Learn me bicycle wheel repair..

I have a late 80's Bianchi road bike and I have 3-5 tubes replaced on the front wheel in the last year or two alone. It is the original front wheel. I have never had to replace any tubes on the back wheel. It is a newer wheel with upgraded gearing. I have a feeling that there is something with the front wheel that is causing the tubes to damage. Is this a case of just replacing the front wheel with another one? Also, the tires are 700x 23. Could I use any ordinary 700c front wheel as a replacement or is it more specific than that?

Have you tried a new tire on the front?
Checked the inside of the rim for burrs, spokes sticking through, etc?
Are you running enough air? (Pinch flats vs punctures)
Will give benefit of the doubt that it's not a riding style issue.

But yes, you should be able to use any 700c rim brake compatible wheel.

New tire was installed last year. I checked the rim this past Saturday when I blew a tube and installed new one. Nothing was sticking through and no burrs. I run 100 psi on both front and rear tires as recommended by bike shop.

EDIT: I guess I type too slowly, and/or am too wordy...

There's probably something sharp in your front wheel, or you have a damaged or missing rim strip.

That said, while 3-5 on the front only is a bit of a coincidence, over a couple of years, that doesn't sound insane. Just odd it's all been on the front.

Anyhow, moving along:

Step one; figure out what's giving you flats. If possible, the first thing you want to do is carefully remove the tube, keeping track of how it's oriented to the tire and wheel. Then you pump up the tube and find the leak, which in turn should give you a good idea of whether something came through the tire (glass, wire, etc) and punctured the tube, or whether it was done in by a defect in the wheel.

If you got a hint from the tube about where to start your search, great. In any case, the next step is to find the problem with the tire or wheel. If it was debris in the tire, there's a fair chance it's still there. Feel around the inside of the tire gently (so you don't cut yourself) with your fingertips. If you don't find the culprit in the tire, check the wheel for burrs, for spokes which protrude through the nipples, or anything else that might cut the tube. Is the rim strip in good shape, covering the spoke nipples, and sitting flat? I've even seen the hard plastic rim strips cut tubes themselves if they get bent so they have a sharp edge sticking up.

At that point, you've pretty much done what you can. Put it back together carefully (you know the trick of putting a little air in the tube so it holds its shape and is less likely to get pinched under the tire's bead, yes?)...

I can't imagine needing to replace the whole wheel over this, but any 700c "road" wheel should be fine. Your local bike shop should be able to set you up with something appropriate if it comes to that...

92dxman wrote: New tire was installed last year. I checked the rim this past Saturday when I blew a tube and installed new one. Nothing was sticking through and no burrs. I run 100 psi on both front and rear tires as recommended by bike shop.

"blew a tube"? Is it deflating suddenly? Are you blowing the tire off the rim? Is the hole in the tube a slit, or a pinhole, or an abraded area?

In my giant wall of text reply above, I'd reiterate the part about finding the hole in the tube as a marker of where the issue is...

Sorry; it's really frustrating having an issue like that which doesn't want to be found...

All of the tubes have deflated suddenly and after that, they won't hold air and I am unable to pump up the tire.

You can run a cotton ball around the inside of the tire and the rim to easily check for burrs. Also, if the rim tape is rubber or plastic, I'd suggest replacing it with cloth - far more resistant to just about everything, and stays in position better as well.

My thought is rim strip too.

Also, everything Ransom wrote. Immerse the dead tube in water and see where the bubbles come out as you pump it up.

Are you using a compressor or pump?

Do you have a spoke that is too tight?

92dxman wrote: All of the tubes have deflated suddenly and after that, they won't hold air and I am unable to pump up the tire.

Okay, so it sounds like you're getting a good-sized hole in the tube. The next step is to catch it "in the act" and make sure you keep track of what part of the rim and tire the hole winds up adjacent to. The culprit is there.

It seems less likely, but possibly worth mentioning: 23c tires can be a bear. Usually if you get one pinched under the bead you'll ruin it right when you pump it up, but I suppose it's possible that this could be your issue. If you don't put just enough air into the new tube to make it hold it's shape, it's really hard not to get some of the tube trapped under the tire; it's hard enough even if you do. I also try to avoid using tire levers to mount tires, though that's not always possible; it depends on how much of a "drop" the rim has in the center, and whether the tire's bead runs small... Using levers makes it easier to pinch the tube under the bead as you drop it onto the rim.

Man, this stuff should be so easy, but I don't seem to be able to keep the word counts down. Trying to cover all the angles...

Ah, one last thought here: I don't know if you have the old tubes, but if you do, compare where the holes are. If they're in the same location, the issue is probably with the rim (or possibly the tire if you always align your tire to the rim in the same way; I try to put the pressure markings next to the valve stem). If the holes are in random locations around the different tubes, it's less likely that it's a defect in your rim or tire, and more likely that you're damaging the tubes on installation (or being really unlucky with "normal" flats...)

Roadie for close to 40 years, worked many years as a bike mechanic.

This says rim strips all over. Punctures are relatively slow.

Go to your local bike shop and buy 2 rolls of cloth rim tape and 2 good inner tubes. Like Continental or Michelin. Thinner is better - it will conform around stuff better.

Back home, remove both tires and assuming they're not wire bead, turn them inside out, carefully inspect for debris. The cotton ball idea is great - we just used our fingers and paid w/ The Bike Mechanic's Badge: one continuous thin laceration perfectly in line across all 4 fingers of one hand. You may need fine tweezers to get a little speck of glass out. Look at the outside too - I had a bit of a thorn once that wasn't visible inside or out, but under load it would poke the tube eventually.

Tires are good? Now remove the old rim tape or strips, clean the valley of the rim, check for burrs at the rim joint and dress them if necessary. Wipe down w/ lacquer thinner, let dry, and apply new rim tape.

Now - and this is important - put just enough air in your new tubes that they hold their shape and ~generously~ coat them in talcum powder. Tubes used to come well talc'd, but not anymore. Also talc the rim valley and the inside of the tire.

In case you've never been shown, there's a right way to mount a bicycle tire:

Place one bead of the tire over the edge of the rim, and use your fingers to work it on. As it takes no additional time, put the tire label on the drive side of the bike at the valve stem hole. Now when you go to air your tires it's easy to find the valve stem.

Then stick the valve stem in the hole and work the tube into the body of the tire all the way around. Then, starting at the valve stem, move the tube over so it's in the valley of the rim.

Finally, starting at the valve stem - with the side of the wheel with the tire bead not yet mounted facing up, away from you - using both thumbs and working simultaneously away from the stem, work the tire bead over the edge of the rim. Some super-light race tires will require letting out the little bit of air in the tube before the final snap.

USE YOUR THUMBS ONLY! A bike mechanic will use a plastic tire lever to get a bead off, but never on.

The beads opposite where you're snapping the beads on will be down in the valley of the rim to give you slack.

Finally squeeze the beads together and wiggle to make sure the tube is free and centered in the valley and not pinched.

Air it up, ride your bike, and you won't get flats.

From my limited experience: The front tire on my wife's bike kept going flat and there were no obvious foreign objects. It ended up being a problem with the rim tape. One section was shifted just enough to expose part of a spoke hole and under pressure with a rider's weight it was enough to push some of the tube into the small gap. The edge of the spoke hole would put a tiny slit in the tube.

I say rim tape also.

motomoron wrote: Roadie for close to 40 years, worked many years as a bike mechanic. This says rim strips all over. Punctures are relatively slow. Go to your local bike shop and buy 2 rolls of cloth rim tape and 2 *good* inner tubes. Like Continental or Michelin. Thinner is better - it will conform around stuff better. Back home, remove both tires and assuming they're not wire bead, turn them inside out, carefully inspect for debris. The cotton ball idea is great - we just used our fingers and paid w/ The Bike Mechanic's Badge: one continuous thin laceration perfectly in line across all 4 fingers of one hand. You may need fine tweezers to get a little speck of glass out. Look at the outside too - I had a bit of a thorn once that wasn't visible inside or out, but under load it would poke the tube eventually. Tires are good? Now remove the old rim tape or strips, clean the valley of the rim, check for burrs at the rim joint and dress them if necessary. Wipe down w/ lacquer thinner, let dry, and apply new rim tape. Now - and this is important - put just enough air in your new tubes that they hold their shape and ~generously~ coat them in talcum powder. Tubes used to come well talc'd, but not anymore. Also talc the rim valley and the inside of the tire. In case you've never been shown, there's a right way to mount a bicycle tire: Place one bead of the tire over the edge of the rim, and use your fingers to work it on. As it takes no additional time, put the tire label on the drive side of the bike at the valve stem hole. Now when you go to air your tires it's easy to find the valve stem. Then stick the valve stem in the hole and work the tube into the body of the tire all the way around. Then, starting at the valve stem, move the tube over so it's in the valley of the rim. Finally, starting at the valve stem - with the side of the wheel with the tire bead not yet mounted facing up, away from you - using both thumbs and working simultaneously away from the stem, work the tire bead over the edge of the rim. Some super-light race tires will require letting out the little bit of air in the tube before the final snap. USE YOUR THUMBS ONLY! A bike mechanic will use a plastic tire lever to get a bead off, but never on. The beads opposite where you're snapping the beads on will be down in the valley of the rim to give you slack. Finally squeeze the beads together and wiggle to make sure the tube is free and centered in the valley and not pinched. Air it up, ride your bike, and you won't get flats.

Good info. Thanks!

I will look into the rim tape option. I took it in to a local bike shop during lunch today and they looked at the rim and found no burrs, nothing sticking out that would puncture the tube. The rim and tire were both in good shape. I had the tube replaced and the wheel is good to go. I will keep an eye on it.

looks like this has been very well covered... and I agree... rim strip

donalson wrote: looks like this has been very well covered... and I agree... rim strip

Yep. On a doublewall rim, make sure the rim strip/tape is covering each hole completely. 100psi makes a tube find the sharp edge of those holes with a quickness.

gamby wrote:

donalson wrote: looks like this has been very well covered... and I agree... rim strip

Yep. On a doublewall rim, make sure the rim strip/tape is covering each hole completely. 100psi makes a tube find the sharp edge of those holes with a quickness.

yup... I recently put some 32c tires on my 29er rims that have an offset spoke bed (to help even out the tension)... seems I pushed the rim tape off when I did that :-/... the offset spoke holes made it a bit more problematic... but that is all sorted out now...