In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
Can you build the pipe chase under that bigger? Then those floor joists would have studs under them, and you wouldn't have to sister a joist.
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
Can you build the pipe chase under that bigger? Then those floor joists would have studs under them, and you wouldn't have to sister a joist.
SV reX said:In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
Can you build the pipe chase under that bigger? Then those floor joists would have studs under them, and you would have to sister a joist.
I'm not quite sure what you mean.
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:Also, some people should not be allowed to touch saws...
I'll be sistering some support to that joist.
I wouldn't worry too much about the giant hole, the other bathroom wall is holding up that floor joist. You might want to continue removing the brick flue down below the 1st floor flooring to give you more room for your drains. What is the 2nd joist resting on? Is that a header touching the chimney flue?
Is there a basement?
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
Actually, I looked harder at your pics, and I don't think my idea would work. Carry on.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
The bathroom wall is holding up the left hand side, but not the right.
Sistering appears to be the best answer
Isn't that a half bath and the picture is taken from the interior wall doorway? Go ahead and add lumber to the joist although I don't know what depth the notch needs to be. Edit: Pipe Chase is supposed to say Pipe Soffit.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
I see your pipe chase. But doesn't he need to connect to the stack?
He does and I am suggesting he do it in the old brick chimney area to hide it in the wall. There is a horizontal elbow in the chimney space that then tees into the vertical plumbing stack. It seemed too hard to draw without using a pen and paper. (Edit: I modified my photo above.) By entering the sewer stack from below the floor joist, you can fill in the gaping hole in the joist.
Also, if you have to move the toilet out, only fir out the wall just behind it to give you the 12" sewer flange dimension you need. A little jog behind the toilet is fine to do.
I don't think I can reasonably remove the chimney from the first floor as like it bumps into the bathroom there, it similarly bumps into my living room on the other side.
The shower and tub drains will run underneath those joists because the half bath downstairs will get a drop ceiling.
I'm fairly sure I'll be able to make it all fit in the cavity given, that will be work for the morning. Brother in law stopped by and assisted in making sure the pipe didn't fall on me after I cut it. (Man that sawzall got HOT cutting through 4" cast iron.) Chatted with him for a good while then and didn't get much other work done.
Had a suggestion from another friend today as well, electrical is his hobby and he mentioned I should pipe up some EMT from basement to attic so I can add additional circuits to the attic if/when I finish it in the future. A straight shot can't happen, so I got some flex pipe that should do the job nicely.
VolvoHeretic said:Isn't that a half bath and the picture is taken from the interior wall doorway? Go ahead and add lumber to the joist although I don't know what depth the notch needs to be. Edit: Pipe Chase is supposed to say Pipe Soffit.
Yes, first floor half bath, picture taken from interior doorway.
VolvoHeretic said:AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:Also, some people should not be allowed to touch saws...
I'll be sistering some support to that joist.
I wouldn't worry too much about the giant hole, the other bathroom wall is holding up that floor joist. You might want to continue removing the brick flue down below the 1st floor flooring to give you more room for your drains. What is the 2nd joist resting on? Is that a header touching the chimney flue?
Is there a basement?
The joist right behind the drain stack there? It just attaches to that header? That spans between the joists to either side. No connection to the chimney.
Yes, there is a basement.
Thanks. I have to admit I am getting turned around looking at the photos. The new toilet is to the right side of the sewer stack? How do you plan on running from the toilet flange which will be in the room beyond the downstairs half bath over to the sewer stack?
VolvoHeretic said:Thanks. I have to admit I am getting turned around looking at the photos. The new toilet is to the right side of the sewer stack? How do you plan on running from the toilet flange which will be in the room beyond the downstairs half bath over to the sewer stack?
Correct, and no worries. Sparse pictures of an unfamiliar house would turn me around way more.
Perhaps I'll get a video walking around it all tomorrow so you can see what's going on. It would be good for documentation too.
Slow day, at least it felt that way. I started off by getting the old flooring pulled out, and vacuumed out the joist bays below of major debris. That was the most noticeable work completed.
Otherwise I've been working on the drains, and I do have it worked out pretty well now I think, but I dropped the lid/brush for the glue down into a wall cavity so I had to stop till I can get some in the morning.
I guess I got a good bit done, but I'm feeling like I'm behind. I thought I'd be farther along by now, but I'm also usually optimistic on time for this stuff. Just hoping I can have some function back before I go back to work Tuesday.
SV reX said:In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
That is a really lofty goal. I hope you make it, but I'm pretty sure I couldn't do it.
Hehe. Yeah, I read this the other day and knew you were right, didn't know just how right right though. :)
Video walk through, nothing fancy but it may help visualize what I have going on:
Finally made some progress.
Yesterday, I got more work on the drains done, then my wife's grandfather came over and helped me pull wire, and 3/4" pex up from the basement. We also put in a flex conduit from the basement to the attic for future needs while everything was accessible. Then we started leveling the floor joists, and got a supply run done. He left after that, but my brother in law showed up and helped me finish leveling the floor joists to prep for the subfloor.
This morning I ran my pex supplies to all the fixtures, then ran to Lowe's for a few more things before lunch. Brother in law joined me for the afternoon and we knocked a lot out.
Shower drain figured out. Subfloor laid. Shower/tub side wall leveled/flushed. Shower wall built. Finished up the vent pipes for the plumbing, as far as they'll be for the moment. I got electrical started running through the room, need a bit more wire to finish up. Figured out a lot of little placement things like shower niches, switches, etc.
We also figured out a spot to add a small electric wall heater. My wife's grandfather suggested it yesterday, but I didn't think we'd be able to squeeze it in anywhere, but we talked it out today and found a spot. My wife is very excited.
Unfortunately for you all, I've been moving so much today I haven't gotten many pictures. I just have this one and you can see the shower area is framed.
My brother in law is very helpful, and is planning to help me again tomorrow after church. His goal for us is to have drywall hung, which would be awesome. Fortunately, I'll be able to finally help him a bit soon as he is under contract on a house which will have plenty of work to be done to it as well. We have a good agreement on this type of thing in general, but I try to be fair to him. He said he offered to help me all this week, but I didn't want to take him away from paying/better paying work. Hopefully a big update tomorrow then, I have a another list of supplies to get, so I'm going to get in gear and get all that before church tomorrow so we're don't lose too much time after. Between lunch and a supply run I feel like the whole afternoon can be easily lost.
That looks really nice, well done!
I would hang friction fit fiber glass insulation in your ceiling joists by stringing electric fence wire under the joists wrapped around 1.25" drywall screws and pulling the insulation over the wire and into the joist space as shown below. Run all of the screws in but leave them down about a 1/4", string the wire, and then tighten the screws in flush. Use 2" less thickness insulation than what ever the depth of the joist is. 8" insulation in a 10" joist and so on so that you have an air gap between the insulation and the roof decking.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
Why does he need the wire? Drywall will hold it up.
VolvoHeretic said:
.. a LOT of really good help in this project. (SVRex too)
Nice progress.
In reply to SV reX :
So he can insulate the entire ceiling with cheap friction fit fiberglass before hand and then concentrate solely on hanging drywall. He can hang the fiberglass all alone by himself. Plus, everybody needs a lifetime supply of galvanized wire.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
The wires would take me as long to run as installing the drywall.
Different strokes...
In reply to SV reX :
Insulation has to be installed as if putting a baby to bed - no gaps or lumps. It's impossible to do with Kraft faced which sucks to install anyway and I don't know how you would stuff friction fit in every 4' after hanging one row of drywall. It's works wonderfully. You are only running the wire every 4 feet, so only 3 rows.
I can't tell but what size are the ceiling/roof joists on the flat ceiling? I noticed on the 2nd page that you have a roof overhang. Are the roof joist spaces ventilated to the outside threw the soffits? Could you take a photo showing between the ceiling joists at the top of the outside wall in the bathroom?
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:Also, some people should not be allowed to touch saws...
I'll be sistering some support to that joist.
I've seen E36 M3 exactly like this in our 170 year old farmhouse. Plumbers, I'm convinced, have completely zero understanding of structures. They only understand that hot goes on the left, cold goes on the right,and E36 M3 flows downhill.
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