cast iron door + sheet metal body = door gap that kills efficiency and heat output.
Already running the biggest gaskets available. Screwing the handle in another turn stops the door from locking at all. Half a turn might work, but you have to do it while running, and that requires changing a cotter pin.
But then you shut it off and it cools down to, you know, clean it, and the metal contracts again and changes everything.
wonder how far he drove on that tire? Spotted this today.
I was doing math as I was replacing this Volvo 245 blower motor. First one I did would have been 1982. The dealership sold 106 motors that year, and I would have done at least 25% of those.
The white fiberglass housings were last used on the 1980 models. The black plastic that replaced it is more flexible, which makes the outer half of the turbine housings easier to remove.
This one had the three legged motor, which first showed up in 1981, but only lasted til 1984 or so. There was a kit to adapt it to the original 1974-1980 housing.
I'm installing the 1985 version, which has a rubber tube from the motor out to the fresh air, to compensate for the basic design flaw. Some Swede made a lovely, compact, powerful heater, and then they put the motor on the hot side of the heater core. Oopsie. Made me a metric E36 M3 ton of flat rate money over the years, though.
And now you know way, way more than you care to about the history of 240 Volvo blower motors.
The orchids are going nuts again.
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