Boom stick questions. Point me in the right direction.

In reply to dean1484 :

I primarily shoot 308, 5.56, and 9mm. I only load for 308, and it isn't for the savings. 

most powders are $50-60/lb, that'll get you 150-200 rounds depending on caliber, primers are 10c EACH, and normal bullets are .30-.50c. 
 

Definitely not for the savings. But, box bullets don't seem to really like my rifle. Even the expensive match stuff give me 1.5" groups at 100y. My hand loads share the same hole at that distance. Which has entertainingly caused my buddy to:

1- buy a 308, but much more expensive than mine because he's fairly competitive. 
2- shoot $3 bullets exclusively. 
3-frustratedly sell the 308, buy a more expensive 6.5cm, then trick it out with the entire speed catalog. 
4- sell the 6.5 and just go back to 5.56 because "big frame ARs just aren't accurate enough for me"

Meanwhile, I just keep running my PSA10 with a smile. 

My Marz H is very accurate. I can run 6.5cm or 308 with a barrel swap. It holds about a half MOA with the swap.   
 

I have two rifles in 7.5 Swiss that round is hard to find. I have a bunch of brass for it.  That is the primary one I am looking at.  I also have my M1 but I have it degassed to run regular 150g off the shelf 30-06. But if I was reloading I would probably try playing with that as well.   Non of these are really expensive rounds. 
 

Getting a little off track the MARZ H with the 6.5cm set up really likes the SIG 6.5cm with the 100 percent copper projectile. I am sub half MOA with it. Regular lead stuff it is 1 MOA or less.  

In reply to dean1484 :

My FIL has been buying 300wm with solid coppers. 150gr seems light for that cartridge, and he hasn't actually run any yet, but they are pretty cheap...

My 6.5CM load essentially duplicates the Hornady 140gr ELD Match load (which my rifle loves), and shoots just a bit better than factory.  It is about 1/2 the cost of factory ammo, but that doesn't account for the time (lots of it) spend loading.  If it wasn't a hobby, I'd probably just spend the extra $.75/rnd and buy factory.  Of course, I just finished up a jug of powder, so am now doing load workups again... 

Where handloading really pays off is 38/357, 44mag, 45 colt and 45 acp.  I can tailor the loads to what I want, and they are signficantly cheaper than equivalent factory ammo.

I also have a 6.5 Swede Mauser that I haven't started loading for, but have the dies... I don't expect to shoot it much, but I expect handloads to be superior to commercial ammo for this application.

15 yards with my Mete. I was a little rusty with the first three shots but dialed it in after that. I have a match next weekend so I figured I should at least toss a few down range today. 
 

Nice to see the young ones having safe and fun time shooting and all the reloading talk and target pics...

Decided to go with a Monstrum Tactical 4x Prism [new 2nd gen Ruckus (e) ] and the forward 2X magnifier on a upcoming inexpensive/budget 16" 5.56Nato upper build... Has the BDC chevron reticle and with the forward magnifier will be nice to go from 4x to 8x with a nicer reticle than your standard reddot or circle dot. Also want to test the 2X magnifier with the Primary Arms 5X SLX microprism (with the ACSS Mil reticle) on my AR10 build - 10x magnification in compact weight/size less than any LPVO... if works out will buy a second 2X magnifier for it.

Monstrum 2X forward magnifier

Finally built the 18" 5.56 NATO SPR upper, just need to test it out/adjust the gas whenever get time:

That old DPMS Billet upper receiver fits REALLY well on the PSA lower... so tight there is absolutely zero movement - feel like a single solid piece. That's main reason wanted to use it for a SPR build. Only real issue was how the Rainer Arms Select barrel feed ramps matched with the DPMS receiver... the feed ramps overhung the upper receiver just a bit and were really gouging/scratching up the bullets when testing feeding. Did some reshaping/polishing of the feed ramp to upper receiver mating area and got it way better. Still not perfect, but want to see how it shoots first. Also didn't get the exact barrel I ordered - got the 1:8 instead of 1:7... I know 1:8 will work and the Rainer Arms 1:8 barrels are well known for their decent precision so decided to just go with it since it seems the 1:7 not available any longer.

Definitely getting near precision rifle level weight, just the upper weighs ~8.5lbs... so with lower looking at an 11lb rifle setup unloaded/no mag.

Oh, and regarding the Arken SH4J 6-24x50 - I like it better than the Primary Arms Glx 4-16x50 am running on the Sig Cross. It's also less than half the price as well... Weight is only area it's noticeably worse, optically I think it's better (just a bit sharper and more resolution/less cloudy) - was able to cleanly see heat mirages compared to the Primary Arms GLx which was more blurred/cloudy in presentation.

So what is the deal with barrel twist?  I remember seeing someplace that was pushing barrels with extremely high twist rates.  It may have been something from CMMG?  Maybe in 300 blackout?   Is this all myth and legend or is there something to this?

In reply to dean1484 :

Also interested in this. I've read that high twist rates improve accuracy. I know the 8.6 blackout is something ridiculous like 1:3, but that is an odd case. Super heavy projectile going subsonic. 

For the SPR I only want to run heavy, high BC bullets for best long distance precision and wind bucking ability. Heavier & longer high BC bullets need more spin to properly stabilize. For 223/5.56 load using a 77 grain bullet the 1:8 twist works very well, but 1:7 is most ideal rate for 69 grains and up. A 1:8 twist rate has the best range of usable bullet weights for an AR: 55 to 77 grain is its sweet spot and down to 40grain/ up to 87 grain giving acceptable but not ideal performance.

https://www.ballisticadvantage.com/blog/ar-15-barrel-twist-rate-explained/

For my 300 Blackout I went 1:7 twist rate and 14.5" since I wanted it specifically setup for 200+ grain subsonic loads and maximum subsonic speed without going trans-sonic (16" barrel too much at the trans-sonic envelope.)

First Glock mod: aggressive grip from Handleit Grips

I've got small hands, and even without a back strap, the double stack Austrians are on the edge for me. A buddy recommended these and I'm pretty happy with how it came out. If it ends up too aggressive for practical use I'll likely go with hockey tape or similar. But I'll give this a few hundred rounds to settle before deciding. 
 

Very excited about the thumb pad for my support hand. Like a wannabe gas pedal. 

Nothing to add other than the title of this thread inspired me to throw a low bid on this local estate sale auction for pure novelty value, didn't lose by much.

Live

I like the brass net...

Shooting steel challenge?

No pics to show, but just went out with some buddies. Mostly 22 and 9, and almost everyone got to try the flintlock. 
 

Usual shooting buddy was running a new sig 365 with a compensator which was nice. My new grip worked as advertised, but may be a touch too aggressive. We'll see in time. 
Another buddy brought his Taurus 22 pistol which was surprisingly good. Much fun was had. Now I have to clean the BP stuff...

In reply to Rodan :

Yup

Probibly should clean the Mete. It has 1500 through it now since I last cleaned it.

I did OK out of six stages. I had one Mike, which I thought was pretty damn good. I was point shooting and I missed. 

Speaking of cleaning.... cleaned some handguns and my utility AR today.  I love suppressors, but they do make a mess of things, especially ARs.

Still have a bunch of stuff that needs cleaning... maybe tomorrow... LOL

This morning one of the guys brought out the heirloom 300 savage. At least three generations. Super neat. But I just looked up prices for that round and now I feel guilty for taking more than one shot. Hopefully we can find someone local to reload his brass because at $3/ea, I certainly wouldn't be using it often. 

Strange request:

Looking to 3d print a palm rest/shelf for a Fienwerkbau 2700. Can anyone find any files? I'm not having any luck. 

In reply to yupididit :

That's a pretty specialized corner of the shooting world...  Have you tried asking on some of the forums oriented towards ISSF shooting?

In reply to Rodan :

No cause I pretty much gave up on forums. Even try to avoid Mercedes forums when I can. 

Testing .22LR at the range yesterday.

CCI Standard Velocity has been my go-to .22 ammo for a few years now.  It's pretty accurate, functions all my semi-autos, and is very quiet through a suppressor.  That said, while it's very good through my Tikka, I consistently get a flyer every 10-15 shots.  I had heard good things about Norma Tac-22, so I picked up a brick, and another brick of Norma Match 22.  Tac-22 is a little cheaper than CCI SV, and Match is a little more expensive but still not into Eley or Lapua $$$.

Things got a little windy on me, but I'm impressed with the Match 22.  It's not going to replace the CCI SV, but I may buy a case to set aside for my Tikka in case I get back into match shooting.  Groups are 50 yds, 5 shots, no zero change.

In reply to Rodan :

I recently bought a brick of those Normas. I've been pleased so far, though the CCI stuff does stay a little tighter.