The door switch on my Whirlpool microwave required some adjustment the other day and I managed to short something to something. (Arc came from door switch) Unit is now dead. Confirmed power at outlet and the little fuse inside is good. No power seems to be getting to the fuse though.
Any ideas before I call for repair? The house call is $99 and I really would rather spend the value of a new one fixing this one so I don't have to unmount it etc... Newer units at this price point don't have 4 speed fans and some other features this one does.
If you do a search on the model number you may be able to find a schematic online, that will help in troubleshooting.
Well there's your problem.....
Cooked the AC filter board. New one is around $35. My only guess as to why the board burned with out popping the fuse is that the power surge/short came in from the "back" instead of the input side.
JFW75
New Reader
2/2/25 2:22 a.m.
Be sure and discharge the transformer in it before digging any further. Those things have crazy high voltage in microwaves.
You mean the capacitor? I did that.
Its fixed!
Took 2 weeks for the board to get here, installed and unit powered up. Cool right? Lets test it. 10 seconds, open close door per screen and unit dies. Fuse is blown. What the? Start testing door switches and find one that seems faulty. OK remove it and...break the part it mounts to. Order more parts. They get delivered in a couple days...to not my house. Tracked the delivery and luckily there was an attached picture of it on my neighbors porch so I knew where to find it. Installed new parts and now the light flickers when you start it but at least the fuse doesn't blow. Youtube says door switches are fussy and the brackets tend to loosen and wear over time. Meter the switches again and the lower has too much resistance. Remove and reinstall as tight as I can. Everything works! Victory dinner of canned ravioli never tasted so good.
Microwaves have sort of become cheaply built items that aren't worth repairing. It's good to see someone buck that trend.
My 30 year old microwave is kept around for a backup as my new one routinely breaks. To overcome the three door switches, tow NC one NO they put strong springs in the latch return. This beats up the switches, I get about a year out of a set @ $10. Last time I changed them I put in a slightly lighter latch spring, time will tell.
If you unplug the beeper on mine the whole unit becomes inop, strange but good to know. If the beeper dies so does the rest, planned obsolescence? Why did I unplug it, everything beeps today, even my toaster as if the kachunk of the finished toast isn't enough of a signal.
Current unit is a built in, purchased as an only option during the covid appliance shortage, not cheap but makes up for it by being bad.
In reply to akylekoz :
Try a resistor instead of the beeper?
