Boom stick questions. Point me in the right direction.

In reply to stroker :

A possibility I've considered. If I can sell my 5.56 I may do that. So far though, zero interest. 
But yes, eliminating compromises is ideal. Have a plinker for short stuff and fun, have a bench piece for stretching. 

I have a 10/22.  The basic of the basic wood stock etc.  I put an inexpensive (about $150 or so) sig green dot on it and it is extremely accurate at 100 yards.  I make smiley faces on my 8" steel plate target accurately.   I keep it zeroed at 100 as that is what my local range is but I would be confident out to 200 with it.  Something you are going to have to think about is subsonic ammo will greatly limit your effective range.   I was looking at some 770 FPS stuff and realized it probably would not cycle my 10/22.  This was confirmed by my friend / FFL who was selling it.  In his words, you have to use it in bolt action-type setups as it does not have the power to cycle most semi-autos.  It would also probably not have enough energy at 200 yards to be an effective critter control tool.  

How a gun looks and all the "go fast" parts like stocks and whatnot are no substitute for being a good shooter.  They may make it easier to shoot but with 22 I think it is more important to get a quality barrel and trigger.  Everything else is just nice to have but not mission-critical to shoot accurately.

My new delema.

I was offered a 21st tec Bellator in 338 Lapua Mag with a second setup for 308. THey want to trade it to me for my LMT Mars H that I have setup for 6.5CM using a 22-inch barrel and 308 with a 16" barrel.  Market value of the two is the same.  The person that wants to trade puts the value of the Belletor at 3K where as my LMT is now pushing 5K in terms of what I have in to it (2nd barrel etc)

The thing is I am not really interested in 338 Lapua Mag.  We are stepping in to the "big boy" rounds.  The felt recoil is more than 3x that of 308.  

Anyone ever shot a 21st tec Bellitor in 338 Lapua Mag?

Would you trade?   I am leaning against it as my LMT was something I researched and hunted out.  It fills a spot in my collection that the Bellator would not.  In fact the Bellator really does not take any real place in my collection.  It is just a really big accurate mag-fed bolt action.  I don't even have a place to shoot it to its full potential.   

In reply to dean1484 :

I've heard a lot of interesting things online about distance and 22. Hard to know what's good info, but some of it rings true. 
My case is specifically a manual action. Either bolt or lever, so cycling is a non-issue. Neither is critter control, as this is purely a range toy. 

Now, I've heard that the super long range guys use subs, because the worst destabilization occurs when crossing from super to subsonic speeds. I don't know details, and I have no experience nor do I have anyone I know that is an expert. Just something I've heard. 

To clarify, I know a good 10/22 would do everything I want. It's the Miata. I have no issues with them. Any combination of parts and accessories is doable, and relatively cheap. But I find that when I can afford to mag dump, as with 22, I tend to mag dump. It's fun. But after every session where I do, I end up a little frustrated with myself. It's wasteful and inefficient. That's why I'm sticking to manual action for the next project. 
I sold my marlin 60 which was my only 22. In my world, that is the most important spot in the safe, and now it is vacant. So I'll likely be filling it in the next week or two. 

In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :

Lever guns are fun, but basically plinkers.  Henry is as good as anything going for the price these days.  I prefer the older Winchesters, Marlins and Brownings, as they are a little prettier to my eye, but they are much more expensive these days.  None of them are going to be super accurate, and lever guns don't mix well with the kind of optics you'll want to be super accurate with a .22 at longer distances.

In a bolt gun, you can easily be very accurate out to 200yds, even with standard velocity ammo.  SV ammo is 1070fps, runs all my semi-autos, and is as quiet as any of the special 'subsonic' or 'suppressor' ammo through my guns with a suppressor.  And a .22 bolt gun with a suppressor and SV ammo is quieter than a pellet gun.  The Savage .22 bolts have a pretty good rep for accuracy and are dirt cheap.  I have both a Tikka T1X and CZ 457 in .22.  Both shoot under 1 MOA, and 3" steel at 200 yds is pretty easy once you know your drops.  If you think you might want to upgrade down the road, check to see what's available for whatever action you're looking at.  Some are much better supported than others for things like triggers, stocks, etc.  For me, a good adjustable stock is pretty important in a precision gun... if it doesn't fit, it's going to be hard to be consistent.

I've posted these before here, but it's on point for your question:

Tikka T1X

CZ457

In reply to dean1484 :

You know .338 Lapua is actually chambered for $5 bills, right?  

I think I'd stick with what you have.  Much more pleasant to shoot, and less than half the price per shot.

In reply to Rodan :

Ya there was that as well  LOL

I have a Henry Golden Boy in 357/38 special.  Fun to shoot.  Kind of a novelty rifle.  Glad I own it but it would most likely be one of the first I would sell if I had to get rid of anything. 

dean1484 said:

I have a Henry Golden Boy in 357/38 special.  Fun to shoot.  Kind of a novelty rifle.  Glad I own it but it would most likely be one of the first I would sell if I had to get rid of anything. 

I still would like one of the Uberti 1873 38/357 rifles. I think they are just beautiful with the case hardened receiver. Have absolutely zero use for it.... but it's beautiful. 

Savage B22s look good, especially in the Timber and Timberlite styles. Midway shows one with a carbon/stainless barrel, but I'm not sure it's worth $200 more than the steel barrel. 

In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :

I would skip the Savage and go Tikka T1X... and this is coming from a Savage lover. Savage rimfires are good but their weak point is their magazines and the bolt action is much more sloppy. Had the Savage 93R17 BTVSS a long while back which was a nice shooting rifle, but held back by the magazine. The Tikka T1X is a much better built, little better shooting rifle. Overall it's like comparing a Ruger to a Sig/HK pistol. Triggers are a wash between them, though I have yet to adjust the T1X trigger from factory. If you want to try out a T1X (in 17HMR) before deciding on something hit me up... more than happy to find some range time (even have a gravel pit I can shoot from any time close by...). Am near Colorado City, ~ 40 miles from St. George area.

The 93R17 BTVSS I had:

The T1X I currently have:

In reply to Vracer111 :

Great minds think alike... LOL

The KRG Bravo stock is really nice, and pretty reasonable in the big scheme of things.  Makes it easy to get a good fit.

If I were going to pick one, it would also be the T1X.  The CZ457 probably has a little better aftermarket support, but I do think the T1X is a better rifle, especially out of the box.  The Savage is a decent gun, but not in the same class.  When they were $199 it was one thing, but I don't think you can get one for that these days.

In reply to Vracer111 :

I may take you up on that offer. I'm not sure I want to have the budget for the T1X, but if I run one it may become a need. 

Is it worth waiting for a deal on a heavy barrel? Is there a noticeable difference over standard? I can see it mattering if I was running a lot of bullets and building up heat. 
 

Grabagun has synthetic stock cz457 for $440, or the 457 at-one varmint for $799.

3.5" more barrel, bull barrel, and wood adjustable stock. But $360 difference. 
 

I have a Vortex 2-7x crossfire 2 I plan to use. 

Personally, I would hold out for the Pro Varmint synthetic ($599), which unfortunately looks to be out of stock everywhere.  The AT-One stock didn't fit me at all... looks cool but terrible ergonomics and not enough adjustment to make it work.  You're far better off with the cheaper stock and change it to something that works if you want.

The light barrel synthetic stock is probably just fine if you're not going to get too wrapped up in precision shooting.  At least it's threaded so you can screw on a can if you want.

In reply to Rodan :

Heavy 16.5" over standard 20-24"

That would be my preference... my 457 with the 16" barrel is a lot less cumbersome than my T1X with the 24", and I don't think you get much benefit with the extra length in a .22LR.  Nothing wrong with the lighter, longer barrel, though...  it should still shoot great.

I'll have to make the rounds locally and see if I can find a heavy barrel 457 or T1X. Nobody I can find has anything available online right now. 

dean1484 said:

I have a Henry Golden Boy in 357/38 special.  Fun to shoot.  Kind of a novelty rifle.  Glad I own it but it would most likely be one of the first I would sell if I had to get rid of anything. 

I went to the local range this past weekend to shoot my AR.  Guy next to me had one of those lever .357/38's.   He loaded it with .357 Sig.  Apparently the rimless casings fit into the tubular magazine.  

He cranked his first round and it jammed really badly.  The range officer tried to un-jam it but couldn't get it done and told him he needed to go to a gunsmith.    Funny part is the guy says "I  have some .38's also".  We both said at the same time "that would have worked".

In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :

My 10/22 won't cycle, but it just needs to go back to Ruger for warranty work as it has to do with being a takedown model. 

I started off with a Marlin 60 I got from a coworker, changed it a bit to better fit/be more comfortable to shoot:

For .22LR I would go with shorter barrel, they don't need long barrels to have accuracy and compactness is always a nice thing. Plus a short bull barrel will be stiffer and good for long shooting sessions.

For a .17HMR, you want the speed and help with spin a 20" barrel @ 1:9 twist rate will give... so 16.5" 1:16 for a .22LR and 20" 1:9 for a .17HMR are pretty standard to go with.

Had a muzzle brake on the T1X before but changed it out for a HUXWRX flash hider QD to use with a 30 cal can. .17HMR is pretty rediculous to shoot through a large 30 cal can... so quiet with hearing protection on, hear the hit one steel more than the shot. Have actually not fired it yet without the suppressor attached... all zeroing and first shooting since swapping out muzzle device was done with can attached.

I will say the one rimfire I miss the most is the Sig 522 (and absolutely regret selling... that would be the ONE I'd want back.) That thing was a bunch of fun to shoot and ate any 22LR ammo with zero hiccups for thousands of rounds without cleaning. Also took some of the centerfire 556 upgrade parts. Of course it's been long discontinued and prices have gone up on them quite a bit...

Not Savage or Tikka boltgun accurate, but accurate enough and way too fun to empty a 25rd mag.

Yeah 22 is fun in any form. I want another plinker eventually. Likely a lever or 10/22 just because. But for right now with such tight space constraints I get to fill one empty slot in the safe. So what I want is a slow, methodical way to do something most folks think is probably rather silly. It's cheap to shoot, easy to get, and something about hearing that 22 is no good past 100y from so many people... not here, obvs. I'd rather do what some folks say can't be done (or at least not know why I'd even be interested) and spend an hour shooting 20 rounds of 22 than do the same with $1/ea .308, or $15 magazines of .223 as fast as the trigger will go. 
Still considering the Ruger because the parts are so cheap and spare mags are everywhere. Or the savage, because similar with a bit better quality/accuracy. 
But it would be very nice to get something nice and not just the best bargain. Cry once...

barefootcyborg5000 said:

But it would be very nice to get something nice and not just the best bargain. Cry once...

I have found with most things, but guns especially, that getting what you want in the first place is usually less expensive and far less disappointing than a few attempts at 'good enough'.  Cry once, indeed.

WRT to plinker .22s... I have a couple of 10-22s, and they're fun.  Huge aftermarket, so you can do just about anything you want with them.  My favorite, though, is the S&W M&P 15-22.  Takes milspec grips, stocks/braces, and trigger parts so you can 'clone' your favorite centerfire AR.   Mine have been very reliable with CCI SV, which is my go-to .22 ammo.