So the engine light is on in my 93 Civic. So simple enough I check the code by sticking a wire into the plug and watching flashes. It flashes one long flash and 9 short flashes. So 19. The thing is 19 is the code for the automatic transmission lockout control valve which is all well and good except this car is a manual. Any ideas?
Shot in the dark here. Neutral bypass switch? Some other M/T bypass switch?
I had to replace a blown C14 main power capacitor on my '92 D15B7 ECU (P06) last year, so it wouldn't surprise me if all of the EGs by now are running on some computers of suspect integrity. It had leaked and corroded out a trace below it, which finally kept the car from starting (with the fabled "CEL Zero"). Admittedly, the car had a history of other electrical problems which the PO blamed on a failing voltage regulator (blown radio, damaged speedometer, etc.)
About $7 in caps from Digi-Key and a little bit of patch wire for the broken trace did the trick. Did a P28 at the same time and it wasn't much further behind the P06 in terms of bad caps.
Might not be a bad idea to open up the ECU and see if there's electrolytic capacitor goo eating through your board too, although this would definitely be a very confusing way for this problem to manifest.
Also: sure it's not code 10 and code 9?
ssswitch said:I had to replace a blown C14 main power capacitor on my '92 D15B7 ECU (P06) last year, so it wouldn't surprise me if all of the EGs by now are running on some computers of suspect integrity. It had leaked and corroded out a trace below it, which finally kept the car from starting (with the fabled "CEL Zero"). Admittedly, the car had a history of other electrical problems which the PO blamed on a failing voltage regulator (blown radio, damaged speedometer, etc.)
About $7 in caps from Digi-Key and a little bit of patch wire for the broken trace did the trick. Did a P28 at the same time and it wasn't much further behind the P06 in terms of bad caps.
Might not be a bad idea to open up the ECU and see if there's electrolytic capacitor goo eating through your board too, although this would definitely be a very confusing way for this problem to manifest.
Also: sure it's not code 10 and code 9?
Yeah I had a P28 ECU go out like that. I threw a used on of eBay in. I have the old board laying around somewhere but I am not 100% sure where. I should repair it.
It doesn't seem like it is code 10 and code 9 but I am not 100% sure on that. I will film it and try to stick a video up tonight.
Sanity check: are you sure the used P28 board isn't from an automatic?
I have an auto P28 board in my pile and it looks identical to a manual P28 board but has a few extra transistors. It can be fixed, but I would assume that you would have experienced that CEL prior to this, though, if you had the wrong ECU in there.
I wouldn't think so but I will double check it. If I do have an auto P28, I'd assume I can basically ignore the engine code. Also thinking back I am pretty sure I replaced the caps prior to installing this ECU.
Well it is an automatic ECU but I have no idea why the engine code is only now coming on.
Pull out the soldering iron: https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/diy-how-convert-obd1-automatic-ecu-manual-2969571/
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