truck caps?

Camper shells, whatever you wanna call them...

How do these things work? I'm looking at getting an old pickup (like maybe '60s - '70s) for general utility purposes, and one of those utilities would be hauling my tools around, as well as my guitar/band gear to and from gigs.

First of all, how are these things fitted? Is it a year/model deal, or just by bed measurements, or what? Will I have trouble fitting one to a pickup of this vintage?

Furthermore, is it silly to think I'll be able to secure a shell to the extent that I'll be reasonably comfortable with potentially thousands of dollars of stuff in the back while my back is turned? (I'm not opposed to modifying one with steel mesh on the windows, and/or auxiliary locks, if need be.)

If you really don't trust a cap, I say just toss a utility bed on the back.

Caps don't have much security.

For tools and musical instruments, a van would be more secure, even better if it had no windows.

For a truck of that vintage, you just need to measure the bed and get a cap the same size. All of the trucks back then had either short beds or long beds and all pretty much had the same dimensions. Newer trucks started using different sizes so a long bed Chevy cap wouldn't necessarily fit a long bed Ford.

I have one that I lock with kart stuff in it and I'm not concerned. Then again, we're usually in safe areas and there's not a big market for karts at pawn shops.

I would say that if you're worried about security, find one with no windows. If they can't see it, they don't know what's in there. You could have some fun and keep "Joe's Septic Tank Cleaning" signs on it to ensure nobody wants in it!!

I don't think they're that less secure than a van, though. If you can bust a camper shell window, you can bust a van window just as easy.....

-Rob

I like the septic service logo idea. Inspired. I will seriously do something like that.

Hey, speaking of caps, does anybody have a link to a homebrew garage hoist system for removal/storage? I'll have a garage for the first time in my life soon, and for those times when I'm hauling motorcycles, it would sure be convenient to be able to take the cap off without a helper, and keep it up and out of the way.

You've got two basic types: aluminum and fiberglass. The aluminum ones are very light and easy to remove but are generally pretty poor quality. The one I had on my Ranger had 2 failed welds on it. It would dent if the rain was heavy enough. Fiberglass ones are a 2 person R&I but far more secure. The guy who I bought the Ranger cap from actually hauled band equipment around in it. His solution was to double-tint all the windows to the point they couldn't be seen through from the outside. Not great for rear vision but better than no windows at all.

My '65 F100 bed accepted a cap from a early 1970s Chevy no problem. They were fairly standardized back then. When you get into the mid-90s beds started to suffer from the stylists more and things don't interchange as much. It's a pretty simple thing to measure the fit though.

Poorly mounted fiberglass ones may develop cracks in the corners above the rear window. Mounting is very simple: just some aluminum clamps (the ghetto way is C clamps but they intrude too much) and foam tape. The locks in the rear windows are usually pretty cheap and frequently fail but you can probably buy replacement handles. If possible, try to buy a brand name that is popular with sellers in your area so you can get parts. Usually a broken rear window can be replaced, but if the frame gets damaged you may be SOL as they are often unique to the topper.

Caps are fitted to the bed, which is identified usually by year and model of the vehicle. There is crossover between them.

All caps leak water. Some more than others, but they all leak water where they attach to the bed.

No cap is particularly secure. They are a deterrent to a casual thief only. Anything using two little wire rods to hold its door closed is not a serious security tool.

Most pre-1990's trucks were all relatively universal. They came in 6' or 8', and step side or regular side. The first truck that really broke that mold was the 1988 chevy, which was 4" narrower at the back. Since then they're all styled to each specific truck/brand/etc. Ford followed suit in 1997 when the F150 changed styles. The rear window bulged out a bit necessitating a little different cap.

The cap that I had on my 78 chevy crew cab came off a 76 Ford and it fit perfectly. Unfortunately the cap had been painted wintergreen and kelly green to match the F150, and my chevy was two tone brown. Ouch.

Aluminum caps (most of them anyway) are cleverly disguised foil take-out containers. One good punch and they're toast. Fiberglass looks good, costs more, but its durable. But, take a real look at the latches and windows and you can see that all it takes is one good yank on the hatch and its open. You can get them without glass, but your visibility is gone.

I'm looking for a utility topper, which is a cap that is a little more robust. Early ones were steel with fold-up side doors and much higher security locks. Later ones are either thick-gauge aluminum or steel. Expensive, but relatively secure. Here is my dream cap, but obviously for an F150 xcab short bed:

Its a Gemtop brand, and its steel. Very secure, and useful.

I had a contractors cap like the one above on my 88 F250 several years ago. I would estimate that it weighed over 700lbs. I later sold it and bought a new 2000 Chevy 3500 van and have been a van man ever since. Check with your insurance about what is covered in regards to a shell/ cap. I was only covered for things that were locked inside the cab only.

alex wrote: I like the septic service logo idea. Inspired. I will seriously do something like that. Hey, speaking of caps, does anybody have a link to a homebrew garage hoist system for removal/storage? I'll have a garage for the first time in my life soon, and for those times when I'm hauling motorcycles, it would sure be convenient to be able to take the cap off without a helper, and keep it up and out of the way.

i have a cheap ebay winch that would work for that

Nylon cord and a couple of small snatch blocks would work well. Even the heavier 'glass caps don't weigh more than 200#. The one on my Ranger, 'glass' , can easily be removed my my wife and me. And we're old and feeble. I prefer driving my truck without a cap, so will probably sell mine soon. Complete with bedliner, too.