ProDarwin wrote:
KyAllroad wrote:
The problem with a knee wall is that opening the door a foot or two will open up a big gap at the top.
Didn't think of that, good point.
Neither did i.
And the door wall is south facing. Directly in the sun all day....
Try insulating the doors as well?
Doors are already insulated. Also have very minimal amount of air leaks around them.
Had another idea about the vent.
Why couldn't i t into the dryer vent that is metal tube run along the ceiling in the shop? Use a y pipe, and no structure changes, door cutting, etc.
There has to be a reason its not a good idea....
Dusterbd13 wrote:
Had another idea about the vent.
Why couldn't i t into the dryer vent that is metal tube run along the ceiling in the shop? Use a y pipe, and no structure changes, door cutting, etc.
There has to be a reason its not a good idea....
So your dryer doesn't push lint down into your cooler?
Hmm.....
Lint. It would find a way to backfeed through the y pipe, wouldn't it.....
old_
HalfDork
6/14/17 10:03 p.m.
https://www.amazon.com/Fantech-9800000-RSK-4-Backdraft-Damper/dp/B000CDAFE6
Dusterbd13 wrote:
Hmm.....
Lint. It would find a way to backfeed through the y pipe, wouldn't it.....
pinchvalve wrote:
I wonder if there is a GRM solution here? If you pulled the A/C unit from a city bus or a roof unit from a large RV could you make it work?
I knew my ears were tingling for a reason. You knew I could think up something with duct tape and a used small block, right?
I can't come up with anything better than a cheap, mass-produced A/C unit. Cheap, effective, reliable.
But, a small turbine-powered compressor through about 10 recycled fridge condensers outside and the evap from three RV rooftop units should do the trick.
old_ wrote:
https://www.amazon.com/Fantech-9800000-RSK-4-Backdraft-Damper/dp/B000CDAFE6Dusterbd13 wrote:
Hmm.....
Lint. It would find a way to backfeed through the y pipe, wouldn't it.....
This seems perfect. Although I wonder if the ac unit would see it as a flow restriction.