How to CLEAN my wood

No, not that wood
I'm starting a project on a radio built in 1946 (build threat coming....) and I want to know, what's the best way to CLEAN the mahogany finish? The wood is in good condition, so the first step is to remove 70+ years of dirt and fingerprints.
I started reading on the web and get either conflicting posts (use wax, don't use wax, do this, don't to that) or infomercials that I don't know if I can trust.
I know when I'm done I want to use tongue oil or similar to protect it, but what about the initial cleaning? Any ideas, what have you USED?

Now, I'm off to clean my wood.

Well, on unfinished, badly weathered teak I used a slightly acid hydrogen peroxide based cleaner and a stiff brush. That was on a sailboat.

All of which probably has NO bearing on your project, but you asked what I've USED.

I use 50/50 Linseed Oil & Mineral Spirits with a scotch-brite pad, steel wool if it's especially nasty.

I have restored many old and dirty hardwood rifle stocks and a few pieces of vintage furniture over the years with the following procedure. Using super fine (0000) steel wool with a small amount of boiled linseed oil applied to it, lightly polish the wood, wiping the cleaned areas frequently with a paper towel. This accomplishes both cleaning and refinishing in one step. If the surface is badly embedded with dirt or especially oil, you can do a pass with a solvent, but usually this is not necessary. Tung oil is fine too; I find BLO easier to work with. Note that some "tung oil finishes" aren't really tung oil at all, but modern hard finishes that will change the look of the surface.

This procedure is not ideal for projects where the desired end result is a highly-polished surface, but it will buff up to a nice shine. Avoid using much pressure, especially around corners and hard edges.

In reply to DrBoost:

Are you cleaning the WOOD, or cleaning the FINISH?

If the finish is in decent shape under the grime, then I'd use a furniture cleaner like Murphy's Oil Soap. Maybe some VERY fine steel wool (like 0000).

I wouldn't use wax at all. Wax is not a cleaner- it's a finish, a sealer. It seals the pores of the wood and prevents any finish from penetrating.

If the finish is shot under the grime, then you are not cleaning, you are refinishing. Sand down and start over.

SVreX wrote: In reply to DrBoost: Are you cleaning the WOOD, or cleaning the FINISH? If the finish is in decent shape under the grime, then I'd use a furniture cleaner like Murphy's Oil Soap. Maybe some VERY fine steel wool (like 0000). I wouldn't use wax at all. Wax is not a cleaner- it's a finish, a sealer. It seals the pores of the wood and prevents any finish from penetrating. If the finish is shot under the grime, then you are not cleaning, you are refinishing. Sand down and start over.

This.

Thanks for putting a fine point on it SVreX. I think I'm cleaning the finish, not the wood.
I'm not looking for a mirror-finish, just want to clean the finish (?) before protecting.
Will Murphy's protect it as well?
Sorry, totally new to this.

At that age, I suspect it's an oil finish, meaning it's embedded in the wood rather than sitting on top of it like a modern finish. Cleaning with Murphy's will give you a better idea of the condition of the wood and the finish, but in all likelihood you'll need to renew the oil finish. Sand and start over is true if it's a modern finish, but not really necessary for oil finishes.

In reply to 02Pilot:

You are correct.

DrBoost:

No, Murphy's is not a finish. Just a cleaner. Once you've got it clean, a coat of oil finish is easy to add.

Oil finishes are not known for that "mirror finish". They are deep and rich, but not a hard finish or a glossy finish.

I wouldn't put a hard finish that doesn't breath (like polyurethane) over an oil finish.

I had some friends that loved Formby's cleaner

So, if I use Murphy's or Formby's to clean it, what would you recommend to apply as a protectant? Tung oil, lemon oil, 10W-40?
By the way, here's the wood I'm dealing with

No cleaning has been done before these pics were taken.

We use Murphy's on wood surfaces in our house. Works really well.

I used to use Tung oil on my garage cabinets in California. I'm unsure of what it would do to that finish though.

Tung oil and boiled linseed oil are hardening oils, and as such are suited to finishing wood. Other stuff may make it look nice now, but it won't last. That wood looks perfect for the treatment I described; just be careful around the cuts and edges - you don't want to round those off. Try it on a hidden surface first if you want to practice.

02Pilot wrote: That wood looks perfect for the treatment I described;

So you mean Murphy's to clean it, and Tung or boiled Linseed oil after?

DrBoost wrote:

02Pilot wrote: That wood looks perfect for the treatment I described;

So you mean Murphy's to clean it, and Tung or boiled Linseed oil after?

That's what I'd do. Use a soft scrub brush with the Murphy's to get the embedded dirt out, especially around those cuts and any hardware.

02Pilot wrote:

DrBoost wrote:

02Pilot wrote: That wood looks perfect for the treatment I described;

So you mean Murphy's to clean it, and Tung or boiled Linseed oil after?

That's what I'd do. Use a soft scrub brush with the Murphy's to get the embedded dirt out, especially around those cuts and any hardware.

Thanks. This is part of a project, I'll post a build thread in a few weeks.

All these responses and not one

"In a vigorous up and down motion."

Or

"It's mine, I'll clean it a much as I want!"

Disappointed.

In reply to KyAllroad:

Lots of recommendations for tung (sp?!?!)

KyAllroad wrote: All these responses and not one "In a vigorous up and down motion." Or "It's mine, I'll clean it a much as I want!" Disappointed.

I didn't want to interrupt all the helpful replies, but I was thinking about something involving a giant block of soap and a hole saw if the traditional methods aren't strong enough

....and THAT is where I expected the thread to go.

White vinegar diluted with water is a great wood cleaner too! Use ½ cup vinegar to ½ gallon water. Wipe off when done. Do not let it air dry.

I find that air drying (esp. with some air movement from a fan or a breeze) after wiping dry is nice.

Oh wait, are we back to serious responses?

going back to serious responses. I would not use Linseed oil. As it is organic, it tends to darken with age.

Be super careful with water or cold drinks around that veneer ( a think slice of wood glued to some other wood). It won't take much to warp it.

I have always resorted to Johnson's floor wax/paste but never really mess with stuff that's in good shape just junk.