In reply to VolvoHeretic :
It does need to be neatly installed, but it only has to stay put for a few minutes until the drywall is in place. We do it everyday with friction fit.
But like I said, different strokes.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
It does need to be neatly installed, but it only has to stay put for a few minutes until the drywall is in place. We do it everyday with friction fit.
But like I said, different strokes.
In reply to SV reX :
My luck, the friction would let go right while I'm trying to hold the drywall up with my head. 
Joists rest right on top of the brick. Soffit is wood, then on the outside has vinyls that was added somewhere along the way.
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
Thanks, that's great. It shows that every joist space is ventilated so you won't have any moisture buildup problems in the "attic" area. If those joists are 2x10s use 8" insulation, and if 2x8s use 6". Place the insulation out into the soffit area about a foot to keep frost from building up over the interior wall corners.
Now to decide whether or not to place plastic vapor barrier on the ceiling. I only know that Minnesota used to require it and North Dakota did not. Let the discussion begin. 
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
Ok, I'm in.
A partial vapor barrier doesn't do much. That being said, I always add them in places where they should be installed (even if I know it's just a small piece of a big pie). My thinking is that if every project in the home is done properly, the house gets better over time. In AWS' situation, he is doing a ceiling over a bath with plenty of humidity. Sure, why not.
If there is conditioned living space on the other side, then no. The insulation isn't part of the building envelope, it's just sound deadening.
Although I suspect it is barely one.. a kraft paper faced fiberglass batt has a vapor barrier. You don't want more than one vapor barrier - moisture that sneaks past can get trapped in between.
One would think that a couple coats of latex paint would make a good vapor barrier, but I guess not. Also strange that vapor barriers are common on exterior walls but frowned upon on ceilings.
VolvoHeretic said:In reply to SV reX :
My luck, the friction would let go right while I'm trying to hold the drywall up with my head.
I'd use one box of these and spread them out enough to keep the insulation in place if friction fit isn't doing the job.
In reply to No Time :
Back to my job today, so things will slow down on the bathroom unfortunately. I was hoping to be further along, but it is what it is. I did get a lot done over the weekend and yesterday with the holiday.
Sunday my brother in law helped out again. We got the ceiling insulated and drywall hung, and he helped me carry the rest of the drywall upstairs so I would easily be able to hang the walls on my own. I also finished routing my wiring before the ceiling drywall was hung. My buddy who is an electrical nerd stopped by and criticized a bit, but I don't mind. I learned a few things, and other things I could have done differently. It's all good though.
Yesterday I was working solo, but I was onto stuff that solo worked better for me. I got the exterior wall insulated with foam panels, it's not amazing, but the rest of the house exterior walls have nothing, so something is better than nothing. I also got the drywall hung on the walls. I was hoping to get them taped too, but I finished hanging pretty late.
Current view from the hall:
(Hall side is going to stay unfinished for a bit. Same with that side bedroom. Bathroom is the priority, I'll finished those in after.)
Looking into the room:
Tub/Window area:
View of the shower area:
You can also see here what I am calling my "control center" on the tub side of the shower wall. The box in the top middle will be for a sconce for the tub. The two single gang boxes are for the floor heat thermostat, and the wall heat thermostat. We decided to add a small electric wall heater for as needed supplemental heat, you can see the box cut into the side wall there. It might not get used much, but it was a pretty easy/cheap add to do while everything was open. Then the double gang box below is for the fan switch, and the sconce light switch. The main light switch will be... unique. I'll elaborate on that later.
Tonight I plan to assemble my linen cabinet as it arrived today, and get tape and a first coat of mud on the walls.
The rest of my to-do: Mostly in order, but maybe not the exact order.
Looking really good. That would have taken me a month.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
Thanks! It feels like it's been slow, but I have done a lot.
Planning on KILZ primer before paint. That's pretty much my standard anymore, seems especailly appropriate in a bathroom.
Got the linen cabinet assembled last night, and a bit of mudding done. Most of the corners are taped. My wife also started mudding screws, so the majority of them have a coat of mud. I like to do corners with "hot mud" so that they actually dry, so it takes a bit longer since I only mix one tray's worth at a time. More mudding still to go.
I only drywall and finish my own small projects. I like to use self sticking mesh tape applied before hand over every seam and then use Durabond 90 setting type joint compound that sets up in 90 minutes and doesn't really shrink much for the first coat. This lets you put on a second coat of regular mud the same day. The only problem is that the tape drys out and loses its stick so you have to buy new tape for every project. Durabond 90 is also hard to sand so you don't want to glob it on too thick.
Menards.com: SHEETROCK® Durabond® 90 Setting-Type Joint Compound - 25 lb
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
Yup, that's pretty much what I'm doing. My inside corners I use paper tape, my flat joints I haven't decided. There's a couple "wide" joints with a double seam that I'll use some FibaFuse 6" tape I have. That stuff seems to work really well, just it is fiberglass, so you have to be a little careful with the application.
Had a little bit of free time this afternoon so I cleaned up the trash pile. Only took 3 trips up the hill to my burn pile. :)
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:
Boy am I confused. I was under the impression that your house had a flat roof.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
That's kinda funny! No idea how you got that, but now you know! :)
For reference, the 2nd floor, right, middle window is the bathroom window. The bedroom that's also being affected is towards the front of the house.
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
It was the deep ceiling joists. What size are they?
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
To be honest I didn't measure, but I think the same as the floor, which was 2"x9.5".
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
That's what I was guessing. With the way your overhangs looked from inside the house, it almost looks like the house had a flat roof a one point that was later converted to a pitched roof. But then again, building styles seems to vary greatly from one area of the country to the next. You could probably map it out by following the ethnic makeup of the area.
Got any photos of the attic?
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
I can get some attic photos later, I'm pretty sure that structure is how the roof was originally though because the roof joists are the same type of build.
It is nice that the roof is semi recent, I'm thinking 10-15 years old, and when they replaced it they removed the two chimney's top couple layers and sheeted over it so I don't have unused chimneys poking through my roof.
Finished the first coat of mud/tape last night. As I took the picture for an update I saw a butt joint with no tape. lol
I haven't said a time goal because they never work out with drywall finishing, but finishing the drywall and paint is the current priority. If i have downtime between coats I have some water and electrical hookup work to do in the basement as well.
You're really burning through it! It's helping me build up motivation on converting a small bedroom to a master bath. It's been gutted for a while with a pocket door installed to join the two rooms when I lost steam.
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