In reply to pigeon:
Interesting. On the threads OK but not on where the nut/stud contacts the wheel.
In reply to pigeon:
Interesting. On the threads OK but not on where the nut/stud contacts the wheel.
I learned the hard way when you buy a new dirt bike the FIRST thing you do is take the thing apart and ant seize every fastener. It's essential if you ever intend to disassemble it in the future.
The hard way was my 1980 TT250 Yamaha which I bought spankin' new and rode the crap out of. My cousin bought it, rode it a couple of years and then it started smoking, time for rings. The swingarm bolt went through the frame and the back of the engine, the spacer sleeve had rusted itself inside the engine cases. We were never able to get it apart. Since then, I use anti seize on ANYTHING that looks like it might get damp.
Appleseed wrote: Any way to get that crap off of skin?
Motor oil. No, seriously. Little oil takes it right off, then you can scrub the oil off with dish soap.
The only thing I use anti-seize on is spark plugs. They like to cold-weld in place on every Saturn I've ever owned, so I just put it on preemptively now.
Given NY's love of road salt I put it everywhere also. It's far better than having a seized compound
Twin_Cam wrote:Appleseed wrote: Any way to get that crap off of skin?Motor oil. No, seriously. Little oil takes it right off, then you can scrub the oil off with dish soap. The only thing I use anti-seize on is spark plugs. They like to cold-weld in place on every Saturn I've ever owned, so I just put it on preemptively now.
FYI some manufacturers claim that antiseize on sparkplug threads interferes with the grounding of the plugs
Continuing my last statement ... I am not saying not to use it on plugs, just that some folks who should know a lot about such things say that there is a problem with it. I have seen some recently designed sparkplugs that are not threaded all the way down to the end, supposedly to keep carbon deposits from clinging to the exposed bit of thread inside the combustion chamber. The theory, so I have been told, is that that little bit of carbon is very hard and damages the threads when you back the plug out.(the specific plug is made by NGK for Nissan for use in K series forklift engines ) . I still put a bit of antiseize on them
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