589 wrote:
In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:
The display says it works with the LC-1, LM-1, and LM-2. Any thoughts on which of those would be "best"?
I imagine I could start by sealing the unit up, I really don't want to put the thing in an Otter Box or similar but that'd be a pretty sure bet on weather resistance. It would also make switching between voltage and a/f a hassle.
Unless i miss my guess, they all use somewhat generic Bosch sensors. The LC-1 would be more than sufficient for what you're doing.
LC-1 is supposed to be weatherpoof. Dunno. That's what they say. The bezzle does have a rubber o-ring, so some effort has been made to keep water out.
The LC-1, yes.... the AutoTimer display, doesn't look like the same provisions have been made.
In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:
After I posted that I wondered if I'd gotten confused again...
44Dwarf
SuperDork
7/23/12 2:33 p.m.
Okay....
I know way to did up old thread but it is the 1st one on the search.
Looking for inexpensive as possible wide band O2 unit so i can tune my race car via my PC and ECU..
What good theses days for the money? It need not be water proof but resistant would be nice if i do decide to leave it in for a race etc.
Thanks
44
44Dwarf wrote:
Okay....
I know way to did up old thread but it is the 1st one on the search.
Looking for inexpensive as possible wide band O2 unit so i can tune my race car via my PC and ECU..
What good theses days for the money? It need not be water proof but resistant would be nice if i do decide to leave it in for a race etc.
Thanks
44
I like the MTX-L these days. Can easily be found for under $200, is easy to install, and seems to be accurate with a good refresh rate.
m4ff3w
UltraDork
7/23/12 2:48 p.m.
Try:
http://www.14point7.com/SLC-DIY-2.php
Innovative LC-1 is the easiest. Provides a narrow band programmable output for use with stock ECU's as well as a full wideband output.
The output is programmable via serial cable, comes with logging software (that can do realtime display via PC) or a gauge can be purchased to monitor the solution.
The LC-1's control box is water proof, etc.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
Support a GRM'er and buy from DIY Auto Tune:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/wideband-o2-systems-c-23.html
turboswede wrote:
Innovative LC-1 is the easiest. Provides a narrow band programmable output for use with stock ECU's as well as a full wideband output.
The output is programmable via serial cable, comes with logging software (that can do realtime display via PC) or a gauge can be purchased to monitor the solution.
The LC-1's control box is water proof, etc.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
Support a GRM'er and buy from DIY Auto Tune:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/wideband-o2-systems-c-23.html
As someone who is currently running an LC-1 and has installed 2 or 3 MTX-Ls at this point.... the MTX-L is way easier, and has pretty much all the same capabilities.
The only thing is that i'm not really in love with the MTX-L's display.
Luckily, you can also buy it from DIYAutotune.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
The only thing is that i'm not really in love with the MTX-L's display.
For God's sake, record it!!!
Or at least for the safey of drivers and pedestrians around you, record it.
alfadriver wrote:
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:
The only thing is that i'm not really in love with the MTX-L's display.
For God's sake, record it!!!
Or at least for the safey of drivers and pedestrians around you, record it.
Well, right...
I'm saying the MTX-L's display is annoying and distracting. On the MTX-L, the display is built in with the controller, not like the LC-1 where the display is completely separate.
44Dwarf
SuperDork
7/23/12 6:16 p.m.
Well i don't realy want to see the display while driving or even log it just want it to dyno tune. I have to down and upload fuel maps so can't use it for live on the fly tuning ecu will not suport that etc.
I'll take advantage of this canoe bump to mention that we just put a really slick bluetooth enabled wideband from Performance Electronics in the MR2 Turbo