Random test of RX-7 knowledge

I know some of you guys have owned an RX-7 or three.  The one I have (1988 Turbo II) has a drivers door that is hard to close.  I've checked the weatherstripping, the latch, and all seems fine.  If I slam it, it will latch.  Otherwise, it catches the first click and won't fully close.  The alignment seems perfect.  I even loosened the latch on the jamb and pushed it slightly outboard.  There was very little adjustment there, if any. 

No impacts, no rust on the car, really.  Used to be fine, but has gotten gradually worse over the years.

Anybody else have a similar problem with these?  I doubt I can find a new latch mechanism.  Any way to adjust what I have?

I made it 20 years and 282,000 miles with my FC without having any issue with the doors latching.

Frame sag...hard landing and/or rust belt perhaps.

Can you apply some trace material (grease, chalk, etc.) to see exactly where contact is being made?

Hinge pins worn out. Replace pins and bushings.

Check to make sure the seals are in place, and lube them lightly with silicone to see if it makes an effect.

Also... you're checking the alignment at the latch.  When the door is half-latched, check the distance to closure at the top vs at the bottom.  If the top of the door is getting bent towards the car, that makes latching difficult.  This used to be a big problem with door mounted seatbelts when people would pull the belt to close the door.  It's also an issue for people who like to lean on open doors.  If the door is bent, doors are extremely easy to bend straight again.  Also easy to go a little too far and cause a wind leak.

Thanks for the replies so far!

This car has been driven very little in the 25 years I've owned it.  It has been garaged for that entire period and has virtually no rust anywhere.  It's not a "structural integrity" problem.  Hinges maybe?  But with just 105,000 miles, I'm thinking they're probably okay.  I will have another look at the weatherstripping and door alignment.  I'm leaning towards a plastic bit in the latch mechanism getting old and failing?

Properly adjusted doors should self latch with minimal effort.  I have never had a (running) FC but I've had the doors off of multiple FBs and with some patience in adjustment, you could let go of the door at halfway open and it would latch fully from its own inertia.

I don't think it's a latch issue if it closes easily with a push.  

Does slightly opening a window (or the other door or hatch) make any difference? My lowish (83k) mileage FD is hard to close because its all very... airtight? It sounds silly, but crack a window and it closes on the first try, repeatably. I don't know if maybe the body vents aren't flowing enough or the car is just that way.

Powar said:

Does slightly opening a window (or the other door or hatch) make any difference? My lowish (83k) mileage FD is hard to close because its all very... airtight? It sounds silly, but crack a window and it closes on the first try, repeatably. I don't know if maybe the body vents aren't flowing enough or the car is just that way.

Okay.  We have a winner!

"It sounds silly."  Yes, it does.  I read your post and figured, what the heck, I'll try it and see if it makes any difference.  I mean, I always thought that the resistance to closing was due to the rubber weatherstripping.  I pulled the hatch release and it clicked, but the hatch did not rise enough to get a finger under it.  So I closed the door and the air pressure popped the hatch enough to open it.  The hatch weatherstripping had adhered slightly and it took a bit of effort to raise the hatch. With the hatch open, I closed the door with about half the force I usually use, and it closed, fully latched.  I did it again, and again.  Works perfectly.

So, wow.  Yeah, that's pretty airtight.  Can't believe I am just now figuring that out.

Thanks!

That's wild!

I guess this means you have to leave the HVAC on fresh air, if that helps it.