4th gen Camaros have a nice panel underhood, something like 7 fuses and 4 relays, with a non-watertight cover. i grabbed one from the JY and haven't used it for anything. i'll take some detailed pix this weekend and share them here. it might be a good solution for you.
Not that you don't know this, but you're going to have to figure out the routing for the wiring and the routed length to get this to work right with someone else building up the assembly. Roll of string can be useful for this. Also need to add a bit of extra length for serviceability and fudge factor (technical term). And you'll need a switched & fused power source, like a 50A relay providing battery power to this thing when the ignition is in the run position. Which isn't complicated at all, but something that probably will need to be added if it isn't there already.
Amazon has you covered. This is all of $59 Canadian dineros, so like $4 USd Many options under "automotive fuse relay panel" search.
It is pre-wired, so just add connectors and wire to suit.
Maybe toss the relays and blade fuses for something more reliable if you are not a fan of chinese quality.
OP has requested a solution that, per his first post, is complete "without me having to actually get the right crimping tools and pins, etc".
This is why I spoke to needing routed wire lengths to provide to whoever builds this thing for him.
I hate to say this as an EE but there's mechanical engineering requirements for this to work out well.
irish44j (Forum Supporter) said:And of course it has to be built well, since it's gonna get heavy vibration, dirt, water, etc lol. I don't much trust the ones on ebay or amazon, frankly.
I'd stay away from the random Alibaba ones being resold on Amazon as well. I'd go to someplace like DelCity: https://www.delcity.net/store/Fused-Power-Distribution/p_919221
I'm assuming that the lack of tools and pins has to do with connectors and fuses, not normal wire crimping. Otherwise you're looking at a complete harness.
I built this one 20 years ago using normal crimpers and widely available Weatherpak. I'd do it differently now (those spade connectors inside bother me) but I'm not sure I'd change the layout :) I'm not offering to build one, just giving an example of what can be done at the kitchen table by a 30 year old with unremarkable tools.
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:Not that you don't know this, but you're going to have to figure out the routing for the wiring and the routed length to get this to work right with someone else building up the assembly. Roll of string can be useful for this. Also need to add a bit of extra length for serviceability and fudge factor (technical term). And you'll need a switched & fused power source, like a 50A relay providing battery power to this thing when the ignition is in the run position. Which isn't complicated at all, but something that probably will need to be added if it isn't there already.
It's a competition rally car, so already has a master kill switch for all power (with a separate ignition switch off of that), plus a fusible link on the main power. In addition, two remote 12v ports direct from battery in the engine bay. Running wiring, etc isn't an issue.....really just wanting a good-quality box (the last one I tried to assemble didn't last very long).
In the end, I'll bit the bullet and do it myself if I can't get it from elsewhere. There was a box that would work out great for me, but it's backordered for like 200 days lol.
NOHOME said:Amazon has you covered. This is all of $59 Canadian dineros, so like $4 USd Many options under "automotive fuse relay panel" search.
It is pre-wired, so just add connectors and wire to suit.
Maybe toss the relays and blade fuses for something more reliable if you are not a fan of chinese quality.
my main concern there is the quality (and actual gauge) fo the wiring, as someone who has used plenty of Chinese electrical stuff and found it pretty hit-or-miss.
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:OP has requested a solution that, per his first post, is complete "without me having to actually get the right crimping tools and pins, etc".
This is why I spoke to needing routed wire lengths to provide to whoever builds this thing for him.
I hate to say this as an EE but there's mechanical engineering requirements for this to work out well.
Ideally the box would have Deutch connectors coming off of it and I'd run separate wires (with Deutch connectors) from teh accessories to the box. I do have plenty of those, and am competent at regular butt splices.
Keith Tanner said:irish44j (Forum Supporter) said:And of course it has to be built well, since it's gonna get heavy vibration, dirt, water, etc lol. I don't much trust the ones on ebay or amazon, frankly.
I'd stay away from the random Alibaba ones being resold on Amazon as well. I'd go to someplace like DelCity: https://www.delcity.net/store/Fused-Power-Distribution/p_919221
I'm assuming that the lack of tools and pins has to do with connectors and fuses, not normal wire crimping. Otherwise you're looking at a complete harness.
I built this one 20 years ago using normal crimpers and widely available Weatherpak. I'd do it differently now (those spade connectors inside bother me) but I'm not sure I'd change the layout :) I'm not offering to build one, just giving an example of what can be done at the kitchen table by a 30 year old with unremarkable tools.
basically how I have it currently, except not in the weatherpak.....I have a 4-gang of those same relays mounted in the engine bay and all the fuses are in-line. Building that is well within my capability, just looking into something less pieced-together (and/or something I can panel-mount inside the car for easier access, since the car has no interior and only half a dash).
It's funny though, I deleted this thread last night, figuring I was being a baby about this and I should just man up.....and apparently it didn't delete haha.
In reply to irish44j (Forum Supporter) :
You can't delete a thread, even if you started it. You only delete your initial post if you try.
Funny you should ask, I'm almost finished making one for the Rice Rod. Basically Keith's version except not in a box. I used splices to distribute the main power to individual fuses. The relay-controlled stuff is fused after the relay, so I could put multiple circuits on the same relay, but with individual fuses. The fuse blocks are Hella brand from the amazohn. The screw terminals are so I could remove the whole "brain" while keeping the harness in the car.
Mine was in a box because it's under the bonnet of an old Land Rover. Waterproofing was important :)
I would use better connectors and do a lot more labeling if I were building that box now.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
My jeep had a similar set up.
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