AWD, if that matters. Not sure what year, if that matters.
I have a (cute) friend that I may "assist" with DIYing the job in my garage. Anything I should know? Any worthwhile "while you're in there" sort of jobs?
AWD, if that matters. Not sure what year, if that matters.
I have a (cute) friend that I may "assist" with DIYing the job in my garage. Anything I should know? Any worthwhile "while you're in there" sort of jobs?
I did both front and rear on mine, no real issues at all. The rear pistons are not the "turn as you compress" kind, so that's nice.
I would recommend greasing the slides well, and perhaps buying new hardware as well, as the rears especially love to oxidize, and cause the pads to drag along the rotor surface. I believe I did end up replacing one rear caliper as it was seized.
The link above is just to show what hardware I'm talking about.
I don't know about the element, but every Honda I have done brake work on had these little countersunk Phillips head screws holding the rotor to the hub. They are a pain to get out and often have to be drilled out. So take along a drill and drill bits just in case.
then when you're re-installing/changing rotors, use those screws to hold the rotor in place as you install the pads .. then remove the screws ( save them for the next rotor change ) brakes work fine without the screws
Good call on the new hardware. I do remember hearing about the rear pads dragging on these things.
Do the hub-to-rotor screws present a challenge just because they like to corrode in place?
alex wrote: Good call on the new hardware. I do remember hearing about the rear pads dragging on these things. Do the hub-to-rotor screws present a challenge just because they like to corrode in place?
Yep.
Impact screwdriver will always get them out, though.
That was going to be my next question. I always love a chance to bust out my Snap-On impact driver, just cause I love the incongruity of removing a screw with a hammer.
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